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TR-2 Wire Wheel Hubs


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Sorry if my reply was confusing.....

 

My '54 originally ran steel wheels against the brake drums, no hub extensions.

I picked up a wrecked TR3a with wires and used the wire wheel adaptor hubs that were bolted on that cars drums, to put the wires onto my TR2. My adaptors are just like the one shown on E-bay. Those/my adaptors are often on E-bay over here. The Roadster Factory sells a new hub adaptor set for $399 US.

 

John

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Dan, front drum brakes use the very same bolt-on spline adaptors as used on disc braked cars. As John B said, the wheel lugs need shortening to clear the wire wheel hub.

 

Sounds like John B had steel wheel hubs on his Lockheed axle (different to wire wheel hubs). I hadn't considered these might take later spline extensions, like on ebay.

 

I've not tried this - an easy fix for wire wheels if it will work - Stuart might know.

 

Regards,

 

Viv.

 

You can go from disc wheels on Lockheed drums to wires with the extensions we all know. Its the early Lockheed hubs with the wire wheel spline section built in that is hard to find. Im pretty sure that the Healey wire hubs from 100/6 and 100/4 are similar though they are also hard to find.

Stuart.

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Sorry to sound so daft about this, but if my car has the Lockheed drum system with the original wire wheel hubs, can I use a girling wire wheel hub for the front instead of having to find a Lockheed wire wheel hub (unobtanium)? I take it that with the rear axle, if I want to keep the Lockheed rear end, I need the Lockheed wire wheel hub. But for the front, this thread suggests to me that the readily available wire wheel hub extension will bolt right on.

 

Dan

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Sorry to sound so daft about this, but if my car has the Lockheed drum system with the original wire wheel hubs, can I use a girling wire wheel hub for the front instead of having to find a Lockheed wire wheel hub (unobtanium)? I take it that with the rear axle, if I want to keep the Lockheed rear end, I need the Lockheed wire wheel hub. But for the front, this thread suggests to me that the readily available wire wheel hub extension will bolt right on.

 

Dan

 

A Lockheed steel wheel hub front hub is the way then fit the wire hub extension.

Stuart.

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Hi Dan,

 

This has got a bit confusing while we've worked out a new rear spline solution.

 

Front - you just need two new Girling type splined hub extensions. Same as the ebay item, or Moss USA parts 661-410 RH / 661-420 LH. They bolt straight against the drums.

 

Rear - Let's accept that new Lockheed type rear splined hubs are N/A. To overcome this you need to obtain a pair of Lockheed steel wheel rear hubs. They used to be Moss USA part 674-340 but N/A. Or try Moss UK for any stock - they are listed as part 109553 Hub-steel wheel. Next option is used steel wheel rear hubs - they don't wear out like the splined rear hubs.

 

You'll also need the special splined hub extension attaching nuts - Moss USA part 675-070.

 

Fit the steel wheel hubs to the Lockheed diff. Shorten the wheel lugs and bolt the splined hub extensions against the drums.

 

Hope that clarifies and Aloha,

 

Viv.

 

PS Dan, if you decide on used steel wheel hubs and can't find any, let me know. I can try two sources here.

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  • 2 months later...

A fellow selling on Ebay UK (classicmotorspares) says he has 10 new Lockheed wire wheel hubs he is selling. All left handed. Buy it now price is 35 pounds. Another guy has a single left handed hub with a starting bid at 100 pounds. What is up with the right hand side of the world? Anyway, the seller that has 10 left handed hubs now only has 9, as I got one for myself.

 

Dan

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G'day. We solved the problem here, (given that the wheel bearing 'bit' is OK and the splines are the problem) by simply hacksawing off the splined bit, replacing the wheel studs with longer ones and bolting on some new hub extensions. A fellow here in Oz has had some beautifully crafted new ones turned up, so far it works well. I have a photo somewhere....

 

Cheers

 

Chris

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If you have not got old ones of these fitted to your car you still need the taper collar seat that the wheel centralises against.

The manufacturer for Moss said these were b..st...ds to make when he a did a batch some years ago.

 

Peter W

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