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turning an engine over after not being used for a long time


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First of all take on board the fact that there's always a possibility that it will end in clatter . . . bang . . . tears. :(

 

Remove plugs, spray in penetrating oil for a start, follow that with a 50/50 diesel paraffin mix to (if you're lucky) free off the stuck piston rings. Remove rocker cover, spray everything liberally with penetrating oil. Leave it for a couple of days. Meanwhile drain out/pump out any old fuel and change the filter. Carb dashpots will need topping up, not relevant if you have PI, but you may need to free off stuck injectors.

 

Then drain the oil and water, preferably backflush the cooling system. Fresh oil and filter, and fresh coolant. Couple of gallons of Shell V-Max. Spray some ordinary engine oil over the rocker shaft/valve gear, replace rocker cover and with a new gasket.

 

Initially, and carefully, turn over the engine by hand with the plugs out - several times. Listen for any nasty noises, if there are any start planning the strip and rebuild. If not, turn over on the starter, still with plugs out, get some oil around the system - you're still listening for nasty noises ! If still good, replace plugs (using new ones correctly gapped), you'll already have checked the points, and give it a go. Don't rev it until warm, and keep listening.

 

Best of British, may the force be with you.

 

Cheers,

 

Alec

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First of all take on board the fact that there's always a possibility that it will end in clatter . . . bang . . . tears. :(

 

Remove plugs, spray in penetrating oil for a start, follow that with a 50/50 diesel paraffin mix to (if you're lucky) free off the stuck piston rings. Remove rocker cover, spray everything liberally with penetrating oil. Leave it for a couple of days. Meanwhile drain out/pump out any old fuel and change the filter. Carb dashpots will need topping up, not relevant if you have PI, but you may need to free off stuck injectors.

 

Then drain the oil and water, preferably backflush the cooling system. Fresh oil and filter, and fresh coolant. Couple of gallons of Shell V-Max. Spray some ordinary engine oil over the rocker shaft/valve gear, replace rocker cover and with a new gasket.

 

Initially, and carefully, turn over the engine by hand with the plugs out - several times. Listen for any nasty noises, if there are any start planning the strip and rebuild. If not, turn over on the starter, still with plugs out, get some oil around the system - you're still listening for nasty noises ! If still good, replace plugs (using new ones correctly gapped), you'll already have checked the points, and give it a go. Don't rev it until warm, and keep listening.

 

Best of British, may the force be with you.

 

Cheers,

 

Alec

 

 

To add to Alecs before turning it over make sure every valve will press down

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To add to all the above advices, I always follow this route :

- remove the distributor, the metering unit, the distributor drive gear, taking great care of marking their position,

- fill the oil pump vertical drive axle (correct term ?) with penetrating oil + engine oil as explain by Alec,

- turn the oil pump (anticlockwise) with an electric drill until it bring the oil pressure up (I use a slanted steel bar + electric drill for this)

- refit all the removed parts, don't forget to readjust the driving gear clearance with the pedestal gaskets.

- have a beer, and cross fingers ;)

 

I follow that route since a friend of mine tried to restart an engine after 10 years : the oil pump was sized solid (as was one piston axle !), the driving "teeth" broke, and the lack of oil destroyed all the bearings <_< ....

 

Chris.

Edited by Chris59
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thanks every one.

 

i think i will try in the spring when i have enough(dutch)courage.

 

re: siezed clutch

 

the method i have used in the past.

 

jack the rear end up(securely) so the tyres are clear of the ground

 

start the engine(and yes the rear wheels will rotate)

 

wait till the engine warms up and keep pressing the clutch pedal

 

i have have found that it will free.

 

it did for me.

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When mechanically sympathetic means fail to free the clutch: face downhill, engage first gear,foot off clutch, hold starter on until engine fires,acclerate down potholed track aiming for the holes while pounding brake pedal. That's after spraying WD40 in the bell-housing and leaving it for two days.

Moral: dont leave a TR under a tarp for the winter, especially not on a welsh hillside.

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