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Rear wing seal


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Like that alot but thought it should be black ?

 

No early cars had them as plain stainless..

Stuart.

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So whats the answer?

I have a 71 cp car, do i use a beed or sealant

Next one, do i use sealant round the rest of of the panel where the it bolts to the inner tub?

 

Ian

 

For a 71 it should be the black non setting sealant and yes it should be used all the way round where the panel meets the body.

Stuart.

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Well, when I bought my 1969 CP car in July 1972 (registered Aug 1970) it didn't have beading!

The wings met the top deck with a butted joint, I can tell you as a then professional coach paint shop signwriter, that the paintwork on my car was all factory original!

The car was like new in every respect with only 16,000 miles on the clock, it even had it's original Dunlop SP Sport Radials on, I have no doubts at all that mine was all original, with NO BEADING!

 

I also had a friend who bought his Ochre TR6 brand new in 1971, it too didn't have that beading!

 

The biggest mistake restored cars I've seen have is they have allowed the sealant to go too high, so that the paint cracks along the joint!

Edited by Denis
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The biggest mistake restored cars I've seen have is they have allowed the sealant to go too high, so that the paint cracks along the joint!

 

 

Actually Denis, the biggest mistake is painting the sealant as paint will crack eventually. The bodywork should be sprayed before it's assembled so you get a nice clean black joint.

 

Cheers

 

Tony

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Ian,

The factory painted over the joints whether they had beading or not as the wings were bolted up when the shells went through the paint process. How do I know? I have many photographs of the TR6 shells on the body assembly lines. However as we all know a crack will form along the joint between rear wing and deck so not advised.

cheers

Derek

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Well, when I bought my 1969 CP car in July 1972 (registered Aug 1970) it didn't have beading!

The wings met the top deck with a butted joint, I can tell you as a then professional coach paint shop signwriter, that the paintwork on my car was all factory original!

The car was like new in every respect with only 16,000 miles on the clock, it even had it's original Dunlop SP Sport Radials on, I have no doubts at all that mine was all original, with NO BEADING!

 

I also had a friend who bought his Ochre TR6 brand new in 1971, it too didn't have that beading!

 

The biggest mistake restored cars I've seen have is they have allowed the sealant to go too high, so that the paint cracks along the joint!

 

 

Denis. All 1969 TR6's had the wing/rear deck bead fitted provided they were CP25+++ or TR's starting with CP 26+++ cars. The 1970 model CP5++++ series which your one would have been did not have any beading in this area. Bear in mind BL were making the 1970 model before 1969 had finished so more than likely your original car was one of these ones.

Kindest

Alan

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More confused than ever now,

My cars a cp54, i think, [thats what the vin no starts with]

Sounds like i can do what i want as there are lots of conflicting views.

Still like the chrome strip. can someone tell me where i can get it from as its not in the moss or rimmer catalogue

 

Thanks ian

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At this stage in the car's life, I'd use what I think is nice - the beading, in this case. Mine had the non setting sealer - painted over when I brought the car over to NZ by the monkeys who "sorted" it for compliance (this involved sand blasting everything, ripping out the interior, cutting the look and fuel lines in the rear of the car, painting it a slightly different colour and painting over the sealer which then cracked the paint. Oh, and charging me $5000 for the "work").

I sometimes think people do go a tad overboard on the originality thing - we're not talking about squillion Pound cars that were built in tiny numbers. As long as the modifications done are sympathetic, don't worry what other people think. If they're that concerned they can get their own car and build it to factory spec.

 

Hmmm...probably need more coffee - not good to begin ranting at this time of the morning :-)

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Denis. All 1969 TR6's had the wing/rear deck bead fitted provided they were CP25+++ or TR's starting with CP 26+++ cars. The 1970 model CP5++++ series which your one would have been did not have any beading in this area. Bear in mind BL were making the 1970 model before 1969 had finished so more than likely your original car was one of these ones.

Kindest

Alan

 

 

My car was built in Aug 1969 Commission No. CP26309 and had no beading when I bought it at 16,000 miles, as I said, it was like new! :)

 

I don't believe there was any really 'Quality Control' or Standardisation...this was a cheap production car, designed for export to earn Britain US Dollars...if there were no beads in the bin that day it simply didn't get them, is my guess! :rolleyes: especially if was a Friday! :D

 

Out of interest when I got my car it had green & yellow spirel water hoses, clear side markers with opaque yellow inserts and straight rubber hoses from throttle bodies to plenum...when did you last see any of those? So how far should we take originality when maintaining or restoring our cars? :wacko:

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Just out of interest, when after 17 years of being driven every day in all weathers, I had my car repainted and fitted with 4 new wings. I had a real battle with my car painter in 1988 who specialised in MGs and TRs. He insisted that my windscreen frame should be Black, and that none of them ever had surrounds coloured the same as the bodywork! I got my way in the end though! :P

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  • 8 years later...

Hi all,

my 1970 CP 5xxxxx TR6 is currently at the body shop, final color will be signal red (Triumph 32).

The wing edges (flanges) have been painted with the panelss off the car, and they are now bolted back on the car.

I have read several posts, but am not entirely sure what to do.

1) The rear wing to rear deck should have a black non-setting sealant, like Indasa. but should it be painted after the sealant is applied?

2) The rear wing to the rear Valance (behind the bumper), same approach?

3) The front whing to the front deck (near the A-post), same approach? 

4) The front wing to the front Valance, same approach?

5) I guess all sealed gaps shall be either painted or left black? What is recommended and what is Original for my car?

 Thanks,

Waldi

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2 hours ago, Waldi said:

Hi all,

my 1970 CP 5xxxxx TR6 is currently at the body shop, final color will be signal red (Triumph 32).

The wing edges (flanges) have been painted with the panelss off the car, and they are now bolted back on the car.

I have read several posts, but am not entirely sure what to do.

1) The rear wing to rear deck should have a black non-setting sealant, like Indasa. but should it be painted after the sealant is applied?

2) The rear wing to the rear Valance (behind the bumper), same approach?

3) The front whing to the front deck (near the A-post), same approach? 

4) The front wing to the front Valance, same approach?

5) I guess all sealed gaps shall be either painted or left black? What is recommended and what is Original for my car?

 Thanks,

Waldi

Waldi

Use Indasa on the main parts of the join leave a small gap near the outside and finish with seam sealer and paint. 

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