Rob the jeweller Posted August 16, 2011 Report Share Posted August 16, 2011 Hi all, Just thought I'd change the fork pin for a new strengthened one as the gearbox is out. As feared the damm thing has sheared and only the threaded section came out. Does anybody have any ideas on how to get the rest out? As ever a quick ten minute job has turned into a scratching the head moment Cheers Rob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nick Jones Posted August 16, 2011 Report Share Posted August 16, 2011 http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/clutch/ClutchForkPin/RemovingBrokenClutchForkPins.htm Buckeye Triumphs - some great write-ups there Nick Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fireman049 Posted August 16, 2011 Report Share Posted August 16, 2011 Hi Rob. I had the same problem with my TR3A. The only remedy is to cut the cross-shaft either side of the fork and fit new units. I cross drilled the fork unit and cross shaft and fitted an auxilliary bolt and nylock nut ~ no more problems! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rob the jeweller Posted August 17, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 17, 2011 (edited) http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/clutch/ClutchForkPin/RemovingBrokenClutchForkPins.htm Buckeye Triumphs - some great write-ups there Nick Cheers Nick, I'll give that a go tonight. Rob Edited August 17, 2011 by Rob the jeweller Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted August 17, 2011 Report Share Posted August 17, 2011 Hi Rob, before you cut the cross shaft have a look at the fork where the pin would protrude if it screwed in further. Is it possible to drill this area and knock the remnants of the pin out.. you may save the shaft and fork. When you come to rebuild it you will need to support the new taper pin. BUT!!! firstly make sure that the new pin, new fork AND new/old shaft actually fit together fully and correctly - there are some badly made pins and shafts out there. assemble these on the counter of the shop. The usual method is a scroll pin through the fork and shaft, or a 1/4 bolt. But the fit needs to be good. I went the other way and fitted a bush in the tapping hole in the fork (apprx 0.3" dia)on the other side of the shaft and turned a 1/4" parallel nose on the taper pin. This puts the taper pin in double shear and will not fail. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rob the jeweller Posted August 17, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 17, 2011 Tonight I drilled the the fork directly above the old pin. I was then able to punch out the offending pin as suggested. The new pin went in a treat and screwed up nicely, I finished it all off with binding wire through the pin and around the shaft. Hopefully that's everything all done. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted August 18, 2011 Report Share Posted August 18, 2011 Tonight I drilled the the fork directly above the old pin. I was then able to punch out the offending pin as suggested. The new pin went in a treat and screwed up nicely, I finished it all off with binding wire through the pin and around the shaft. Hopefully that's everything all done. Best to cross pin with a 4mm OD roll pin as well. Stuart Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rob the jeweller Posted August 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 19, 2011 Best to cross pin with a 4mm OD roll pin as well. Stuart Hi Stuart, I don't quite understand what you mean by " cross pin " can you elaborate for me please Rob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted August 19, 2011 Report Share Posted August 19, 2011 like this Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted August 19, 2011 Report Share Posted August 19, 2011 like this Yep exactly like that Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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