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TR3A Hot When Idling


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I have a problem with my TR3A, it overheats.

 

Car electric cooling fan coming on very soon after stopping the car with the engine running, for example at traffic lights or manoeuvring into garage. At the TR international queuing at the entrance caused major problems. I believe it to be overheating as :

 

-Temp sender for electric gauge reading high temperature

-Temp sensor for electric fan on radiator return pipe (bottom pipe) senses high temp and turns fan on.

-Looses water.

-Runs roughly, perhaps fuel vaporisation.

 

I have tested:

-Thermostat which seems to open at correct temperature and correct movement (checked in pan on cooker with kitchen thermometer). Not a bellows thermostat, i.e. it is a standard Halfords 82 deg C item.

-The tap at the rear of the engine under the exhaust manifold when removed flows very fast so I do not believe that the block is silted up (I changed liners 10 years ago and since then it has had a good dose of anti freeze).

-The radiator has a thicker than standard copper core.

-It used to be no problem.

 

I richened the mixture 2 flats on each carb yesterday an I am not sure it made any difference as the evening was a lot cooler than the daytime problems which I have had before.

 

Any Ideas ????

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-Temp sender for electric gauge reading high temperature

-Temp sensor for electric fan on radiator return pipe (bottom pipe) senses high temp and turns fan on.

Problably it's the radiator then?

When the radiator is clogged, you can sometimes feel that it is colder in some area's. Normally, the radiator feels hot at the top and less hot at the bottom part, but when it is clogged there can be colder parts at the top too.

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John,

I have recently been through all this, My final solution was a new rad, although I thought mine was OK. see "Overheating" in this forum which may also provide some further clues/possible solutions.

Based on your symtems i would guess slipping fan belt and /or worn / duff water pump.

Does the fan bring the temp down when it kicks in?

Good luck

:cool:

Duncan

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Sorry I have no solution to offer only an addition.

My car runs slightly hotter since a rebuild. She runs at 90°C at the gauge. I have installed a new rad with high efficiency cores (at least that is what the ad from the supplier said) When the electric fan comes on, the temp. does not go down but also does not raise eighter. The temp of 90° does not worry me too much, altough it is on the high side I guess. The fact that the temp does not go down when the fan comes in, is a mistery to me. With the "old" engine and the original rad it did. Would you suggest that the waterpump is fault?

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Rudi, I think it's mainly the T°-gauge : I've recently replaced an old T° gauge by a new one with new sender : After starting, the old gauge raised very soon to about 70°C and did stay there, irrespective the weather, slow or fast driving, ..Probably  70° on the gauge could mean a real water T° between 50 and 90 degrees.

The new gauge seems to follow much better the real water T°.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I have now got the front off the car and the water pump off, the vanes look like new. About the only thing left is the radiator. This will be vigorously shaken when 1/2 full of water to try and dislodge anything which may be stuck inside.

 

The other thing I have to do is create a 'rim' around the electric fan to ensure that it pulls the air through the rad, this has always concerned me a little but it has been OK in the past.

 

Thank you all for your inputs, any more ideas ?

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We are all speaking about "hot". But what means hot or what is normal? Sure when the rad is coocking that is too hot, but which temp is ideal or acceptable? As said earlier mine is running 90°C at the new electrical gauge. The temp sender (in the bottom pipe) is coming in fast and long or stays on. I intend to fit one with a narrow band now. The temp is not going down (on the gauge) when the fan starts. Recently while queing in front of a traffic light, the temp raised over 90 without cooking. I forgot to mention that my new rad (with high efficienty cores acc the supplier) came with the starter hole  :angry: I intend to have it recored during the winter (or sell it as it is). My pacet fan is only 9 inch and I have made an alu rad duct. Anybody has any experience with multi blade water pump impellers?
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