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Fuel Starvation due to cr*p in the tank


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Hi Guys

 

Travelling back from Stafford on Sunday, I started to have a kangaroo issue, on inspection I noticed that the pre pump filter was full of rubbish. The pump was making a right racket which I put down to fuel starvation.

 

I have subsequently changed/cleaned the filter and all seems well again (a few larger flakes but mainly fine and what looks like soil). I realise I need to do something with the tank, whether that be to treat it or replace it with a new aluminium tank (I never intend to sell the car), any reccomendations on whose are the best tanks welcomed. However do you think i need to change the bosch filter as well? or given that the blockage appears to have been in the pre filter and therefore not getting through to the pump and therefore not into the bosch filter as well.

 

I guess some rubbish would have got through before the major issues, have I just answered my own question? Therefore I guess fine cr*p may have got through to the injectors, how do you clean injectors?

 

Cheers Carl

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Hi Guys

 

Travelling back from Stafford on Sunday, I started to have a kangaroo issue, on inspection I noticed that the pre pump filter was full of rubbish. The pump was making a right racket which I put down to fuel starvation.

 

I have subsequently changed/cleaned the filter and all seems well again (a few larger flakes but mainly fine and what looks like soil). I realise I need to do something with the tank, whether that be to treat it or replace it with a new aluminium tank (I never intend to sell the car), any reccomendations on whose are the best tanks welcomed. However do you think i need to change the bosch filter as well? or given that the blockage appears to have been in the pre filter and therefore not getting through to the pump and therefore not into the bosch filter as well.

 

I guess some rubbish would have got through before the major issues, have I just answered my own question? Therefore I guess fine cr*p may have got through to the injectors, how do you clean injectors?

 

Cheers Carl

 

 

Hi Carl,

 

Nice Motor.

 

If you arent going to flog the car i would junk the old tank and fit a new ally one. The prefilter would catch most of the muck, i would think that any thing that gets through will just be pushed through the bosh pump, and it will

end up at the Mu.

 

One thinhg you could check is the filter in the Mu. Follow the main fuel line feed to Mu, undo the union, and there is a small white gauze type filter which will be just inside Mu. Its very similar to the one thats in the old type Prv valves, that too would be worthy of an inspection.

 

Hope this Helps

 

Guy

Edited by Jersey Royal
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Carl

 

Do not underestimate the amount of crud that you will get from filling up with fuel in the normal course of driving, especially abroad. I now treat the pre-filter element as a maintenance item and change it every 12 months (about 6k miles) and each time I do I am amazed at the crud in there. I am not talking about flakes of tank linning, my tank is good and checked out as such not long ago, this is particulates which must be coming from filling up.

 

So - the pre-filter is doing its job properly and protecting the Bosch pump and the MU and injectors from the crud.

 

When was the last time you changed / washed out the pre-filter?

 

Regards

 

Tim

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Thanks Guy and Tim

 

Interestingly I have had no issues in two years, however I did go to Le Mans? (no offence badfrog), so it could have been crud in the fuel, as on inspection of the inside of the tank albeit with a torch and in situ, I could see nothing of concern.

 

Guy who's ally tank have you fitted? I will check MU and PRV filters as well

 

Cheers Carl

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Thanks Guy and Tim

 

Interestingly I have had no issues in two years, however I did go to Le Mans? (no offence badfrog), so it could have been crud in the fuel, as on inspection of the inside of the tank albeit with a torch and in situ, I could see nothing of concern.

 

Guy who's ally tank have you fitted? I will check MU and PRV filters as well

 

Cheers Carl

 

 

Carl,

 

I have a Revington Ally tank, been in for ten years no problems.

Whichever tank you go for make sure you give it a good flush through to

remove any swarf that may or may not remain, or even bung the vacum hose

in. Fresh tank no vapours.

 

Cheers

Guy

Edited by Jersey Royal
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Carl,

I had the same problem. The pre-filter was full of crud, the Facet (lifter) pump filter was full of sand, the pre-Bosch filter was full of powder and the POST-Bosch filter was stained rusty. I replaced them all.

 

JOhn

Edited by john.r.davies
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Carl

 

Do not underestimate the amount of crud that you will get from filling up with fuel in the normal course of driving, especially abroad. I now treat the pre-filter element as a maintenance item and change it every 12 months (about 6k miles) and each time I do I am amazed at the crud in there. I am not talking about flakes of tank linning, my tank is good and checked out as such not long ago, this is particulates which must be coming from filling up.

 

So - the pre-filter is doing its job properly and protecting the Bosch pump and the MU and injectors from the crud.

 

When was the last time you changed / washed out the pre-filter?

 

Regards

 

Tim

 

 

Hello,

I swear by using a pre-filter nowdays. Even though my tank had been cleaned three times with acid, last year it still filled the pre-filter up with this:

DSC00093-2.jpg

 

Though this year I'm still using one filter with very little debris inside :)

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I'd suggest that the introduction of bio-ethanol is responsible for at least some of the increasing amount of crud in filters. It's a different type of solvent, which can and does pull some historical deposition off the inside of the car's fuel tank and fuel lines, and not surprisingly can do the same thing with the filling station's storage tanks. So there's more muck floating around in the fuel than used to be the case. Therefore a pre-filter becomes a very good thing, and a routine maintenance item.

 

Cheers,

 

Alec

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I fitted a stainless petrol tank to my TR5 when I completely restored it six years ago.It was explained to me that the petrol tank is part of the bodywork structure and alloy tanks will flex resulting in cracking around the welds/flanges.I notice the fixing points are now rubber mounted so I guess the issues have been addressed.I fitted an off/on tap to the outlet so I could easely service the fuel pump and pre filter.I have the tell tale glass pre pre filter and can tell at a glance when it starts to crud up.

Works brilliant,just clean out and away you go.

Regards Harry TR5 Nutter.

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Thanks as always guys

 

I had the oportunity today to give the car a good run, guess what, the filter is full of crud again! Whilst I didnt have any running issues, its obvious in time I would again.

 

So the tank has to come out and as I never intend selling the car, an ally tank it is, although this wont obviously solve crud in the fuel.

 

Cheers Carl

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks as always guys

 

I had the oportunity today to give the car a good run, guess what, the filter is full of crud again! Whilst I didnt have any running issues, its obvious in time I would again.

 

So the tank has to come out and as I never intend selling the car, an ally tank it is, although this wont obviously solve crud in the fuel.

 

Cheers Carl

 

Hi Carl

 

Do you fancy having two specially made, ie larger size, coz I've been thinking about it for some time. pee'd off by having to fill up every 220 miles.

 

Dave B

Ps where were you on Weds?

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Hi Dave

 

Would be interested, I guess others would be also, I guess if we could get more people interested we could get the price down? CTM engineering have been in touch, they are making a new batch in stainless for £395 + vat. I am waiting for Stumpy to let me know what he wants for a stainless tank he has in his shed.

 

Wewdnesday I was in London with work as usual.

 

Cheers Carl

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi Carl

sorry for the delay I've been out and about for a few days not least at the european. Re the tank I was thinking of having one made. I know somebody locally who has the facilitys to make ally tanks. I'm sure we could get a couple of extra gallons in, very usefull on long european trips especially when others have a tank range 75 miles greater than my 5.

let me know what you think. I'm off to Portugal in the morning but will be at the meet a week next weds.

 

Dave B

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Hi

Check Andy Wiltshire webpage. He maks super tanks (larger capacity than standard) and has excellent service. No connections just satisfied customer.

http://www.andywiltshire.com/web%20site%20tank%20page.htm

 

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi Dave

If you order a tank from Andy I suggest you make a template or measurements of where the fasteners on the original tank are.

(If you can't let him have the original then..)

 

 

 

/PIAA

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I fitted an off/on tap to the outlet so I could easely service the fuel pump and pre filter

Interesting. I asked Malcolm why he didn't fit a tap - I have to use a brake hose clamp - he said he hasn't found one that doesn't leak.

Apparently they're OK until turned off, then when turned on again they leak from the gland. He said all the taps are designed for regular use, on bikes for example, and the glands won't tolerate being in the same position for months on end.

But I guess you've had no problem with yours, so you've something to teach him. :P

 

Ivor

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Interesting. I asked Malcolm why he didn't fit a tap - I have to use a brake hose clamp - he said he hasn't found one that doesn't leak.

Apparently they're OK until turned off, then when turned on again they leak from the gland. He said all the taps are designed for regular use, on bikes for example, and the glands won't tolerate being in the same position for months on end.

But I guess you've had no problem with yours, so you've something to teach him. :P

 

Ivor

 

Fitted mine in 2000,all supplied by Malcolm and the Tap that was supplied has never leaked, it has also been used on and off on many occasions.
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