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Hi Graham,

  with Stuart confirming the orientation I am now sorted.

 

Hi Alan,

           the original rib has cleaned up quite nicely so I am sure I do not need a new inner rib.

 

Roger

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Well, Heavens above it passed the MOT with a very badly painted rear wing.   Had an interesting day today. I needed to spray the  rear wing from the TR4. I did this last week and it wen

Hi Folks, well that was quite prophetic !!!!!!  Lockdown on March 23rd certainly threw a spanner in the works, So after 8 months sleep the Blue Racer has risen and having risdid is now at ho

Hi Roger, I recently had the "opportunity" (not) to do some bodywork on and respray my rear wing. I bought a very cheap (customer return) small garden gazebo on ebay and put it up in my garage. I

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2 hours ago, RogerH said:

Hi Graham,

  with Stuart confirming the orientation I am now sorted.

 

Hi Alan,

           the original rib has cleaned up quite nicely so I am sure I do not need a new inner rib.

 

Roger

When you put it back in spray some weld through primer in between before fitting and when you have finished welding it up and or leading the edge then seam seal down behind between it and the wing as water getting in there is why you always see wings rotted just behind the forward edge.

Stuart.

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  • 2 months later...

Hi Folks,

    apologies for not posting on the Blue Racer for long periods. Life is just so busy.

Anyway as per the previous posts I have been playing with the nearside rear wing. All the new metal is filling the holes nicely:blink:. It is pretty close to being the right shape.

Today I shall start applying filler to smooth things out. This could take some time as it needs to look good before I start to paint it.

In doing this wing I have noticed other areas that are not as good as they should be. I wish the garage that did the panels and paint did a better job.

Never mind, everything can be sorted - I have an angle grinder :)

 

Whatever the condition of the wing I will have to fit it soon to get an MOT. However it is easily fitted and removed so no problem there.

 

Roger

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  • 4 weeks later...

Well, Heavens above it passed the MOT with a very badly painted rear wing.

 

Had an interesting day today. I needed to spray the  rear wing from the TR4.

I did this last week and it went just a little wrong.

Last week I made a tent, from polythene dust sheets, over the wing on my bench.

All went well until a gust of wind got up and blew the sheet against the wet paint.

Garage door open

When it came out of its cocoon it had paint damage due to the sheet touching it.

But, it also had dust and the odd bug. When I say odd bug I don’t mean a purple, 50 legged Squawking beastie; no I mean there were 7 of them.

Never to fear when the paint is dry I can rub it down and start again.

The big issue was my poly tent was held together with string and sticky tape.

 

The Mark 2 followed the next day. After a visit to the hardware store I made four panels using 2”x1”x 6ft and stapled more poly sheeting to this.

These panels were held together using plastic tie wraps.. There was another sheet over the top.

Today this was put in the garden. Did you notice how hot it was in West London.

The first problem was that moisture was pumping out of the ground into my plastic greenhouse. So I had to lay down a plastic sheet for the floor (bad move)

 

So I now have a 6ft cube With a small table inside upon which lay the wing.

To help rid the cube of bugs and moisture I placed the hose of my Henry vacuum cleaner into the cube.

After apprx 30 minute I burst into action. Not spraying but putting Henry out – did I mention the hot weather.

Poor Henry had over heated big time and was issuing smoke from its nether regions.  Never to fear, the cube looked bug free.

Down to business. I have a loaded paint gun and ready to shoot.

All went well. Did I mention the hot weather. I was sweating like a porcine animal.

I was being very careful about my sweaty head dripping on the wing.

I was also mindful that my feet were now sticking to the poly sheet and paint over spray on the floor.

Did I drip a dollop of sweat onto the wing – you bet I did.

Most of the wing actually came up very well – but not the drippy bit.

 

What did I learn. If you want a quality job first time every time, give the job to a pro.

But that means you learn nothing.

Also, don;t do spraying in a plastic greenhouse in your garden on the hottest August day since Alfred burnt his cakes.

If you are going to have a sweaty episode then don;t lean over the work piece.

Apart from that it went perfectly.

Ensure that you have a decent breathing mask for the paint you are using.

 

The Mk3 will use thicker polythene, be erected in the garage (cooler) and probably have a new Henry.

 

Roger

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 Nice Job Roger.

we followed the same process, I also used a PE tent and vacuum cleaner for dust/vapour extraction, think it was more a cosmetic action but it helped a bit. The tent in my garage worked fine, I wetted the concrete floor with water as a dust trap, all good. 

The job went well, I used 2K rattle cans to minimise dusting (neighbours)

I have a colour code 32 floor now, so a thick piece of PE film on the floor would be better (still wetted just prior to painting to avoid sticking to your feet).

I hung my panels vertical to minimise dust falling in the fresh paint.

very rewarding job:)

Cheers,

Wali

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Hi Waldi,

my initial concern was the high humidity coming out of the lawn. So I put down a plastic sheet.

This backfired a little as the paint over spray made it sticky and I was then battling against this sheet stuck to my feet while trying to get around the wing.

I will need to rub the wing down and put another coat on. I shall try it with the wing vertical.

 

Roger

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Hi Roger,

I recently had the "opportunity" (not) to do some bodywork on and respray my rear wing. I bought a very cheap (customer return) small garden gazebo on ebay and put it up in my garage. I then used a step ladder, shelf, and a length of 4x2 to hang it up and sprayed vertically.

Worked very well. I still have the gazebo if you would like it.

Cheers,

Sean

20190628_172152[1].jpg

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1 hour ago, Rob Salisbury said:

Hi Roger, It's worth remembering that gravity becomes your enemy when spraying a vertical panel!! ..... ask me how I know this!! ... keep saying to yourself, "thinner lighter coats, thinner lighter coats".

good luck,

Rob

Hi Rob,

did you use 2K paint.  If you did, what is the ideal process for applying.  For cellulose the next coat melts into the previous coat and all is well (sort off)

For 2K do you let it dry and then add another coat etc etc. OR  do you allow it to go tacky then add another coat

Vertical could cause a problem but I feel it may help to stop 'orange peel' effect.

 

Hi Sean,

Thanks for the offer - but how can I take it camping all covered in red paint.

 

Roger

Edited by RogerH
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32 minutes ago, RogerH said:

Hi Sean,

Thanks for the offer - but how can I take it camping all covered in red paint.

 

And it wouldn't fit in your engine bay anyway :D

I used 2K Roger. 2:1 with fast hardener and 10% thinners. When the first coat goes tacky eg sticky to finger touch on a piece of painted masking tape (so that it leaves a fingerprint impression but doesn't come off on finger) then its ready for the next coat. Depending on the temperature and the type of hardener used this was usually about 15 minutes between coats in my case and I applied 3 coats. Little bit of orange peel but flatted out beautifully.

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Hi Roger, I'm very much old skool, been using cellulose for many years and have had very little experience of 2k, (actually, just once while doing a car restoration course at Brooklands College, so had a chance to use a fully set up spray booth with all the safety equipment). I seem to remember doing 3 wet coats over half an hour and ending up with a really nice shiny finish.

I'm in the middle of painting my whole car at the moment (in cellulose) and have been using products from Clostermann which are giving simply excellent results.

Cheers Rob 

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I'm fully expecting a full report tomorrow recounting the tale of how you managed to extricate yourself from the spray booth after sticking yourself to the panel like the numerous insects your captured yesterday. Hopefully with all your limbs intact and not with them folornly waggling about in an otherwise perfectly sprayed surface......

Edited by Ben Freer
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.

I've recently resprayed one of my motorcycle petrol tanks i two-pack, and the advice I was given was to spray a very light peppering coat first, and to leave that for ten minutes, and then to spray one thin but covering coat at a time, inbetween each coat I let it stand for 20 - 30 minutes to skin.    Because the thin coats were allowed to skin allowed me to build up three or four covering coats (to wet and shiny all over) without sagging or runs on the vertical sides and underside to the tank. I did this using up each rattle can of paint. Then I'd leave that paint to dry and bake for 24 hours before I applied the next can of paint. For this tank I used : x1 can (500ml) cold galvanising. x0.75 can (500ml) of etching primer, x3 cans (400g) of base colour, and x1can (500g) of clear lacquer. 

If at any point there's any fault that you couldn't live with - then stop there. And let the paint harden for 24 hours before re-flatting and starting again. I would let the paint dry for a couple of hours and then used my closed-up dark-coloured car, parked in the sun, as a curing oven.  I had to do this twice, once because a bug decided to commit Harry Carry right near the top and then the second time a small white spot appeared from who knows where.  Once hardened I'd cut it back with 600 grit wet n' dry ready for the next attempt.

I really don't know if the following will be in any way useful but for what it's worth here's the sequence I followed :

P1310650as.jpg.2ee011967b1e82daad7ef3d1f5c60a25.jpg

^ surface rust inside the tank (from standing many years) was removed with vigorous agitation, then rinsed out, left to dry, sat in the car parked in the sun for another day and a half, and then coated with POR15.   As you can see the paint wasn't too ugly to start with ..but the previous owner had used paint which literally wiped off with even the slightest spill or splash of petrol.!  

 P1310701as.jpg.86383472ee408071e62fe3918b4643e5.jpg

^ once the inside coating had dried well, I tackled the outside, hand cutting the black paint back to smooth (with wet n dry and a spot of washing up liquid in the water) until I could coat it with cold-galvanising (heavy zinc) paint as a barrier coat (without any reaction).  The task was done on a B&D workmate with a block of wood on edge to hold this petrol tank in the air. The B&D was also easier to turn around than the sunlight.!   Rubbing down was done just outside the garage so the wet didn't walk around too much.  All the painting was done just inside the garage door, good for light ..and so the garage door could be closed on it (and bugs) as soon as the paint was applied.

P1310750s.thumb.jpg.e756d7142170983060fbbfd77727496d.jpg

^ the cold galvanising spray paint was like a spray filler, easy to flat down and even to locally reapply time and again - as a quick drying filler where there was a slight dent from where handlebars had sometime knocked it.   Once hardened this was coated over with etching primer (brand : Pro-XL) ..good stuff went on very nicely.  The above photo is this being hand flattened before the first base coat layer.

P1310753s.jpg.ec68caef42ed817cf60e879d1952bba5.jpg 

^ the aforementioned very light peppering coat - allowed to air dry for ten minutes before the first covering coat of base colour was applied (which was the same paint).

P1310801s.jpg.74ad9b76d2173bd6579958953be00567.jpg

^ The first coat didn't go on very well, it had a lot of orange peel (I'm an retired design-engineer with no paint-shop experience), but allowing it to harden and then flattening it down showed that my fairing / rubbing down was of an acceptable standard  (garage up n' over door lined with bubble wrap can be seen in the water's reflection). The colour is satin black. I chose this because I find it easier to see when I'm not distracted by glossy reflections.

  P1310802s.jpg.71813911b35cc89317e6d2e2704b6d2d.jpg

^ second layer as applied (wet) seen before it dried to a satin finish.  This was very encouraging but the paint was not as opaque as I would have liked, so even through this second coat I could see a bloom of the light grey etching primer.  NB. the black satin paint was mixed by the supplier, and was not of the ProXL brand. 

P1310822s.jpg.57b40b6c1ca801e2ade916f507b10ef1.jpg

^ more rubbing down

P1310823s.jpg.53ce300635c0381113ac0879a52db390.jpg

^ the aforementioned white spot meant the spraying stopped and I let it dry before cutting back. I dared not cut it back any more so it was sprayed over.  Had it not been for that then I would have been happy to move onto the clear lacquer stage. The following can (400ml) painted the tank satin black again, applied as two or three coats (just enough for the covering to be evenly wet) with 20-30 minutes inbetween each. 

P1310824s.jpg.2c9507f9a996933c46de802dc2f62f11.jpg

^ two pack clear lacquer rattle can paint. Pull the pin and throw it.. 

".. not the pin you clown ..the grenade ! "   

Ok., so perhaps not throw it - but certainly shake it well to mix the two chemical parts.  Good paint. I'll use this brand again. 

P1310836s.jpg.079b10f290cdd1cdfae2e8a971c5e875.jpg

^ Clear lacquer (500ml) was applied in three coats, again with 20 -30 minutes inbetween each to skin. In that time the can was put in the bottom of the refrigerator ..because I didn't know what working time I had once the chemicals were mixed.  As it happens I had a tiny amount of the lacquer left in the can after I finished spraying, and so that went back into the fridge.  It was still usable 24 hours later.  The paint on the tank was light touch dry within 45 minutes (in June the weather here was mild but not that hot), but not hard enough to handle. 

So there we are. This paint was allowed to harden for a week of closed car baking before being hand flattened with 1000 then 1200 grit wet n' dry to be rid of the orange peel and to cut back its very high gloss. Once polished back up again it looked very much like a good quality cellulose paint job befitting a vintage (1948) Sunbeam.  It took a lot of spare time and perhaps £70 in paint ..versus probably 4 times that cost and who knows how long waiting for the paint shop. The guy who did my Norton's tank did a really lovely job in metallic green (..but it wasn't actually faultless). However he's always busy so it can take two or three months to get the job done.   

This tank is not perfect, but then anything I do I can see faults in it.  Bottom line is that when it's on the bike and out n' about in the sunlight with reflections of the clouds, trees n' hedgerows, other vehicles, etc., etc - it'll be just beautiful.  I'm not embarrassed by it. 

I hope that's in some way helpful to you Roger.  

Pete.

 

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Hi Pete,

that is a beautiful finish.

Annoyingly the curved top section of my wing looked quite similar but sadly the rear flat section had just too much orange peel to cut and polish.

With all the little tips above I will have  confidence come tomorrow or Friday.

 

Roger

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I'm glad you used the 2K clear lacquer. I painted my T120 tank with acrylic rattle cans, followed by acrylic clear lacquer.

The first drop of petrol which dripped on it took the lacquer straight off.

Sanded it all back to matt, & sprayed again with 2K (pull the pin & twist type) lacquer, now  petrol resistant.

Bob.

 

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Hi Alan,

thanks for that. Yes I have heard of doing that. It highlights the dips and hollows.

On my Royal Blue colour when flatting it I can see the dips disappearing. They remain very glossy until flatted.

 

Roge

Edited by RogerH
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1 hour ago, AlanG said:

If you're going to flat out the orange peel suggest you apply a very light guide coat first. 

Alan.

Only any good for primer coats.

Stuart.

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Can't agree with that . From experience it works very well with solid 2k colour and can't see why it wouldn't work with clear coat. Here's one I prepared earlier :P

P1010597.thumb.JPG.cd9b59b8b184280e70d1ebc240a3da08.JPG

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Hi Folks,

last attempt was rubbed down orange peel et al and it looked good in the flatted condition.

I built my spraying temple in the garage. I used a plastic sheet for the ground cover (again, a bad move - sticky feet)

The spraying went well. I used apprx 200ml of paint and 60ml of hardener (3:1). It did more than 2 good coats.

What was the result -

Orange peel - nil points

runs - nil points

bugs - nil points

specks of much - 6 points.

 

The muck rubbed off nicely with 2000 and 2500 grit.

There were a couple of gloops on the top edge where the chrome strip sits. This was rubbed down and will easily polish.

Tomorrow should see a finished wing - yippee.

 

Roger

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Roger, I take my hat off to you for the things you attempt in less-than-deal conditions. An inspiration to all of us who quail at such difficulties. 

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