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I had exactly the same problem with mine - Cap only JUST went on a mm or two (used to give it a good thump with my fist to ensure it was on as far as it would go). Good news is it cleared the bonnet/hood and never fell off.

 

I fixed it though...bought an alloy cover :ph34r:

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Well, Heavens above it passed the MOT with a very badly painted rear wing.   Had an interesting day today. I needed to spray the  rear wing from the TR4. I did this last week and it wen

Hi Folks, well that was quite prophetic !!!!!!  Lockdown on March 23rd certainly threw a spanner in the works, So after 8 months sleep the Blue Racer has risen and having risdid is now at ho

Hi Roger, I recently had the "opportunity" (not) to do some bodywork on and respray my rear wing. I bought a very cheap (customer return) small garden gazebo on ebay and put it up in my garage. I

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I am now an expert of rocker cover breathers. Dismantled the thing, cut out the central tube, inserted a shorter one, re-assemble.

 

What else would you do on a cold miserable wet day.

 

 

 

 

 

Roger

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by RogerH
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If you are going to do a job then try to do it properly - otherwise it will come back and bite you in the bum.

 

Last year I dismantled and rebuilt the six gauges. During the assembly I realised that I did not have rubber seals that fit between the bezel and the glass.

The original ones had disintegrated.

So my instant spark of genius was to use some silicone sealant (bad move) rather than to try and source the correct seals.

Some time later I realised (I do a lot of realising) that the silicon sealant wasn't silicon but some rubbery stuff that sets quite hard.

Still never mind, the gauges will not need overhaul for another 50 years - wrong.

I noticed the other week that one of the gauges had some muck on the inside of the glass and it iritated me to see it.

 

Having found the correct seals www.autoelectricalspares.co.uk I decided to disassemble (again) the gauges. Stuck solid.

So far I have sorted out two of the smaller gauges and they take a good hour to disassemble. The major problem is that the domed glass is quite delicate and the first gauge

succombed to bashing.

 

I machined a jig to hold the gauge/bezel so that the three little tags could be more easily bent over to lock it togther.

 

One step forward, two steps backwards - how often do we hear that.

 

Roger

Edited by RogerH
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Well, today was interesting. I decided to connect all the electrics to the gauges etc.

very soon a small problem arose. When I bought my new loom a couple of eyars ago I specified it fpr an alternator.

When I came to connect the ammeter there were a few iffy things. Clearly the new loom was wired for a voltmeter.

 

Still I had miles of all the correct wire so knitted what I needed.

It took most of the day 10am - 4.30pm to connect evrything up but I think I'm there.

 

I had a bit of invention going on. I needed an in-line crimp but my biggest looked a bit on the light side.

So using 1" of 1/4" copper fuel pipe I made an in-line crimp of mega proportions.

If you have big copper cables that need crimping then consider 3/16" or 1/4" copper pipe. This will need a coating of shrink sleeve.

 

STAR 90 tomorrow so no work on the 'Blue Racer'. Monday I may apply lecky power. If you see a super Nova in the London direction it could be me.

 

Roger

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Two good things happened yesterday -

1 - having rebuilt the rocker cover breather cap (how can you do a rebuild on a breather cap!! :blink: ) I attempted to apply the transfer with the 'recommended oils' to it.

As a young boy I loved my transfers/tattoo's. I had armfuls of things - butterflies, cars, trains - you name it it was somewhere on.my body.

Anyway I attacked this transfer with the same gusto as fifty odd years ago. Having soaked the whole thing I then proceeded to slide the thing across onto the cap.

This brought back memories - mainly of crumpled transfers that refused to slide. I had one chance at this.

 

Smooth out the crumples, keep sliding. I got the transfer onto the cap but it look like a duvet after a very active night in bed.

Using a finger to do more smoothing I created more wrinkles - oh what fun.

I then had the bright idea of running the tap and letting the water unravel this unholy mess.

The running water did it. So if you are trying to slide the transfer from backing to cap use flowing water to keep it smooth.

 

2 - the second success was applying volts to the new loom. With all the switches in the off position I connected the battery through a 5 amp fuse. No sparks, no smoke and an in-tact fuse. When I get the all the lights wired in I shall try a few switched circuits and see what happens.

 

The weather is acting odd at present. Very overcast with predictions of rain but so far it has been dry and reasonably warm. I've been wearing my thermal overalls in the morning when I start work but by mid-day I'm down to my T shirt. As long as it stays dry I'm OK for working on the car. Otherwise it's all packed away and I do my knitting.

 

Roger

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Today - Rain stopped play. Tomorrow looks good though.

 

In the abscence of finishing the car I decided to plant my tomatoes.

The tom's are in 12" pots and this year I thought I would put them in saucers so that they would not dry out.

Popped along to the garden centre and nearly had a heart attack. Simple plastic saucers to fit under the pots were £2.49 each - I need 10.

Came home and had to have a coffee to get over the shock. Still the toms need watering - what to do!!

So I have fashioned my own saucers using empty compost bags set into hollows in the ground of the green.house.

Using my super duper water computer all I need to do now is to give a 3 minute squirt every day to keep the little darlings moist.

 

Tomorrow I will be doing choke cables.

 

Roger

Edited by RogerH
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Any good junk/s/hand shop would have saucers for next to nothing out of odd sets.

Stuart.

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Any good junk/s/hand shop would have saucers for next to nothing out of odd sets.

Stuart.

Ha Ha, not cup and saucer saucers, large plastic saucer type things that go under large plastic flower pots large enough to grow tomatoe plants in. They are about a foot to eighteen inches across and the flower pots are about the same high.

 

Sue

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Yestreday. as described in a post on the main forum, I had all sorts of problems fitting the choke cable. It came off the car but wouldn't go back on. :blink:

The outer cable shrunk by an inch and the knob end gubbins were too long to fit between the dash and the heater case.

 

I ended up making an 'improved' version using a redundant heater valve knob end, a bicycle gear inner/outer cable and turning up an adjuster at the choke end.

It took most of the day but it works and looks good.

Today I'm off to the TVG lunchtime binge so I'll have a sneaky look at someone elses TR4 set up.

 

Tomorrow, hopefully, I'll be turning on the electrics. Well that's the plan, who knows what will happen.

 

Roger

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Well what did happen !! - not a lot.

Did a few improvements to the wiring loom and later this afternoon I connected the loom to the battery through a 5 amp fuse.

Fuse didn't blow.

Turn ignition switch on, turn wiper motor on. Connect through a fuse - nothing.

Did a few volt checks - something was a miss, and it was the volts that were amissing.

 

Check volts at the ammeter - volts one side but not the other.

 

Dismantle the ammeter and the problem was fairly obvious. Haven't a clue when it could have blown although there was melting taking place in the underdash loom when I took it apart three years ago,

 

Roger

 

 

 

 

Edited by RogerH
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Hi Pete,

high current made it very hot, solder melted. Left hand side of the coil dropped out, things then cooled down.

 

Not sure when it could have happened.

I supppose it was duff when I bought the car as the ammeter only registers the battery charge as such so it wouldn't stop the car from running.

 

 

Roger

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