Quentin Posted April 15, 2011 Report Share Posted April 15, 2011 Hi. I have not done this before and frankly don't know what I am doing, looks like it should be easy though. Now have my new MU and, looking at the owners manual, I need to find TDC for no.6. I assume this means rocker cover off? Could anyone please advise how I find TDC? I have no instruments! I want to do a straight swap. Thanks Quote Link to post Share on other sites
johnny250 Posted April 15, 2011 Report Share Posted April 15, 2011 (edited) Just take the spark plug out and poke a long wooden stick (kebab skewer?) or similar whilst turning the engine over by swinging on the fan belt/fan....might be easier with all the plugs out, until the piston 'rocks at the top of the stroke....probably needs to be the compression stroke (when the draught comes out)or both valves closed if lifting the rocker cover. john Edited April 15, 2011 by johnny250 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Quentin Posted April 15, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 15, 2011 Ummm think I know what you mean. So when the skewer gets pushed up the most? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
john.r.davies Posted April 15, 2011 Report Share Posted April 15, 2011 Quentin, The pointer on the front timing cover that marks TDC on No.1 cylinder when it lines up with the graduations on the crank pulley, ALSO marks TDC on No.6! The two pistons move in unison, as do 2&5, 3&4. No need to diddle about with wires! John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
firsttr6 Posted April 15, 2011 Report Share Posted April 15, 2011 hi just done this myself for first time, tdc on number 1 not 6,take distributor cap off so when on number 1 rotor arm points at about 8 o'clock opposite number 1 plug lead.when putting fmu back on be sure to tighten bango unions good or you will be taking it off again,get the marks lined up and grease the dog drive and bobs your uncle.(well it worked for me) cheers steve. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jersey Royal Posted April 16, 2011 Report Share Posted April 16, 2011 (edited) And you will need tolook through into no 6 union on the Mu union to see the rotor is in the correct postion. There was a recent thread on it. http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?showtopic=28671 I posted a picture of what you should see, it does not want to be the opposite way round Guy Edited April 16, 2011 by Jersey Royal Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Quentin Posted April 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 16, 2011 Thank you everyone. Not allowed to do anything today. The wife has spoken. So tomorrow I will take my rough running TR6 and change it into a glorious one.....or stop it working altogether. If the job goes anything like my efforts to replace a rear wheel bearing yesterday I expect it will be the latter until I have spent 5 times longer than expected on it and used up all my Saxon vocabulary Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steve Knight Posted April 16, 2011 Report Share Posted April 16, 2011 True TDC? - a kebab skewer is not rigid enough. Use a solid piece of dowel ( or extension to a spark plug ) It should be long enough to touch the top of the piston in the center ( or the piston will rock slightly around the gudgeon pin ) Turn the engine to jam on the dowel ( at any point as it rises ) then turn the opposite way to jam again. ( the dowel must not move ) True TDC will be exactly between these two points ( measured from a degree wheel ) You could use this if checking the timing of a camshaft; but better to use a dial gauge if installing. Timing the metering unit need not be so precise. Rockers equal on six will be No 1 firing at TDC, or just use the mark on the pulley wheel ( with No 1 firing on the compression stroke - a finger or rod over the plug hole can tell you this ) then check that MU / 6 is opening; this fuel is going to be inducted and compressed by No 6 piston after 5 & 3 then 6,2,4,1 in rotation; as the MU shuttle shunts back and forth. In fact the MU will work on practically any setting - but wont be so deficient. Many other types of injection systems have fuel/air behind the inlet valve at all times - ready to be sucked in when it opens. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Quentin Posted April 17, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 17, 2011 New MU fitted today, followed Neils's advice (k-raven-smith) to find TDC. Pretty simple really but I guess most things are when you kow the answer! After a worrying period of trying to start she eventually fired up. Ran for a while with idle valve removed then went for a spin,. Oh joy! Smooth as you like. Still a bit rough at idle, but thats probably throttle balance? Anyway, only went about a mile. Got home. Turned off and then restarted. Fired first time, yeehaa! However..........went back again 20 mins later. Bit of choke needed to fire up. Got 50 yards down the road and started misfiring, got worse and worse, so nursed it home. No pulse on 1,2,3 and 5. Pulled put injectors and dribbles on all of those. Christ knows how it is running at all. Visitors arrived and no chance to investigate. So I am assuming that I am crudded up and need to clean the injectors. I can't imagine it's air locking still given the great run earlier. Or could it? Equally I can't think where all the crud came from. Newly reconditioned MU. Bum Anyway plan a is to switch some injectors completely around. I guess if the problem moves with the injector and injector hose then I know where the problem lies, if not....err............Neil's been great so hopefully I can have a chat with him tomorrow. Elated to deflated in 30 mins ! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AndrewP Posted April 18, 2011 Report Share Posted April 18, 2011 Quentin, Dont panic, I've just been through the same exercise as you, and despite bleeding till it ran on all 6 cylinders, and going for numerous runs, the system needed bleeding 2 or 3 times after sitting for a while after running. There always seemed to be air pockets trapped that caused one or more of the injectors to dribble. Good news is though that it will be 100% if you persevere. Mine still takes some choke to get started, and I find it ALWAYS starts on 4 or 5 cylinders, and it takes a while with choke all the way out to get the final last injector to start firing. Once it goes though, its a case of warming it up, then gradually pushing the choke in bit by bit till its warm and runs without any choke. Mine has a recon MU and injectors from Neil BTW. Cheers Andrew Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Quentin Posted April 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2011 Thanks Andrew I'll be at it this evening. Weathers turning good again and I don't want to be spluttering along the curb like yesterday! It was encouraging what you said about it coming back after sitting to a while. That makes sense too and of course exactly what happened. I hate it when you have to stop for guests when something is not right or has just gone wrong Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Yarm 783 Posted March 3, 2020 Report Share Posted March 3, 2020 On 4/17/2011 at 11:14 PM, Quentin said: New MU fitted today, followed Neils's advice (k-raven-smith) to find TDC. Pretty simple really but I guess most things are when you kow the answer! After a worrying period of trying to start she eventually fired up. Ran for a while with idle valve removed then went for a spin,. Oh joy! Smooth as you like. Still a bit rough at idle, but thats probably throttle balance? Anyway, only went about a mile. Got home. Turned off and then restarted. Fired first time, yeehaa! However..........went back again 20 mins later. Bit of choke needed to fire up. Got 50 yards down the road and started misfiring, got worse and worse, so nursed it home. No pulse on 1,2,3 and 5. Pulled put injectors and dribbles on all of those. Christ knows how it is running at all. Visitors arrived and no chance to investigate. So I am assuming that I am crudded up and need to clean the injectors. I can't imagine it's air locking still given the great run earlier. Or could it? Equally I can't think where all the crud came from. Newly reconditioned MU. Bum Anyway plan a is to switch some injectors completely around. I guess if the problem moves with the injector and injector hose then I know where the problem lies, if not....err............Neil's been great so hopefully I can have a chat with him tomorrow. Elated to deflated in 30 mins ! Hi, just going through this, what method did k-raven-smith suggest to find tic for no1 (firing)? Thx Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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