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Rear wing seal


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Thanks Neil,

so Indasa on all gaps between wings and body, then a seam sealer that can be painted over and then primer and paint.

Cheers,

Waldi

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This is a 3M strip caulk, applied before the wings were hung.  The wing flanges compress it to a very good seal.  The excess sealer that is extruded out of the joint is then removed, and the remaining sealer tooled to just below the surface.  The sealer does not harden.

DSC04620a.JPG

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1 hour ago, ed_h said:

This is a 3M strip caulk, applied before the wings were hung.  The wing flanges compress it to a very good seal.  The excess sealer that is extruded out of the joint is then removed, and the remaining sealer tooled to just below the surface.  The sealer does not harden.

DSC04620a.JPG

What happened to the joint between the rear quarter an rear deck?

e.g.

IMG_1236.thumb.JPG.cd49c09f498b947e71a8eb4767a22076.JPG

 

Cheers, Andrew

Edited by Andrew Smith
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14 hours ago, ntc said:

Waldi

Use Indasa on the main parts of the join leave a small gap near the outside and finish with seam sealer and paint. 

I wouldnt. that will crack the paint eventually.

Stuart.

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Thank you all for the replies. So there are mixed opinions / approaches.

The bodyshop has recommended a flexible sealant and painting over that in body color. Will discuss this again, especially the risk of cracking.

I plan to seal the front wing to bulkhead seam too, to stop water ingress in that area.

 

Any suggestions /experiences are welcomed.

Thanks again,

Waldi

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1 hour ago, Waldi said:

Thank you all for the replies. So there are mixed opinions / approaches.

The bodyshop has recommended a flexible sealant and painting over that in body color. Will discuss this again, especially the risk of cracking.

I plan to seal the front wing to bulkhead seam too, to stop water ingress in that area.

 

Any suggestions /experiences are welcomed.

Thanks again,

Waldi

The non setting screen sealer used during assembly and then smoothed out but not overpainted is the only way to guarantee no paint cracking as the shells do move around no matter how well built hence why Triumph originally used the stainless beading to cover the joins on earlier models and even used them on the first year of 6 production for the deck sides, they were only deleted when the bean counters got their way.

Stuart.

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Waldi

I think Stuart is right in fact I am sure he is. Seam sealer was used on my TR6 by previous owner and then painted over.  It's cracked and annoying as your eye goes straight to it.  What do you do now?.

Roger

 

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55 minutes ago, Rogcastle said:

Waldi

I think Stuart is right in fact I am sure he is. Seam sealer was used on my TR6 by previous owner and then painted over.  It's cracked and annoying as your eye goes straight to it.  What do you do now?.

Roger

 

Either take the wing off and refit the whole thing with the non setting or dig out the seam sealer as far down as possible, have the seam repainted and then add the non setting after to the open seam.

Stuart.

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10 minutes ago, stuart said:

Either take the wing off and refit the whole thing with the non setting or dig out the seam sealer as far down as possible, have the seam repainted and then add the non setting after to the open seam.

Stuart.

That's exactly what I did with VUX's seams and it looks good.

Cheers, Andrew

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Stuart and Andrew

Thanks for you advice.  I think I will try the digging out method as the other wing attachment points have been nicely finished off. Not sure if I am going to have a problem matching the paint. It was painted in 2003 in Ford Purple Velvet  (Escort 1600E met colour)  I like it,  but both my sons said Dad you can't buy a TR6 in Purple!  You can't please everybody it would seem.

Roger

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1 hour ago, ntc said:

I will stick to what Racetorations told me and after 8years abuse still looks good over and out 

For the record, prosign K (over) is an invitation to transmit, Out (AR) means end of transmission, putting them together is illogical, you've watched way too many badly scripted films :-)

Ian (ex RN Comms)

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10 minutes ago, iani said:

For the record, prosign K (over) is an invitation to transmit, Out (AR) means end of transmission, putting them together is illogical, you've watched way too many badly scripted films :-)

Ian (ex RN Comms)

Yes, it you want to be smart - but virtually everyone with an Armed Forces background knows you can't be 'over and out'. However, civilians understandably don't know VP (Voice Procedure) - therefore the term is acceptable as most know in what context it's meant.

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54 minutes ago, Andrew Smith said:

Yes, it you want to be smart - but virtually everyone with an Armed Forces background knows you can't be 'over and out'. However, civilians understandably don't know VP (Voice Procedure) - therefore the term is acceptable as most know in what context it's meant.

Wasn't meant nastily Andrew, hence the smiley at the end.

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I once was familiar with the protocol, but now that’s all Over and Out!

 

Back to the panel seams: I will keep you all posted on the outcome, with pics once ready.

I went to the bodyshop this morning to install the door check straps, it is amazing what a real craftsman can do, it was a joy to watch him at work.

Cheers,

Waldi

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13 minutes ago, SeanF said:

Here's how I did it Waldi. Hope this helps.

20180904_162447.jpg

20180904_162453.jpg

You missed a bit down the back of the "B" post and round the three mounting bolt holes and down over the sill edge.

Stuart.

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10 minutes ago, stuart said:

You missed a bit down the back of the "B" post and round the three mounting bolt holes and down over the sill edge.

Stuart.

Hi Stuart. I actually did all of those bits too. Just hadn't done them when I took the photo.

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Thanks Sean,

I plan to wax-oil all gaps after the paint has been on the car for a while.

Isn’t it wonderful how people around the globe are restoring 50 year old cars simultaneously, ask themselves the same questions, and find help on the forum?

Had Dr. Livingstone had a forum back then...

Regards,

Waldi

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