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Tr3a rear crank oil seal....


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I've installed Chris's seal twice now, and they so far have worked as advertised. I can't say I'm oil drip free, but one or two drops does not concern me.

 

Both of my kits used an original scroll which was machined to fit. Are you using the new scroll? I found as the halves were mated together it helped to guide the seal toward the engine with some spacers against the crankshaft flange. But everything mated up well.

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Tom

 

Might be worth taking the crank and seal out then reinstalling the main bearing end cap with the Ali block and measuring the apature and depth of the machining to hold the seal to make sure it is within the tolerances given in the instructions, when I machined mine I did it to the exact measurements given and had no problems. It may be that the seal or Ali block may have an error. I can tell you that once fitted Christians seal works bloody well, the only oil leak I have on my chassis is from the gearbox and I didn't build that.

 

Cheers

 

Alan

Edited by Kiwifrog
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I think I finally got the seal sorted! The problem now is that when I tighten down the rear main bearing cap I can't rotate the crankshaft! I've got the correct sized bearings fitted and I even tried the old bearings but to no avail.

The main bearing caps have been transferred from my old block on to the reconditioned block. I suspect the problem lies here?

Your advice would be really appreciated.

 

Tom.

Edited by Fireman049
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Tom,

 

Just keep an eye on how the machine shop is to bore them, (ask them) I would be surprised if there is enough material left in the block to accomodate line boring when the block has been finished already once !

 

I may have missed it being posted but is there something wrong with the original bearing caps for that block ?

 

Mick Richards

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I think I finally got the seal sorted! The problem now is that when I tighten down the rear main bearing cap I can't rotate the crankshaft! I've got the correct sized bearings fitted and I even tried the old bearings but to no avail.

The main bearing caps have been transferred from my old block on to the reconditioned block. I suspect the problem lies here?

Your advice would be really appreciated.

 

Tom.

 

 

Have you checked for correct pinch on the new main bearings ?

I had a faulty one in the expensive new OE spec set that I used, found after dismantling for the 3rd or 4th time when I noticed a raised spot on the bearing material being caused by the bearing shell being a couple of thou longer than the rest. Same symptoms as yours crank locking up when getting close to the full torque on the endcap bolts. Replaced with a new set of bearings and all ok.

 

Alan

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Check the caps in case they have been previously filed (an old trick practised many years ago :( )

Stuart.

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Those were the days, Coarse TR engineering fix number 38 as I remember.

 

Mick Richards

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Check the caps in case they have been previously filed (an old trick practised many years ago :( )

Stuart.

Hi Stuart ~

The caps look 'normal'. I know this doesn't prove anything. Where can I get the overall dimensions of main bearing caps?

 

Tom.

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Guest Mick RichardsChange...

Hi Tom,

 

Try measuring the interior dia of the main bearing caps when fitted and compare the dimensions of one main bearing cap against another, also make measurements around the dia of the cap and block to see if you can pick up where it may be eccentric.

 

Internal micrometer or slip gauges may be necessary and a fine discerning touch.

 

Mick Richards

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Tom

 

Have you tried swapping the bearing shells between the caps to see if the problem follows a bearing or stays with the cap ? That way you know that a bearing that works with another cap works/or does not work with the end cap. If you have the same problem with the bearings from another position that work in the other position then you know its the cap or Journal that is the problem, time to get the micrometer out.

 

 

Cheers

 

Alan

Edited by Kiwifrog
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Guest Mick RichardsChange...

Hi Alan,

 

Tom says he's tried the crank with the "old" bearings fitted and still has the same problems ie no turnee. It does seem that there is a difference in the rear mains cap fitment, perhaps it will become clearer when Tom measurers the dias.

 

Mick Richards

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Tom

The caps are line bored and should not be swapped your machine shop should be able to sort this

Thank you Neil ~

 

I'm trying to find an engineering company ~ but when you live in north Wales things can be quite difficult!!

 

Regards ~

 

Tom.

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Tom

2.5 hr drive for you I know but I can help you with a good un if you wish?and not daft money

Thank you Neil. I'll try to sort something out here first. I really don't want to refit my old block as this is a TR2 one with no camshaft bearings!

 

Tom.

Edited by Fireman049
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You can fit cam bearings to TR2 blocks, funnily enough the pocedure is very well outlined in the Fergie T20 tractor manual ;)

Stuart.

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Yes Stuart I was aware that fitting cam bearings can be done ~ that is if you don't live in north Wales! We have absolutely nothing engineering wise here! I can't even get my block line bored for pity's sake!

Even though I've had the TR resprayed I'm at the point of giving up because I can't proceed without refitting the engine.

 

Tom.

Edited by Fireman049
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Then can I suggest you take Neil up on his offer of help. The company he is recommending are very good indeed. I realise its a bit of a hike for you but I would say its well worth it.

Stuart.

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Hi Stuart ~

 

Thank you for that. If all else fails I shall have to give it serious consideration. I've been toying with buying a short block rebuilt engine from one of the TR spares suppliers.

 

Tom.

Edited by Fireman049
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