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Clutch not quite disengaging...


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How much free-play do you have at the pushrod/ slave?

There should be very little: You can get threaded pushrods that are adjustable to dial-out the play (if it's excessive).

I've one on my TR4 and have had no probs with it.

 

Running out of ideas now... :blink:

Adey

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I thought my dad was alone in his geekness over his car....

 

Turns out there are loads of you!

 

Hannah Needham :-)

 

 

Apologies to anyone out there who is of a sensitive nature. I was at my daughter's house over the weekend and logged on to her computer and didn't log off.

 

Kids don't have no respect nowadays!

 

Rgds Ian

 

PS she is married to a geek but his just happens to be over computers so she has no room to scoff - she readily accepts that his eyes take on a glazed and faraway look when he is talking about them!

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How much free-play do you have at the pushrod/ slave?

There should be very little: You can get threaded pushrods that are adjustable to dial-out the play (if it's excessive).

I've one on my TR4 and have had no probs with it.

 

And I have the Revington adjustable pushrod on my 6, plus 0.75" Revington master, the clutch disengages with about 1" of pedal movement.

 

So a new master need not be your last shot, you still have the adjustable pushrod.....

 

Ivor

 

PS agree with Alec about eBay stuff, buy cheap buy twice. Been there....

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This is the way I have found best working on my own...

 

To Remove;

 

 

  • Jack up the front of the car so you can safely get beneath it to undo bolts and insert a trolley jack under the engine.

 

 

  • Undo all of the fixings at the driveshaft end of the gearbox and around the bell housing (leave a couple in place on the bell housing).

 

 

  • Jack up the engine using a piece of wood to spread the load at the sump plug end - remove the gearbox mount.

 

 

  • Lower the engine / gearbox to its normal position to allow the gearbox to go past the bulkhead and heater - place a hammer handle (or simular sized piece of wood) below the drive shaft end of the gearbox but on top of the two floor pans to take some of the load.

 

 

  • Remove the last few bolts from the bell housing and pull the gearbox free - at the same time turning the clutch control arm downwards to enable you to place it onto the floorpan.

 

 

To Reinstall;

 

 

  • Straddling the drive shaft and carefully lift the gearbox back into place with the control arm facing downwards to allow it to go past the floorpan.

 

 

  • MAKE SURE IT IS IN GEAR. Rotate the gearbox and wiggle it until it slots into place.

 

 

The above breaks a few rules and I do not recommend doing it on your own.

Edited by randall977
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About as bad as the rocker oil feed to the head :D on a std car

 

Around 9,000 miles so far, so whatever is 'wrong' with this is keeping a low profile :P

 

Ivor

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Re the rocker oil feed, watch for major oil leaks at the left rear corner of the head gasket. Ask me how I know... :angry:

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Got my new 'made in China' master cylinder from Moss only to find once fitted that it was faulty. Went to my local Triumph specialist (Manor Garage Wantage) where they had a refurbished master clinder, which, when fitted worked perfectly!

 

So my clutch now works - horray!

 

Thank you for all of your advice and patience - now to finish the car!

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Congatulations - victory at last :lol: . Original parts, when you can find them, work best. Repros, unfortunately, are about 50/50. All's well that ends well, and enjoy the driving.

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Well done Christian,

 

I have been waiting to find out 'who dunnit' since your origonal post, it is bit like a Ruth Rendall mystery ;) you must be pleased at the result but not quite so happy about the cause

 

Cheers

 

Alan

Edited by Kiwifrog
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Thanks. Well the clutch is much better than if I had used the existign cross shaft as it was bent but the slave, clutch and pressure plate were fine (now on eBay!). Shame I got a dodgy master, my own fault really! Drove the car up and down the drive - all seems fine! :)

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