wish i could drive it Posted December 12, 2010 Report Share Posted December 12, 2010 i would like to try to start the cars engine after it has been stood for a long time (8 years) so i am asking for advice as regards preparation/safeguards that i should do beforehand. thans for any advice. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Alec Pringle Posted December 12, 2010 Report Share Posted December 12, 2010 First of all take on board the fact that there's always a possibility that it will end in clatter . . . bang . . . tears. Remove plugs, spray in penetrating oil for a start, follow that with a 50/50 diesel paraffin mix to (if you're lucky) free off the stuck piston rings. Remove rocker cover, spray everything liberally with penetrating oil. Leave it for a couple of days. Meanwhile drain out/pump out any old fuel and change the filter. Carb dashpots will need topping up, not relevant if you have PI, but you may need to free off stuck injectors. Then drain the oil and water, preferably backflush the cooling system. Fresh oil and filter, and fresh coolant. Couple of gallons of Shell V-Max. Spray some ordinary engine oil over the rocker shaft/valve gear, replace rocker cover and with a new gasket. Initially, and carefully, turn over the engine by hand with the plugs out - several times. Listen for any nasty noises, if there are any start planning the strip and rebuild. If not, turn over on the starter, still with plugs out, get some oil around the system - you're still listening for nasty noises ! If still good, replace plugs (using new ones correctly gapped), you'll already have checked the points, and give it a go. Don't rev it until warm, and keep listening. Best of British, may the force be with you. Cheers, Alec Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted December 12, 2010 Report Share Posted December 12, 2010 First of all take on board the fact that there's always a possibility that it will end in clatter . . . bang . . . tears. Remove plugs, spray in penetrating oil for a start, follow that with a 50/50 diesel paraffin mix to (if you're lucky) free off the stuck piston rings. Remove rocker cover, spray everything liberally with penetrating oil. Leave it for a couple of days. Meanwhile drain out/pump out any old fuel and change the filter. Carb dashpots will need topping up, not relevant if you have PI, but you may need to free off stuck injectors. Then drain the oil and water, preferably backflush the cooling system. Fresh oil and filter, and fresh coolant. Couple of gallons of Shell V-Max. Spray some ordinary engine oil over the rocker shaft/valve gear, replace rocker cover and with a new gasket. Initially, and carefully, turn over the engine by hand with the plugs out - several times. Listen for any nasty noises, if there are any start planning the strip and rebuild. If not, turn over on the starter, still with plugs out, get some oil around the system - you're still listening for nasty noises ! If still good, replace plugs (using new ones correctly gapped), you'll already have checked the points, and give it a go. Don't rev it until warm, and keep listening. Best of British, may the force be with you. Cheers, Alec To add to Alecs before turning it over make sure every valve will press down Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chris59 Posted December 13, 2010 Report Share Posted December 13, 2010 (edited) To add to all the above advices, I always follow this route : - remove the distributor, the metering unit, the distributor drive gear, taking great care of marking their position, - fill the oil pump vertical drive axle (correct term ?) with penetrating oil + engine oil as explain by Alec, - turn the oil pump (anticlockwise) with an electric drill until it bring the oil pressure up (I use a slanted steel bar + electric drill for this) - refit all the removed parts, don't forget to readjust the driving gear clearance with the pedestal gaskets. - have a beer, and cross fingers I follow that route since a friend of mine tried to restart an engine after 10 years : the oil pump was sized solid (as was one piston axle !), the driving "teeth" broke, and the lack of oil destroyed all the bearings .... Chris. Edited December 13, 2010 by Chris59 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter Cobbold Posted December 15, 2010 Report Share Posted December 15, 2010 And you'll probably find, having started the engine, that the clutch driven plate has rusted itself onto the flywheel. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
wish i could drive it Posted December 15, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 15, 2010 thanks every one. i think i will try in the spring when i have enough(dutch)courage. re: siezed clutch the method i have used in the past. jack the rear end up(securely) so the tyres are clear of the ground start the engine(and yes the rear wheels will rotate) wait till the engine warms up and keep pressing the clutch pedal i have have found that it will free. it did for me. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter Cobbold Posted December 15, 2010 Report Share Posted December 15, 2010 When mechanically sympathetic means fail to free the clutch: face downhill, engage first gear,foot off clutch, hold starter on until engine fires,acclerate down potholed track aiming for the holes while pounding brake pedal. That's after spraying WD40 in the bell-housing and leaving it for two days. Moral: dont leave a TR under a tarp for the winter, especially not on a welsh hillside. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nick Jones Posted December 15, 2010 Report Share Posted December 15, 2010 Just be sure your brakes work before trying this Nick Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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