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Bought a TR7


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Guys

 

I have added a TR7 to the TR6 in the garage.

 

CAN 50V built 1979, first registered 1993, mileage now 26526 (validated by a set of MOT's)

 

http://s229.photobucket.com/albums/ee130/timnkathryn/TR7/

 

Hopefully you can see the pictures.

 

Body seems very solid with good paint and interior.

 

Issues - Clutch, bites low towards the floor, I have bled the clutch but suspect I may need to change it (NB I cannot make it slip on the move, however hard I try)

Brakes - Again long pedal travel but very good when I get there. I need to bleed them and check the automatic adjusters at the rear?

Tyres - Date code says 1997! so I think they need to go. But I like the alloys and so need to understand whether I can fit Princess calipers under these alloys and what tyres does anybody sugest for this size, 185/70 * 13.

Steering - is heavy despite PO advising that bearing race tops have been fitted to the struts, any ideas?

Cabin noise - rear suspension is on Yellow Poly from Rimmer. Is this to hard and transmitting lots of noise where other bushing would be quieter?

 

 

Well there we go, the list has started, sorry about that.

 

Regards

 

Tim

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Tim

 

Is it original or has it been restored?

 

Looks like a great car in very good condition.

 

I've always thought that they have been under valued and represent a real bargain.

 

Y'know, I'm quite envious, I might have to break open the piggybank...

 

Regards

 

Peter

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www.tyre-shopper.co.uk who are internet based but send them to your local tyre depot for fitting.

I had same problem as you - my tyres were original but 1981 so way past sell buy date.

Found getting the speed rating the biggest problem on 13 inch tyres but settled for one rating lower than original spec - insurance co were ok about it as no way do I drive at 125 mph.

Finally went for Continentals which were bought at tyre shopper & fully fitted / balanced at National Tyres for 200 pound for 4 off.

National Tyres couldn't even beat the price when I phoned them.

Don't think it matters what brand as long as it is not made in china / Romania etc.

Since my mileage is low per year they will be changed on age not wear.

They have a deal on UniRoyals at present 4 for 180 pounds & range from 50 - 80 per tyre for other makes.

 

Also nice to have another convert to TR7's

FYI

 

1978 –79 cars built at Canley

 

1.

Assembly Plant:

T = Canley-Built

2.

Model Range:

C = TR7/8

3.

Specification:

G = TR7 coupe for home market/Europe/Australia.

 

4.

Chassis Number:

(varies in the number of digits)

 

5.

Option suffixes:

F -five speed gearbox fitted

Edited by Neil_W
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Neil

 

Chassis Number TCG 112214 F.

 

Build Date 5 July 1979 from a Heritage Certificare in the paperwork I received.

 

Peter

 

Ongoing maintenance over the years. It has had some paint (no Laurel Leaf on the bonnet for instance) but you cannot tell when looking over the car. Certainly never seen a welding torch. Just lots of wax on a regular basis.

 

Regards

 

Tim

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This is what happens when you come down to Mere for the day, Tim, you talk yourself into a Wedge . . . . :P

 

But there you go, hard to beat this green machine for an everyday classic runabout, and had it been an equivalent condition and provenance TR6 you'd have needed to have put a 1 in front of the price tag, and possibly more than that. :D

 

Worthwhile advice on the tyres Neil, well done - as it happens Tim's luck is in, as I've a set of almost new 7 boots here surplus that will go on nicely for him . . . . they need to be used up and I need the space. ;)

 

Cheers,

 

Alec

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It does look splendid, I had the bearing mod fitted to my 7 but it made little difference steering was hard when parking, before and after.

 

Power has to be the way to go, perhaphs.

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Hi to another TR7 owner - I could be persuaded to fancy a hard top like yours, anyhow to reply to your questions:-

 

1) Clutch, bites low towards the floor. I have a very similar issue on mine and have driven it 20K miles in the last three years without any problems. Discussing it a couple of weeks ago with Simon @ Robsport he told me that there was a batch of clutches about 10/15 years ago that all suffered from this problem - they have the car in for a service and apparently the fix is a simple adjustment of a bracket. Another possible cause is the flexible hydraulic hose has become too flexible (heat related issue) and the hose is expanding instead of the clutch moving.

 

2) Am not 100% certain about Triumph 13" alloys, but on my 7 the Princess calipers fit OK under the standard steel wheels. FYI I have fitted 14" MGF wheels - it certainly improves the choice of tyres.

post-5863-0-70820500-1288664246_thumb.jpg

post-5863-0-70820500-1288664246_thumb.jpg

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Not sure what happened but only posted part of my reply. Here's the second part:_

 

 

 

3) I have Greenstuff pads fitted and there is some, but not excessive travel, so probably needs bleeding

 

4) I also fitted bearings at the top of my struts and haven't noticed as much difference as I expected. However the only time I find my steering heavy is when I do a full lock 3 point turn pulling out of my garage - the rest of the time its fine. Maybe something else is making it heavy?

 

5) Can't comment on the noise, but I run on Rimmers Polybushes throughout with standard springs and an anti dive kit fitted. This gives a very good balance of comfort (48 hours sitting in my TR7 in the RBRR without any problems is proof of that!) & handling suitable for some very spirited road driving :)

 

Happy motoring

 

Howard

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hi and good buy! fit Ford Capri 2.8inj vented discs and calipers(fit under 13inch wheels)and are easy to get parts/upgrades for as the princess ones are harder to get bits for, i have them on my V8 and are VERY good... :D

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Guys

 

Many thanks for the responses. All good information for a TR7 novice.

 

Peter/Howard - I will wait until I have changed the tyres and greased the steering rack and then see how Kathryn gets on with the sterring weight.

 

Howard - Thanks for those replies. Most usefull

 

Andy - So are the Capri discs and calipers a bolt on or are there mounting issues to deal with?

 

Regards

 

Tim

Edited by TIMS
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Good to see Tim here today in the Tin Can - for a quick Wedge reboot.

 

What a nice machine, lovely looking piece of kit, absolute bloody bargain. The boy done well ! ;)

 

It'll be interesting to hear his comments on tyres and steering after his drive home . . . .

 

Cheers,

 

Alec

Edited by Alec Pringle
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Tim,

 

Glad to hear all well with the car. The lower ball joints are brand new so this may not be helping the steering. Found the service book and original owners manual and it all went in the post yesterday. Enjoy!

 

MK

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Good to hear of a new TR7 convert.

 

I posted somewhile ago about doing the strut top bearing, I cant actually find my notes at the moment but I have always found with my car that checking the tyre pressures as often as possible, keeping the rack well greased, a bit more of a fiddle is to make sure that the top mount is set with enough grease and in good condition.

I prefer to run my car without power steering and dont have any trouble at high or low speed motoring.

 

With clutch problems, getting a decent braided metal hose really has helped with my cars.

 

Happy to help where I can.

 

Cheers

Ian

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Andy - So are the Capri discs and calipers a bolt on or are there mounting issues to deal with?

 

Regards

 

Tim

 

 

No they are not a strait bolt on you need to put an adapter spacers on

 

this is some photos of my car,Sorry I do not have the dimensions for them but i am sure we could all find them for you

 

the strut bearings are a must Even my wife can use the car with them

 

I have just copied this from my blog on another site with out edit to save time

 

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I stripped the discs off the other day this photo you can see the wheel spacers

 

1L3dQS.jpg

 

I have now got the hub stripped down and off the car

 

released the 4 hex bolts attaching the disk to the hub conversion

 

removed the old disk

 

cleaned the hub spacer to get good contact with the new disc

 

and this one the you can see the components to be removed (ford Capri 2.8 i discs and calipers)

 

1L3Ufi.jpg

 

This is the hub off the car you can see the 4 hex bolts and the aluminum conversion spacer

 

1L43dS.jpg

 

 

===================================================================================

OK got discs back

 

the centre hole is now a nice fit (now 72mm)

 

Question the centre bolt should be 5 lb f ft

 

but my torque wrench only goes down to 22.1 lb f ft

 

what is the best way to tighten up the nut so I know all is good

 

DSC00756.jpg

 

 

 

Now the bad bits

 

The new disks did not fit the centre hole was about 1 to 2mm to small to fit ... :evil:

 

at the moment they are at my mates work getting the hole enlarged to make it fit

 

will put up a photo of the completed disc when finished

 

I finished one side of the brakes tonight

 

Before i had to do child minding duties

 

Hopefully i will finish off tomorrow

 

DSC00759.jpg

Edited by stevie-a
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