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Leaf Springs care off.


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The following is from the Instruction Book for the TR3, sixth edition.

 

REAR ROAD SPRINGS

 

 

Paint over the spring blades with old rear axle or engine oil, particularly

 

 

around the blade tips and clips. Avoid lubricating the rubber bushes which

 

 

are fitted in all the rear spring eyes.

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Have a look at this (scroll down, then LH corner): http://mike.british-....de/Silikon.htm and here (bottom of the page): http://www.scparts.c...arch-342655.htm

 

I don't know if it works, but the guy produced pretty good products. Shame he uses SCParts for selling the stuff...

 

Menno

Edited by Menno van Rij
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Good stuff Denso tape, and you can buy it expensively from the fancy restoration suppliers or look on eBay and find it for about 1/3 the price - cheaper than our local plumbers merchant.

 

Cheers,

 

Alec

 

 

We used to use it in large quantities when I worked in construction and I have used it before casting pipes into concrete floors but as I said earlier wear disposable gloves (and old clothes) when you use it because it is basically bandage impregnated with generous amounts of incredibly sticky grease.

 

Rgds Ian

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Raymond is ON the money here, he is preventing contamination but preserving the action of the springs, by allowing the natural friction they were designed for to be maintained.

 

Denso is also THE stuff to put between your wings and inner wing tops.

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Interesting thread. I've seen many leaf springs lubricated and wrapped over the years and I'm always inclined to give them a spray with oil myself. However, I think Peters on the money, as I clearly remember from my apprentice years and a stint in the MT section of the armed forces that leaf springs should never be lubricated as it effects the inherrent self damping.

 

dazzer

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  • 1 year later...

In the case where you have new rear springs, is it necessary/desirable to transfer over the passenger side lowing "shims" to the new springs or is that something you would only do for originality ?. The new springs came without these lowering leaves..

 

Stan

Edited by foster461
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Rather depends on the "Set" of the new springs, you may find that when fitted the ride height is the same. The new ones are universal usually.

Stuart

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In 2000, with 130,000 miles on my original springs from when I bought my 1958 TR3A brand new, the leaf spring on the rear RHS broke. I was on my way home from a 7250-mile trip to Portland Oregon and back when it happened - 7 miles from home. I had never lubricated the leaves or the spaces between them. From 1959 to 1965, I rallied my TR extensively on loose gravel roads. When I took the both rear springs off to replace them, the leaves were about 50% worn through where the tips of one leaf had literally "sanded" away half the thickness. Two of the leaves had broken earlier as revealed by the rusty appearance where the breaks had occurred. This, I concluded had happened quite a few miles earlier because the RHS rear seemed to slosh around on twisty roads. The two remaining leaves which finally broke in 2000 showed clean silvery shiny crystal structure along the breaks.

 

I have driven another 60,000 miles on these new springs with no issues.

 

As per Bill Piggott's book, the extra spacer when onto early TR3As and where only on the TR3As up until they were deleted about TS 50,000.

 

My original springs shown in this 1990 photo are the ones that came with my TR3A when new. The new springs in 2000 did not have the spacer plate for the RHS so I transfered this from the broken spring to the new spring.

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Rather depends on the "Set" of the new springs, you may find that when fitted the ride height is the same. The new ones are universal usually.

Stuart

 

The new spring are not handed (TRF, same part number for both sides) so they are both identical. I understood the purpose was to lower the passenger side so that when the car was occupied by just the driver it would sit level so if that is the case would that not suggest that with universal springs the passenger side should have the extra spacers retrofitted ?

 

Stan

Edited by foster461
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If the new springs are the same tension as original then yes fit the spacers, if they are uprated for whatever reason then the weight of the driver may not be enough to overcome the difference. I suppose it would also make a difference if you are going to be riding on your own all the time.

Stuart.

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I have never understood why they did this "one-side lower" thing. 4s do it too.

 

The rear-spring rate is 128lb/in. I suppose the front will be similar or stiffer.

 

At a guess about 30% of the drivers weight will wind up on one rear spring. This means less than 1/2in lower on one side if both springs were the same.

 

And of course its wrong with a passenger.

 

Al.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I notice RTR has discontinued stainless steel spring front eye pins 106231SS and suggests 106231, the original standard items.

They probably discovered what I said 10 years ago about stainless front eye spring pins - they are not hardened and bend.

 

Use the UK made EN16T hardened and chemically blacked items as per original. If you are having trouble getting them send me a PM.

 

Cheers

Peter W

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Update to the spacer topic.. it turns out the new spring leaves are a little thicker than the originals and even though the bolt holding them together is the same length as the bolt on the original springs there is not sufficient room to add the two spacers to the new springs. As a gesture to Triumph I added one spacer to the passenger side spring.

 

I was able to push the front bolts out with my finger so I re-used them.

 

Stan

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I was able to push the front bolts out with my finger so I re-used them.

 

Stan

 

 

Thats the difference between a Californian car and a UK one then as you would have really struggled with one from here.

Stuart.

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