randall977 Posted August 14, 2011 Report Share Posted August 14, 2011 Hi, many thanks for all of the advice with my resto, I think I am now nearing the finish line! Two small questions if I may; 1. I have a noisy tappet, the wear must be such that I can't find it with a conventional feeler - I read that there is a solution to this - trim the feeler or something?? 2. The starter solenoid turns the engine over as it should but the key often turns the engine over VERY slowly - that means that I have a fault between the ignition and solenoid - where should I start to look? Thanks Christian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted August 15, 2011 Report Share Posted August 15, 2011 Christian To find the noisy tappet take the thinnest feeler you have and feed it into each rocker in turn with the engine running. It will mash the feeler up but you should be able to isolate the noisy one. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
randall977 Posted August 15, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 15, 2011 I've heard stories about doing it with the engine running but couldn't work out how... So I can't just use the starter solenoid then? Thanks Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kiwifrog Posted August 15, 2011 Report Share Posted August 15, 2011 (edited) Hi, many thanks for all of the advice with my resto, I think I am now nearing the finish line! Two small questions if I may; 2. The starter solenoid turns the engine over as it should but the key often turns the engine over VERY slowly - that means that I have a fault between the ignition and solenoid - where should I start to look? Thanks Christian Sounds like a high resistance in the starter feed, check the block is correctly earthed, failing thas mating faces between the starter and block may be insulated by paint. Easy to check by using a jump lead from the battry to a good earth on the starter itself then see if it spins better. Oops just reread the post sounds like a lazy solenoid try a replacement. The coil is not pulling the high current contact closed correctly causing high restance in the starter circuit. When you press by hand you are exerting more force and correctly closing the High current circiut to the starter Alan Edited August 15, 2011 by Kiwifrog Quote Link to post Share on other sites
randall977 Posted August 15, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 15, 2011 Thanks Alan, the earth is not great - I ran it directly from the starter to the bulkhead... The solenoid is new but a £10 one... Christian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted August 15, 2011 Report Share Posted August 15, 2011 I've heard stories about doing it with the engine running but couldn't work out how... So I can't just use the starter solenoid then? Thanks No, the engine has to be running. It only takes a minute or so t do. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
randall977 Posted August 15, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 15, 2011 Okay, I'll do it! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Pete R Posted August 15, 2011 Report Share Posted August 15, 2011 I tried that the other day and it does tend to splash oil everywhere, so you might want to put some rags over the surrounding area. It didn't stop the noise on any of my tappets either, so perhaps they all need closing up a bit!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
randall977 Posted August 15, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 15, 2011 I have run it with the cover off and it was a bit messy. I've made several attempts at setting the gaps correctly but one is not playing ball - if I understand this correctly just inserting the feeler in the noisy one will tell me which one is the problem as it will go quiet... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted August 16, 2011 Report Share Posted August 16, 2011 That's correct. Sorry, I should have warned you about the oil splashing around. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PJM Posted August 16, 2011 Report Share Posted August 16, 2011 The reason you wont get an accurate gap is because a feeler guage requires a flat surface on both components to measure accurately, over the years the rocker arm will have worn sightly concave. So when you insert the feeler to set the gap you are actually measuring across the edges of the rocker arm to valve stem rather than the clearance itself. Some people have successfully used adjusters of various types which are based on measuring the distance travelled for a particular type of thread and therfore take account of any wear in the valve stem/rocker arm. They come up from time to time on e bay Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted August 16, 2011 Report Share Posted August 16, 2011 A wire feeler gauge might prove useful but if the rocker surfaces are that far worn I'd be looking at new rockers and shaft. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
randall977 Posted August 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 16, 2011 I bought a Gunsons adjuster which works by setting one correctly with adjusting clicks from a screwed down position and then using the same amount of clicks on the rest - therefore avoiding uneven wear. This worked fine for most but it is still difficult to tighten up the outer nut without loosing the centre position. I only have one noisy tappet and I'm not going to let it beat me. Tonight I will line the engine bay with lots of kitchen towl and find the offending tappet! Then I'll make an approprite tool to set it correctly... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted August 16, 2011 Report Share Posted August 16, 2011 Hi Christian, with the rocker cover removed and the engine running how about pressing each rocker in turn with your finger on the valve end of the rocker. This will/should keep the gap closed that causes the 'tap' - the other end is sat in an oil bath and should produce no/little noise. Mind your fingers though. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PILKIE Posted August 16, 2011 Report Share Posted August 16, 2011 I had the same problem on a dolomite 1500 engine,found it as described,then just adjusted the tappet,tad,by tad,till the noise went and it then ran quiet and sweet. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BrianC Posted August 16, 2011 Report Share Posted August 16, 2011 I've also used the 'Pilkie Process' once or twice. However, although you normally set the valve clearances with the engine cold, I think this fine-tuning needs to be done with the engine hot. It's many years since I had to do this, so perhaps someone can confirm or correct me. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
randall977 Posted August 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 16, 2011 (edited) Started the process today and found the guilty rocker arm very quickly...did ruin my feeler but I didn't use my nice old one! Now doing the adjustment but very nervous about over doing it and causing valve burn. It is the end rocker arm and is noisy due to play in the rocker shaft...does this mean I should not adjust it until the noise goes - do I need a new shaft? Edited August 16, 2011 by randall977 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PILKIE Posted August 16, 2011 Report Share Posted August 16, 2011 (edited) "Pilkie Process" With the dolly,it was tappy when warm,amd easy to detect when cold,so I did adjustment when warm as thats normal op temp. It was just detectable on cold start up,so finessed the adjustment another tad or 2 so it was quiet when cold. After about a year,"I had all but forgotten about it",it started to come back,but by that time I had got good s/h bits to fix it. Randall977 if the rocker shaft or the shaft hole in the rocker is worn then no amout of tappet adjustment will fix it,unless its so tight it compensates for the wear then it wont run right and be too tight! Looks like you will either have to buy new or find a known good s/h set up. Edited August 16, 2011 by PILKIE Quote Link to post Share on other sites
randall977 Posted August 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 16, 2011 I guess I shouldn't have sold the spare set I had so quickly! New shaft it is then. I know from servicing this one that removing the pedestals is a horrible job - in fact I didn't do it because they were too well on. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted August 16, 2011 Report Share Posted August 16, 2011 I guess I shouldn't have sold the spare set I had so quickly! New shaft it is then. I know from servicing this one that removing the pedestals is a horrible job - in fact I didn't do it because they were too well on. Sounds like the whole lot is knackered if the shaft is the rest will also be Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted August 16, 2011 Report Share Posted August 16, 2011 I'd agree with that diagnosis. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
randall977 Posted August 17, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 17, 2011 (edited) New bits in the post... Edited August 17, 2011 by randall977 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted August 17, 2011 Report Share Posted August 17, 2011 Sounds like the whole lot is knackered if the shaft is the rest will also be Best check your valve springs as well Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
randall977 Posted August 17, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 17, 2011 Head rebuilt 200 miles ago so I have to assume this is all okay - 3 springs per valve on all valves - is this normal (original head)? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted August 17, 2011 Report Share Posted August 17, 2011 Head rebuilt 200 miles ago so I have to assume this is all okay - 3 springs per valve on all valves - is this normal (original head)? Nope it is not Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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