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305 CMG - The TR2 rebuild continues


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I had a phone call from Worcester Classics today.  They've about finished spraying the bodyshell and a were looking at fitting the steering box to 305 CMG.

 

When they turned the wheel to the right, the wheels turned left, when they turned it to the left the wheels went right.

 

Some people may think I'm a clown, but it's a rumour!  So I don't need a clown's car.

 

Revington, who rebuilt the steering box, think they've fittted it with the wrong worm (I think) so are sending a courier to collect it and sort it.

 

Otherwise things are coming along nicely, and I'm aiming for a December Finish... scared of the fitting out and the wiring, but I guess I will cope with a bit of help from the usual suspects!

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Guest Lou Metelko

Installing the new wiring harness is probably the simpliest part of the restoration.  To make it easy, take the wiring schematic found in your service instruction manual to a printer and have it enlarged to about 2' X 3'.  Have the enlargement laminated and then glue to a heavy piece of cardboard.  Since it will be laminated you will be able to cross off items with a erasable grease pencil when completed.  The completed schematic is a real conversation starter when nailed to the garage wall!

 

When you receive the new wiring harness lay it out on the garage floor next to the car to get an idea of which branch goes where.  Be sure to coat bare wires and connectors with a dab of dielectric silicone compound (available at any electronics store) to stop voltage scatter and prevent corrosion.

 

Lou Metelko  -  been there with TS981L

Auburn, Indiana

USA

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MR TR2, hope u don't mind my tongue in cheek reply to your topic on the head liner!  My humour is often misunderstood!

 

OUt of interest, out "other" car (well.one of them) is often refered to as MR TWO... it's an MR2 you see, or maybe an MR S  where you are?

 

Lou,

 

Yea, I'm gonna be laying the loom out... what gets me is all the bits of wire that are NOT included.. and when I asked a "specialist" for them I got one piece of each colour with a bullet on it... LOL...

 

I have sourced a chroming company nearby that some of the other specialist's use... and they are going to do a chroming to the correct BS standard for me (and I'll quote that to them as I'm in Architecture)!

 

The brakes are being sorted at the moment, and I'm hoping to report 305 CMG's return home within the next couple of weeks!

 

Meanwhile I have now spoken to both the second and third owners... the third owner now living "down under" and having an OBE!

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Saw the car today... she's all mounted on her chassis and the windscreen is in place.  Feels strange that I didn't do this myself!  The brake calipers are also on, and the remaining body panels are sprayed up.  The paint guy at Worcester Classic Cars is not happy with something and the couple of minor points that Wendy and I picked up on our last visit are still to be attended to, but weI knew that before we went.

 

The new Stone Guards don't fit very well and are going to take some fettling.  This is about 50/50 between the shapew of the rear wings and the shape of the stonegueards!

 

Revingtons were very wuick sorting out the steering box problem, and that's all in and the wheels turn the way they you'd expect them to now!

 

I can't waiut to get her back home and start fitting out the interior and making those final connections that mean the engine will start.

 

Talking of Engine's starting, I won't be able todo that without a fuel tank... North Devon have still not sent me the one that I was suposed to get from them in with the price I've already paid.. I'll have to chase them!  

 

Also, I have the Low Port 4 branch manifold now, supplied by Jigsaw, made by Pheonix Exhausts.  Other Low Port Head TR2 owner's may be interested on how I get on with this as previously only converting to high port allowed a 4 branch exhaust manifold to be used... I'll let you all know, of course!

 

 

:blues:

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  • 2 weeks later...

clive

have you got any piccies?

bit of help with your stone guards - work the alluminium untill it becomes stiff (work hardened) - rub some hand soap over 1 side then heat it up with a blow torch from the other side untill the soap goes black - dunk in cold water - low and behold nice soft aluminium to play with!

 

had a cracking day at duxford with the other eastern groups on sunday - lots of other (20 odd) sidescreens to ogle at.

the only annoying thing with my 3a is the fit of the boot lid, i have never been happy with it but as the paintwork is nice i don't want to play with it. 'low and behold' looking round i found not 1 sidescreen boot lid with a really good fit?

chatting to some of the other owners one said 'why don't you go and look at TS2 and see what she is like'. i didn't realise she had been brought up for the day.

well, the boot fit was even worse than mine?

talking to the assembled gurus and illustrious leaders i gleaned that triumph were not renowned for their panel fitting skills and that basically they are all different - doors - bonnets - wings etc

made me feel much better and happier with my little '0ne off'.

have you any experience of the aluminium bonnet and boots that the racing guys use, these can obviously be 'worked' to a much greater extent?

regards

peter

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As Alec says, the boot lid was never a good fit.  If your boot lid fits like a modern car then it's not right.  I think that Concourse Entrants should loose points if anything on the car is better than the day it left the factory, and that includes paintwork, panelfit and trim!  I also think that they should get 100 points for every proven mile the car has done since it's last MOT test!  Get the impression I'm not into Concourse?

 

As for the question regarding Aluminium panels, I've not had any experience with them myself.  NDM will make you some, they'll use the same jigs as they use for the steel panels, so they should be as good a fit as their steel panels are.  There is usually a lot of "fettling" to do to get any of the new panels to fit an existing car.

 

:blues:

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