julie09 Posted May 29, 2011 Report Share Posted May 29, 2011 I am about to start a total bebuild of a TR2 engine and would appreciate help about what is best and what to do for a conversion to run on unleaded petrol or not? Which seats have to be hardend and do the valves need to be replaced? Also I have been told that there is no need to do the above, what is the best action to take? Thanks in advance for any input. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
pfenlon Posted May 29, 2011 Report Share Posted May 29, 2011 I am about to start a total bebuild of a TR2 engine and would appreciate help about what is best and what to do for a conversion to run on unleaded petrol or not? Which seats have to be hardend and do the valves need to be replaced? Also I have been told that there is no need to do the above, what is the best action to take? Thanks in advance for any input. Some folk use additives in the fuel, Its the valve seats ( I think ) which are replaced not the valves, If you are doing a head overhaul you would probably be advised to renew the valve guides along with the valve seats. But you will get more in depth replies certainly. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ashley James Posted May 29, 2011 Report Share Posted May 29, 2011 Best thing to do is dismantle the engine and clean it all up and then take it all to a decent engineering shop who can advise you on what should be done. TL Engineering in Bedford or FJ Paynes in Oxford are two very good companies not too far from you and they will have CNC controlled machinery to accurately sort valve guides and seats, grind cranks and replace camshaft bearings. Gordon at TL Engineering is in his seventies and the only man in the UK with CAA Approval to grind crankshafts for Gypsy Moth Fours! They also have the best modern computer controlled crank balancing machines. The TR engine is a cracker and worth doing really well IMO and with modern equipment can be built to a higher standard than when new. Best of luck! I love building engines, so am envious. Ash Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted May 29, 2011 Report Share Posted May 29, 2011 Hi Julie09, I've just had my TR4 head overhauled. I used 'Classic & Modern' in Bracknell as they were not too far away. If the head has many miles on it then the guides will probably need doing and valves re-cutting so a complete overhaul is not going to cost too much more. Exhaust seat inserts, new guides, new valves (mine were quiet well worn) new core plug at back, new plug on top, re-skimmed = £300 If you are going to overhaul the engine then ensure that you have the #4 big-end to crank web crack tested (magnetic particle prefered). This the weak spot. Whether the crank needs a regrind or not consider the rear oil seal mod. This requires the crank scroll to be ground back to accomodate a new seal (£40 for the grind & apprx £60 for the seal bits). New pistons and liners apprx £250 If your cam is OK ensure you keep the followers and push rods in the same position as before removal. If cam worn get new followers. Measure the wear in the oil pump. best of luck Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.