Mark1965TR4aBRG Posted April 30, 2011 Report Share Posted April 30, 2011 (edited) What's the preferred method to flush out coolant? I have some 'goo' to put in the system to flush out and presume the best option to drain is the lower rad' pipe. Should I be using the tap on the block? All tips welcome. Many Thanks Edited April 30, 2011 by Mark1965TR4aBRG Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bazchaz Posted May 4, 2011 Report Share Posted May 4, 2011 What's the preferred method to flush out coolant? I have some 'goo' to put in the system to flush out and presume the best option to drain is the lower rad' pipe. Should I be using the tap on the block? All tips welcome. Many Thanks hi-the easy lazy way is to drop bottom radiator hose.then using uppermost hose(heater hose)connect your hosepipe & run thro water.ideally u shound remove thermostat then your get flow thro rad-------but the best way is to treat radiator,engine(block),heater as seperate components & flush each seperately----flush in both directions & do this several times till clear water runs out----if adding a cleanser,do this b4 seperating,& run engine to circulate(follow instructions for length of time) ---it is then better to drain water while still hot but take caution & loose pressure in system 1st by carefully & NOT FULLY opening rad cap----you might find that after this flushing that youve "opened a can of worms!!"----you might find pin hole leaks in radiator(under pressure & hot)& leaks(less likely) from core plugs in block b,cos there rusted to paper thin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianc Posted May 5, 2011 Report Share Posted May 5, 2011 It is important to open (or remove) the tap on the block, as it is in this part of the block that all the silt builds up. I remember that we discovered that my brother's TR3 actually had had its drain tap OPEN all the time, but such was the pile of silt that no water had ever come out of the tap! It took quite some effort to remove all the hardened silt, then we refurbished the tap and re-fitted it - but in the closed position! Ian Cornish Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted May 6, 2011 Report Share Posted May 6, 2011 (edited) To follow on from Ians listing, the silt build up around liner 4 is sometimes hard enough to cause despair and it's not unusual to open the tap and have no water flow out. A suitable implement stuck into the opened tap that sometimes even needs a blow from a metallic object on the end to pierce the ceramic like quality of the silt (baked by the engine heat) normally works. Just a word of warning ! if like me your choosen at hand "suitable implement" is a length of gas welding rod you can also carry out welding at the same time when it falls across the live terminal on the remote solenoid ! It took 3 months for the s type scarring across my fingers from the wire to heal! Also you can ruminate about the TR wet liner cooling flo, hottest is cylinder No4 it being the furthest away and the coolent carries the most heat by the time it flows around it. No1 cylinder being the closest to the water pump flow, it actually runs next hottest, (the water speeds by and removes less heat), next Cylinders No 2 and 3 run at a median temperature to cylinders 1 and 4. Whether that temperature is correct depends upon all the other variables Radiator/Block being clean/Themostat valve etc. Also the angle of the engine block in the chassis naturally tilts to the rear of the car, and so all bits of grit,sand, dead mice etc percolate towards the rear of the engine (liner No 4 and the drain valve) and settles around the liner seal area. Hence it blocks up. Mick Richards Edited August 23, 2016 by Motorsport Mickey Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianc Posted May 6, 2011 Report Share Posted May 6, 2011 Dramatic description, Mick. Always wise to isolate electrics when working in the engine bay - easy if you have an isolator fitted, of course. I remember some 50 years ago watch a fellow fitting a brand-new starter operating cable to his side-valve Ford. As he slid this pull cable through the dashboard into the engine bay, it drooped downwards and touched the live connection at the motor. Although only a 6-volt system, we watched with horror as the cable glowed red, then white until it melted in a cloud of smoke! Ian Cornish Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mark1965TR4aBRG Posted May 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 6, 2011 (edited) I had no idea this was such a treacherous task and I'll be very careful not to set fire to myself, or more importantly my 4a! I know the tap is clear, as it pours out if I turn it and having had the bottom radiator pipe off for a new steering rack - I can empty the rad' no problem. I'll use an additive to halp clear it all out too. Thanks as ever for the tips.. Cheers Mark Edited May 6, 2011 by Mark1965TR4aBRG Quote Link to post Share on other sites
qim Posted August 23, 2016 Report Share Posted August 23, 2016 (edited) hi-the easy lazy way is to drop bottom radiator hose.then using uppermost hose(heater hose)connect your hosepipe & run thro water.ideally u shound remove thermostat then your get flow thro rad-------but the best way is to treat radiator,engine(block),heater as seperate components & flush each seperately----flush in both directions & do this several times till clear water runs out----if adding a cleanser,do this b4 seperating,& run engine to circulate(follow instructions for length of time) ---it is then better to drain water while still hot but take caution & loose pressure in system 1st by carefully & NOT FULLY opening rad cap----you might find that after this flushing that youve "opened a can of worms!!"----you might find pin hole leaks in radiator(under pressure & hot)& leaks(less likely) from core plugs in block b,cos there rusted to paper thin Hi I am planning to flush the radiator and engine block in my TR3A. What happens if like mentioned above I " find ... leaks(less likely) from core plugs in block b,cos there rusted to paper thin"? I'm really worried now! What would be the solution if that happens? qim Edited August 23, 2016 by qim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Don H. Posted August 23, 2016 Report Share Posted August 23, 2016 qim, you worry too much! (smile). It's a TR -- it'll be fine. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
qim Posted August 23, 2016 Report Share Posted August 23, 2016 (edited) you worry too much! Yes, I know! The problem is I am very ignorant of mechanics (the science) and distrustful of Portuguese mechanics (the blokes)! Edited August 23, 2016 by qim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted August 23, 2016 Report Share Posted August 23, 2016 Hi Qim, if you have rust covering suspect areas it is better to find out under controlled conditions rather than in the middle of a long run through Europe. Flush it and be damned. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
qim Posted August 23, 2016 Report Share Posted August 23, 2016 Hi Roger But what would need be done if indeed some areas of the engine had been reduced by rust to "paper thin" cover? Could it be repaired or I would need anew engine? qim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted August 23, 2016 Report Share Posted August 23, 2016 Hi Qim, don't panic. The engine block is quite substantial. The core plugs may be in a poor condition but can usually be easily sorted. Very small leaks can be sealed with additives - Kseal, Bars leaks etc Again, best to find out before you set sail. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted August 23, 2016 Report Share Posted August 23, 2016 (edited) Quim,The core plugs that Roger mentions are steel saucer like discs about 50mm dia. These discs seal holes in the engine block and cylinder head. They were part of the original casting process about 60 years ago, as such they may have corroded slightly. No problem, they can be removed and replaced I situ, although the cylinder head one is tight to get at.Mick Richards Edited August 23, 2016 by Motorsport Mickey Quote Link to post Share on other sites
qim Posted August 23, 2016 Report Share Posted August 23, 2016 (edited) Thanks. Got it! I was worried about flushing the engine, but now I will go ahead and hope for the best! Edited August 23, 2016 by qim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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