TR NIALL Posted November 30, 2010 Report Share Posted November 30, 2010 Hi Guy, these look like pukka competition split rims, in other words 3 pieces - 2 rims and a centre. They are held together by the ring of bolts and nuts, and by a sealant/adhesive both sides of the centre, and then usually a ring of sealant, as you can see on Pink's wheel, covering the outer edge of the centre and the joins to the rims. Initial assembly of new split rims isn't too bad, given the requisite jig clamp, sealant, and tightening sequence. It's subsequent disassembly and reassembly that is more difficult - not a diy job, and it's something best entrusted to a specialist motor sport concern rather than the chaps who refurbish one-piece road alloys. All too easy to distort the rims when cracking them off the centres, for example. In the days when I was involved with serious race cars we used split rims - and if it was necessary in dire emergency to replace one damaged rim we invariably replaced both rims on the centre rather than just the one, along with the nuts and bolts of course. Even with the right kit on the transporter, paddock repair was a last, desperate, resort. Those who were in the pits at Le Mans qualifying in 1980 won't forget the TR8 wheel/tyre man and the Dunlop bloke, both on their knees praying for England. That's how close to the wire it can get, and why I suggest it's not a diy job. As with any split rim, first consult the original manufacturer and go from there. Niall, don't ever ever even think of driving on a split rim with one bolt missing . . . . Cheers, Alec Thanks for the advice Alec,no way will i be doing that.BTW the bolts are also embedded in the Polly/sealant so cannot imagine they would work loose. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Alec Pringle Posted November 30, 2010 Report Share Posted November 30, 2010 Hi Niall, modern sealants are far superior to the stuff we used in the 70s and 80s, much more reliable and long lasting - the corollary of that being that it can be more difficult to disassemble rims from centre without causing damage or distortion. One of several reasons why the average alloy wheel refurbishment outfit won't touch split rims with the proverbial bargepole. It makes sense to carefully inspect the nuts and bolts of a split rim wheel as a normal service item, just as you would check wire wheels, maybe every 3K miles. Heat used to be the big enemy of sealant in the old days, wheels would be removed and checked after practice, to ensure they were 100% before the race. It was rare to find a problem, but it could, and very occasionally did, happen. Cheers, Alec Quote Link to post Share on other sites
KEL Posted December 12, 2010 Report Share Posted December 12, 2010 i have got hold of some mag alloy wheels i am going to fit 205/60/15 any body encountered probs with these tyres on the 6, i no they are going to stick out a bit bit are the front wheels going to rub allso do you fit summer tyres or all season tyres speed rating 130 any advise welcome-----------those wire wheels look great on your car dont change them regards kel regards pink Quote Link to post Share on other sites
robnob Posted December 14, 2010 Report Share Posted December 14, 2010 No Problem gentleman, its all in the line of finding out but it is also nice to get an apology i also have a breeze breaker same supplier as guy nice bit of kit On the tyres Neil is going to find out what tyre would be a good tyre for the wheels as i have limited knowledge on this subject regards pink After all that Pink, I still think the wires look the nuts on your car !! regards Rob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
wish i could drive it Posted December 14, 2010 Report Share Posted December 14, 2010 re wide tyres. ihave had my six on xj6 tyres (dunlop sp sport er70vr15) since 1978 with out any problems Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jellison Posted December 15, 2010 Report Share Posted December 15, 2010 (edited) Hi Pink, Why ? A 205/60/15 needs a 7" rim to be worth having, at which point it almost certainly will give clearance problems. Anything less than 7" and the tyres won't work properly, slip angles all over the place. You'll be feeding loads into the steering, suspension, chassis and transmission that they were never intended to accommodate, with an ongoing maintenance and repair budget and workload implication. If, that is, something doesn't break first and pitch you headlong into the scenery. As for speed rating, I wouldn't consider using H rating for that section, V or above is more like it - you're putting the tyres to a lot of stress and strain, resulting from an inappropriate suspension and steering design. All of which is a long-winded way of saying it's a barmy idea. Cheers, Alec Alec - most racers use 6J rims with the 205/60/15 tyres. Though some go to 7J but you need to move the wings out on the bolts hols to do this (even with an Offset wheel all the way "IN the way" on a 7J). 6 is perfect as a few different offsets. The question is pointless unless you know thw offset, as some rims will sit out further relative to the bolt holes / hub than others. 205 on a 6j is fine, 7 is best (but won't fit unless mod the car). The std rim is a 5.5 which obviously is not good (but I did even run 205's on them for a year or two! 195/65x15 is a great compromise on a 6j rim between grip / looks and profile too. Edited December 15, 2010 by jellison Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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