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Kevin Warrington

self actuating horn

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I hope this isn't too dumb a question...

 

My 6 has developed a habit of sounding the horn without the horn button being pushed. It has a Mota-Lita wheel and boss and the connection to the contact in the centre horn push is well insulated. The usual scenario is pressure on the steering wheel, for example when braking a little harder than usual. I've removed the horn push entirely to eliminate this as a cause and still if I press around the edge of the steering wheel hard enough, the horn will sound.

 

I suspect that there is a short to ground somewhere. Is this a common problem and where are the obvious places to look first? I've not taken the wheel boss off yet...

 

Kevin

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Hi Kevin

Had the same problem and cured it by pulling te column out a little so the boss didn,t catch on the column casing.

I also changed the column bushes to stop the play which was the real problem.

Mark

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Hi Kevin, have a look at the gap between the wheel boss and the fixed part of the column below it. This gap needs to be a minimum of about 2mm to avoid the horn sounding when the column is depressed, these two parts must not touch.To increase the gap release the clamp on the column under the bonnet ( the one with two bolts one side and a grub screw and locking nut the other) and move the wheel away from the fixed column the desired distance. Make sure you retighten the clamp (see further details in the workshop manual).

Best Regards Chris

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Hi Kevin

Had the same problem and cured it by pulling te column out a little so the boss didn,t catch on the column casing.

I also changed the column bushes to stop the play which was the real problem.

Mark

 

 

Ditto,

 

This problem is very annoying and embarasing as Alanwcoote

is fully aware. :rolleyes:

 

Cheers

Guy

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Thanks, chaps - there is some play in the steering column if I pull hard on it, so that could well be the cause of my problem. It is embarrassing - yesterday , I came around a bend on a country lane and was confronted with the rear end of a large horse which required a rapid application of the brakes so I could go past slowly and quietly to avoid spooking the horse. The whole effort was totally defeated by the horn sounding:o .

 

Kevin (Hornblower)

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Hi Kevin,

if you have fore/aft movement on the steer shaft, check at the front end of the outer shaft that the clamp is snug and check all the

splined UJ's that they are tight.

The 6 normally has metal UJs and are usually OK.

The earlier cars have the rubber doughnuts and due to the design can't be tightened enough - especially the front/lower UJ.

 

Roger

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Dear Horatio Hornblower Kevin

 

The cost of the 2 metal UJs is very small and replacing them can have a marked effect on the steering even if they are slightly worn, dont forget to check the splines on the column and at the same time change the UJ fixing and locating bolts. If you have a rubber UJ on the steering remove it and replace it with the metal type

 

Cheers

 

Alan

Edited by Kiwifrog

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I hope this isn't too dumb a question...

 

My 6 has developed a habit of sounding the horn without the horn button being pushed. It has a Mota-Lita wheel and boss and the connection to the contact in the centre horn push is well insulated. The usual scenario is pressure on the steering wheel, for example when braking a little harder than usual. I've removed the horn push entirely to eliminate this as a cause and still if I press around the edge of the steering wheel hard enough, the horn will sound.

 

I suspect that there is a short to ground somewhere. Is this a common problem and where are the obvious places to look first? I've not taken the wheel boss off yet...

 

Kevin

 

hi mate sounds like your relay as i had this happen to me easy to change rod

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Thanks Guy

What your problem is the wheel boss is rubbing against the brass contact plate underneth it. Take off the wheel and boss and file the outer edge of the boss down. This is trial and error cos you will need to keep checking clearence of brass ring to boss whilst moving the steering wheel lock to lock as there will be some movment (wear) in the colume.

I strongly erge you at this time not to drive along Skegness seafront trying to look the dog nads and eyeing up the toty and make a total t**t of yourself by piping every 20 yards !!!!!!!

 

Alan

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Ditto,

 

This problem is very annoying and embarasing as Alanwcoote

is fully aware. :rolleyes:

 

Cheers

Guy

 

 

That happened to me once after a mate "FIXED" the horn.

Had to go to MOT like that "shake your steering" TOOT TOOT TOOT !

 

 

The soloution is to wave at someone every time horn toots, see the bewilderd look on their faces. WHO THE FXXX WAS THAT ?

Edited by gt6s

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The problem first started en route to Classic Le Mans last month. Driving through a small town in rural Normandy, a little old lady stepped out onto a pedestrian crossing. As I slowed to let her cross, the pressure on the steering wheel sounded the horn. What she said sounded very not in keeping with her appearance. At least they are only the original style twin-tones, not air horns.

 

Anyway - lots of useful pointers to where the problem might lie - and talking to some other Wessex Group members today, it seems that self-actuating horns are almost a built in feature of our cars. At least the MOT test is only that the horn works

 

Kevin

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Replying to own posting is a bit like talking to yourself - but I do that all the time....

 

Removed the steering wheel and boss (which was extremely tight) and inserted a home made, plastic insulating washer (cut from a plastic milk container - thanks to Pete Bailey for his suggestion) between the boss and the top of the column, heaving only the brass button being able to contact the ring. Reassembled and it all works fine now.

 

Took the car for a test drive around the Meon Valley as there was a bright spell amongst the rain, just to check it really was fixed. Along the way, the fuel & temperature gauges stopped working, the alarm armed itself, the indicators and the brake lights all stopped working. Obviously, the fuse as they are all common. Drove home relying on hand signals, removed the fuse I thought was responsible, metered it and it was fine. Checked the other fuse - it was OK too. Now everythng is working as it should. Removed the fuse, checked it more carefully and found one of the end caps was loose and both ends were showing signs of corrosion. I suspect that going over a bump had dislodged a mechanically failing fuse. I've had this happen a lot with wire fuses, but never with the type that have a solid strip inside the glass segment.

 

Next task to replace all the rear light gaskets with nice new ones I bought at Malvern. Old ones are like thin cardboard and are letting much from the road and exhaust into the lenses.

 

Kevin

 

 

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