PhilJane Posted January 1, 2011 Report Share Posted January 1, 2011 I am new to TR3A ownership but have a question on fitting the hood. I am sure this has been asked many times before, so apologies there, but can any members advice on the correct procedure for fitting the hood? I have read that I need to part raise the stick frame, attach the rear fasteners followed by the front fasteners on the top of the windscreen frame and then working inside the car "straighten" the cranked frame arms. That seems the impossible part! Any advise? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BrianC Posted January 1, 2011 Report Share Posted January 1, 2011 I think that in theory what you've described is the correct way. However, it's never worked for me and I suspect it only works on a warm day with a slack hood. I always put the frame fully up and fit the rear fasteners (from the centre working outwards), then with a supreme effort and suitable language, get the front centre fasteners on. After that it's a doddle! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
sidescreen Posted January 1, 2011 Report Share Posted January 1, 2011 Indeed as you both discribed, it seems the correct way and worked for me always fine. There's only one thing, mind your fingers during the last part ! Regards - Raymond Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PhilJane Posted January 1, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 1, 2011 I think that in theory what you've described is the correct way. However, it's never worked for me and I suspect it only works on a warm day with a slack hood. I always put the frame fully up and fit the rear fasteners (from the centre working outwards), then with a supreme effort and suitable language, get the front centre fasteners on. After that it's a doddle! Hi Brian, Pleased to hear it wasn't just me! I will give it a go as you have advised. Might even try leaving the front two fasteners attached and give the "straightening the frame" method a go. thanks, Phil. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mychael Posted January 1, 2011 Report Share Posted January 1, 2011 Also if you have a 2nd person to help when straightening the frame is goes up easier as well when pulled evenly. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
vivdownunder Posted January 2, 2011 Report Share Posted January 2, 2011 Phil, you could try this easy way I've been using for years........ Remove the tiny screws (and hold down plates) that fix the webbing to the hood spar above the back window. The fitting precedure is then - Fully raise the hood bows. Push the freed spar forward. Toss on the hood, which is now a loose fit. Fix the fiddly Tenax fasteners across the windscreen first. Pull the back of the hood down and attach to the "lift the dot" fasteners. Tighten the hood by pushing the freed spar back as far as possible. No more skinned knuckles or shocking bad language (at least not with the hood). Regards, Viv. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dave Larnder Posted January 2, 2011 Report Share Posted January 2, 2011 Phil, you could try this easy way I've been using for years........ Remove the tiny screws (and hold down plates) that fix the webbing to the hood spar above the back window. The fitting precedure is then - Fully raise the hood bows. Push the freed spar forward. Toss on the hood, which is now a loose fit. Fix the fiddly Tenax fasteners across the windscreen first. Pull the back of the hood down and attach to the "lift the dot" fasteners. Tighten the hood by pushing the freed spar back as far as possible. No more skinned knuckles or shocking bad language (at least not with the hood). Regards, Viv. Hi Viv That's the proper way to fit the hood on an Austin Healey 100/6, but they only have 2 hooks to the screen and 2 "U" slots on the rear scuttle to fix the hood, with a piece of flat bar sewn into the hood, followed by the Lift the dots. I have often thought to try that with my TR3A but have yet to try it, but it sounds logical. Dave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BrianC Posted January 2, 2011 Report Share Posted January 2, 2011 I like Viv's solution, but wouldn't it be nice if someone came up with a folding hood/frame conversion like the later TRs? I remember fondly how easy it was to erect the hood on my first TR4A whilst still in the driving seat (often whilst still on the move!). In the sidescreen cars the only option in a sudden downpour is to find a handy bridge to shelter under for the 5-minute hood erection or drive faster! Consequently, I rarely bother to carry the hood except on long trips. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianc Posted January 3, 2011 Report Share Posted January 3, 2011 In the 1960s, when I was running my TR2, I found it comparatively easy to erect the hood if the hood was both dry and warm. However, if the hood was wet, it was an enormous struggle to get the frame arms over-centre, the more so because my own arms are short and one needs to get both frame arms over-centre together - much easier if one has an assistant. It strikes me that one needs a pair (left and right-handed) of purpose-built, T-shaped, levers of about 12" in length, each of which could be clipped onto the appropriate frame arm so that more leverage could be exerted simultaneously to get both frame arms over-centre - and the finger-trapping problem (very painful) could be avoided. Perhaps some handy person with a TR2/3 could devise such tools? Ian Cornish Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PhilJane Posted January 3, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 3, 2011 In the 1960s, when I was running my TR2, I found it comparatively easy to erect the hood if the hood was both dry and warm. However, if the hood was wet, it was an enormous struggle to get the frame arms over-centre, the more so because my own arms are short and one needs to get both frame arms over-centre together - much easier if one has an assistant. It strikes me that one needs a pair (left and right-handed) of purpose-built, T-shaped, levers of about 12" in length, each of which could be clipped onto the appropriate frame arm so that more leverage could be exerted simultaneously to get both frame arms over-centre - and the finger-trapping problem (very painful) could be avoided. Perhaps some handy person with a TR2/3 could devise such tools? Ian Cornish Thanks to all members for the advise and techniques offered for erecting the hood. Please to let all know that the hood is successfully erected, using a combination of all methods described, a stout pair of leather gardening gloves and a fair bit of muscle! If you do persevere with straightening of the rear cranked arms, you can get there. The vinyl in the hood is cold with current weather, but the hood looks good and is as tight as a drum! Phil. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted January 3, 2011 Report Share Posted January 3, 2011 You should be very careful erecting a cold hood as it is possible to crack the rear window. Stuart Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted April 21, 2012 Report Share Posted April 21, 2012 In the 1960s, when I was running my TR2, I found it comparatively easy to erect the hood if the hood was both dry and warm. However, if the hood was wet, it was an enormous struggle to get the frame arms over-centre, the more so because my own arms are short and one needs to get both frame arms over-centre together - much easier if one has an assistant. It strikes me that one needs a pair (left and right-handed) of purpose-built, T-shaped, levers of about 12" in length, each of which could be clipped onto the appropriate frame arm so that more leverage could be exerted simultaneously to get both frame arms over-centre - and the finger-trapping problem (very painful) could be avoided. Perhaps some handy person with a TR2/3 could devise such tools? Ian Cornish That is a good idea Ian, says me now with blooded knuckles Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Don Elliott Posted April 21, 2012 Report Share Posted April 21, 2012 While I was restoring my 1958 TR3A from 1987 to 1990, I bought a new Robbins top from Roadster Factory and installed all the snaps myself to make sure they were placed correctly. I also installed new webbing. During the past 22 summers, I have driven my TR about 108,000 miles but because of our sunny summers, the top has been up about 3,000 miles while driving and about 25 more times at fully judged Triumph concours shows where the judges require it to be erected. From new, I had always lifted the struts part way up, thrown the top over the struts, snapped the top all aound the back and finished with the Tenax pegs on the top of the windscreen frame. Then I would do as described by other TR owners above where I would then sit on one seat and reach back to try to pull equally on each of the folded struts at the rear near the bottom. This was always hard to do, because the top is stored in the boot for months without being put up. With this storage, the vinyl shrinks and it's hard to put up. Time also hasn't helped with me now 22 years older. A few years ago a chap from Windsor Ontario, suggest that I do as before, but leave the top snap not attached at the top of the "S" dog-leg for each side. Then the stuts are much easier to erect. After that you pul down on the edge of the top to secure those last two snaps. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted April 21, 2012 Report Share Posted April 21, 2012 Don Thank you that is what I did in the end man with sore knuckles Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fireman049 Posted April 22, 2012 Report Share Posted April 22, 2012 The hood arrangement on my Austin Healey 100 and MGA were far superior to the TR3A. as the hoods were permanently attached to the hood frame. All you had to do was lift both hood frames up and then attach the rear section to two escutcheons and the front was secured by two over-centre hooks. You could erect both hoods in a raging gale unlike trying to fit the hood to the TR. Tom. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
colin addison Posted April 25, 2012 Report Share Posted April 25, 2012 I agree with all said so far but would add: the front lift-a-dots MUST be fixed first with no side pressure on them, or you will break the internals. They must be pushed straight onto the screen peg. Look down the hole on yours and you will see some of them are missing, or badly mangled. So having fixed all the fronts, now fix the backs with the sticks still down. Having done that now sit in the car and raise the sticks. You will realise now that you are sitting in the relative dry, because you, like me will have left it until it is p...... down before even contemplating raising the said hood! You will only trap your fingers once, extremely painfull, having by now learnt how to do it properly. One of my soon jobs this summer is to replace all my front lift-a-dots which I know are mostly broken. best of luck Colin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted April 25, 2012 Report Share Posted April 25, 2012 If you are talking about the front Tenax fasteners then do check any new stock carefully as I have found that around 50% of the repro ones around have the spring clip inside bent out of shape before you start. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
EdKing Posted April 25, 2012 Report Share Posted April 25, 2012 With the frame fully up I attach the two 'centre' rear studs then the corresponding two studs on the front. Then complete both sides of the front then finish with the remaining back studs. Works for me in any conditions and in good time. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rodbr Posted April 25, 2012 Report Share Posted April 25, 2012 Just a point I think worth mentoning is that it is possible that if your hood is a very tight fit it can and does sometimes pull the screen frame off the glass!!!! This is the reason for particular attention when you centre the glass during replacement. The repro screens have varying degrees of quality and can end up smaller than the original. Unlikely with an original glass but a distinct possibility if the glass has been replaced. If in doubt get a set of aero screens and drive faster.LMAO Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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