Paul West Posted July 19, 2011 Report Share Posted July 19, 2011 I posted some time ago re the car conking out when hot.I thought this was cavitation but turned out to be, with your help, inadequate original wiring to the bosch pump. This was sorted, with the help of Mervyn Rogers of TVG. Subsequently, I've topped up the rad with a little engine oil that was in an anti-freeze bottle. What problems this has caused, resulting in a recored rad,lower temp thermostat and temp sensor all to try and reduce the running temp (between N and H). The block has been flushed with engine flush, Radflush, dishwasher tablet (crushed) and even a little washing up liquid (as a degreasant). The water runs clear but engine still runs (shows) hot. I plan to drive to Harrogate! so any ideas would be welcome. Could the gauge be faulty? I've ordered 4life coolant to add to the system but I'm now running out of time/ideas. Regards Paul West Quote Link to post Share on other sites
carld Posted July 19, 2011 Report Share Posted July 19, 2011 Paul It could be the sensor, as I believe there are several different ones available for triumphs, mine has the white plastic. Is the fuel gauge reading true? could be the voltage stabilizer. Have you tried running without the thermostat, does it get as hot as quickly as with? Have you tried driving with the heater on, does that lower the temperature? Do you have an electric fan, is it kicking in early enough? Cheers Carl Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PJM Posted July 19, 2011 Report Share Posted July 19, 2011 Do you know anyone with a 5, 6 or 4 that live nearby? Quick and rough check is to use crocodile clips and associated wires to connect your temperature sender to their wiring (and vice versa), then see what their gauge is reading. Temp gauge should go to full deflection when wiring is earthed, so disconnect the sender and with the ignition turned on connect the sender wire to earth in the engine bay. The gauge should read full deflection. In a similar post on the 6 forum I am sure there is a thread with the voltages that should correspond to various temperatures. Senders are so cheap though it may be worth changing anyway as it would not be the first one to be faulty. A solid state voltage stabiliser is also cheap off e bay and wont show to spoil originality and can easily be changed back if required. I carried out a search for "gauge voltage" and it turns up loads of advice including airlocks, faulty thremostats, wrong sender (100 or 110) so may be worth repeating and reading the suggestions from others. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Paul West Posted July 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2011 Many thanks for your ideas. As well as the new rad, I've put in a new sensor and a 74degree thermostat to aid the cooling. The fuel gauge is correct but when the temp gauge is towards hot, the engine doesn't feel overly so. Taking off the rad cap doesn't lead to any fluid boiling over and cools quickly so I'll nurse it to Harrogate and I am hoping that the International crowd will solve this so if you are there the car is BRG with the reg.no.KVR 320F! If it gets there! I'll be with the TVG party Regards Paul West Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Paul West Posted July 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2011 To add to my last message the heater is on but as I've put in a new thermostat, I haven't run the car without one thinking that the lower temp. one would help. I don't have a Kenlowe because, until recently, the car has never had heating problems. It seems a coincidence that since putting that oil in the rad the reading has been inaccurate. (I hope).I may well have put in a new rad unnecessarily as the prob could be as you suggest. I don't know anyone nearby with a TR to check so may have to wait until Harrogate Many thanks Paul Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted July 19, 2011 Report Share Posted July 19, 2011 (edited) Many thanks for your ideas. As well as the new rad, I've put in a new sensor and a 74degree thermostat to aid the cooling. The fuel gauge is correct but when the temp gauge is towards hot, the engine doesn't feel overly so. Taking off the rad cap doesn't lead to any fluid boiling over and cools quickly so I'll nurse it to Harrogate and I am hoping that the International crowd will solve this so if you are there the car is BRG with the reg.no.KVR 320F! If it gets there! I'll be with the TVG party Regards Paul West Paul You have an air lock,start the car rad cap removed and top up water on standby.Let it get hot ie when the stat is open you can feel this with your hand on the top of the stat houseing(be carefull) when it gets hot the stat will open now top up the rad when the water goes replace cap and your done Edited July 19, 2011 by ntc Quote Link to post Share on other sites
67_gt6 Posted July 22, 2011 Report Share Posted July 22, 2011 (edited) Even better, get the front of the car into the air while you run it up to temp with the rad cap off, so that the top of the rad is higher than any other part of the coolant system. Or do it facing uphill. if you still experience problems after this, buy a 5 pound multimeter from Maplins with a themocouple on it, run the car up to temp with the rad cap off, compare the temp on the multimeter with the "high" reading on the gauge. Andy Edited July 22, 2011 by 67_gt6 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JJohn Posted July 27, 2011 Report Share Posted July 27, 2011 I posted some time ago re the car conking out when hot.I thought this was cavitation but turned out to be, with your help, inadequate original wiring to the bosch pump. This was sorted, with the help of Mervyn Rogers of TVG. Subsequently, I've topped up the rad with a little engine oil that was in an anti-freeze bottle. What problems this has caused, resulting in a recored rad,lower temp thermostat and temp sensor all to try and reduce the running temp (between N and H). The block has been flushed with engine flush, Radflush, dishwasher tablet (crushed) and even a little washing up liquid (as a degreasant). The water runs clear but engine still runs (shows) hot. I plan to drive to Harrogate! so any ideas would be welcome. Could the gauge be faulty? I've ordered 4life coolant to add to the system but I'm now running out of time/ideas. Regards Paul West Hi Paul, FBHVC did some work, I think it was last year, on modern coolants coloured red. Although not mentioned by name, 4Life is one of these. They warned of damage which can be caused to older engines and their gaskets by the use of these coolants. I had just switched to 4Life when I read the FBHVC report. I immediately went back, as recommended in the report, to blue antifreeze. Jim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Paul West Posted August 1, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 1, 2011 Hi everyone, Just returned from Harrogate so before I went I removed the thermostat to aid the cooling. I have a question: Should the original factory fitted 8 blade fan be enough to cool the engine in all conditions? For the sake of originality, I haven't fitted a Kenlowe believing the above to be adequate but coming down the M1 the car was running a tiny bit above normal operating temp but when I hit the M25 and slowed to a crawl the gauge (which I believe to be accurate)crept up to just below H.On the run again the temp of course fell slowly back. Ticking over at the showground the temp rose to just below H to show others and the general feeling is that it shouldn't get that high. Seeing that I have anew rad,hoses ttemp sensor and it's filled with 4life do you think I have a blockage in the block itself as I was unable to free the block drain tap? All suggestions gratefully received! Paul Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted August 1, 2011 Report Share Posted August 1, 2011 (edited) Hi everyone, Just returned from Harrogate so before I went I removed the thermostat to aid the cooling. I have a question: Should the original factory fitted 8 blade fan be enough to cool the engine in all conditions? For the sake of originality, I haven't fitted a Kenlowe believing the above to be adequate but coming down the M1 the car was running a tiny bit above normal operating temp but when I hit the M25 and slowed to a crawl the gauge (which I believe to be accurate)crept up to just below H.On the run again the temp of course fell slowly back. Ticking over at the showground the temp rose to just below H to show others and the general feeling is that it shouldn't get that high. Seeing that I have anew rad,hoses ttemp sensor and it's filled with 4life do you think I have a blockage in the block itself as I was unable to free the block drain tap? All suggestions gratefully received! Paul Paul Yes it should,have you flushed the rad? does the drain hole release water when the tap is removed? Edited August 1, 2011 by ntc Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Paul West Posted August 1, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 1, 2011 Hi ntc, I've fitted a new rad, hoses, temp sensor and thermostat and flushed the system thoroughly but still the gauge gets towards H when idling. I want to know if this is normal so if it is, I shall fit a kenlowe. If not, then I have to find the source of this problem as I have to avoid traffic like the plague. (I left home (Surrey) at 02.30 and arrived at the showground at 0700 just to avoid jams) Paul Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Paul West Posted August 1, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 1, 2011 Hi ntc, Forgot to add that the engine block drain tap is closed solid and can't budge it so have flushed through the rad Paul Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted August 1, 2011 Report Share Posted August 1, 2011 Hi ntc, Forgot to add that the engine block drain tap is closed solid and can't budge it so have flushed through the rad Paul Remove it and let us know Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Paul West Posted August 1, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 1, 2011 Hi ntc, I'll remove it as soon as poss and let you know Paul Quote Link to post Share on other sites
67_gt6 Posted August 4, 2011 Report Share Posted August 4, 2011 I want to know if this is normal No, it isn't. Have you got the air out of the system as per earlier posts? What is the temp in the radiator neck when the gauge is showing hot? andy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Paul West Posted August 24, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 24, 2011 ntc, I've taken out the drain tap as it was in the open position but completely blocked. I'm baffled now as inside the aperture is just iron with no water jacket visible. I've poked this hard with a steel spike to make the metal shiny but there is no evidence of any water so the drain tap looks like it's there to fill the thread in the block. Do any other TR engines have this feature? How else is one supposed to drain the block? Any suggestions gratefully received as the heating probs still remain Cheers Paul Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted August 26, 2011 Report Share Posted August 26, 2011 Hi Paul, if you have a drain tap in the block then it should have water in close proximity If you can scratch the innards clean but still have no water escaping then that whole area of the block is bunged up. Somehow you will need to get at it from above and give it a damn good poking . Triumph would not have blocked a redundant hole with a drain tap. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted August 26, 2011 Report Share Posted August 26, 2011 Engine strip job afraid Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Paul West Posted August 26, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 26, 2011 The crud is solid around the no.6 cylinder so I'll take the head off and try from there. If no luck,as Neil says it's an engine strip down and I'll have the block cleaned out. It's all good fun,eh? Regards Paul P.S. Many thanks for all your replies. It really helped pinpoint the problem Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tallpaul Posted September 1, 2011 Report Share Posted September 1, 2011 Sounds like a job for the Formic acid............. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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