mjc Posted July 14, 2011 Report Share Posted July 14, 2011 Hi Can someone point me in the right direction for a new TR5 Hi torque starter? There are a couple of different ones on ebay, but don't know which is best. Are they much the same? Thanks Mike Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tony Millward Posted July 14, 2011 Report Share Posted July 14, 2011 (edited) Hi Mike, Give Lucas a call at the TR Shop. Link for you....The TR Shop Tony Edited July 14, 2011 by Tony Millward Quote Link to post Share on other sites
badshead Posted July 14, 2011 Report Share Posted July 14, 2011 (edited) Mike I've fitted 2 of these now and they're not all the same. First was from SC Parts (TR6) and second was from TR Shop (TR4A). The one from SC Parts has two bolt holes as per the original and is easy to fit, the second has a fixed stud on the top mount and is a pain in the arse to fit. They both spin the engine over fast, but the one from TR Shops (made by Wosp), makes a hideous screeching, hairdryer type noise while the the SC parts supplied version sounds more like you'd expect a starter would. Edited July 14, 2011 by badshead Quote Link to post Share on other sites
had17462 Posted July 14, 2011 Report Share Posted July 14, 2011 TRGB was the cheapest when i got mine, very good they are as well. nick Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tony Millward Posted July 15, 2011 Report Share Posted July 15, 2011 Mike I've fitted 2 of these now and they're not all the same. First was from SC Parts (TR6) and second was from TR Shop (TR4A). The one from SC Parts has two bolt holes as per the original and is easy to fit, the second has a fixed stud on the top mount and is a pain in the arse to fit. They both spin the engine over fast, but the one from TR Shops (made by Wosp), makes a hideous screeching, hairdryer type noise while the the SC parts supplied version sounds more like you'd expect a starter would. Mine sounds fine...no screeching sound at all and the stud can be removed. Tony Quote Link to post Share on other sites
badshead Posted July 15, 2011 Report Share Posted July 15, 2011 and the stud can be removed. From memory, not sure about that. I think the stud is there because there would otherwise be insufficient clearance between the soleniod and flange to get the bolt through. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tony Millward Posted July 15, 2011 Report Share Posted July 15, 2011 From memory, not sure about that. I think the stud is there because there would otherwise be insufficient clearance between the soleniod and flange to get the bolt through. As it stands, you are correct. To remove the stud you have to take the flange off first. This is what I did and can now use a nut and bolt... Cheers Tony Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tr4Tony Posted August 13, 2011 Report Share Posted August 13, 2011 Watch for recon'd ones that have been convverted to fit a TR at around £150 ... for a new unit you should be paying £200 ish and has a fixed bolt at the tip to get around the clearance issue. Regards Tony Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Badfrog Posted August 15, 2011 Report Share Posted August 15, 2011 Whichever you buy, make sure to bolt it securely (nylstop) and block the body maintaining long studes with piano steel wire. These bas... tend to come apart and get loose real easy. Badfrog Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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