Andrew Smith Posted August 14, 2010 Report Share Posted August 14, 2010 TuRK has had an O/D leak for some time now and whilst it's not caused any major problems (other than more than the usual territory marking) I'm getting fed up with having to keep topping the gearbox up and all hassle that involves. So, I stripped out the interior and tunnel this morning (again) to locate where its coming from (having always thought it was leaking was the gearbox and O/D drain plugs, a gasket or hoping it was just the rear oil seal) and discovered it's actually leaking from the valve adjusting shaft/lever on the RH side of the O/D, so I guess there must be some wear on the shaft as I can't see from the workshop manual or the parts book if there's an oil seal there? Is this an easy fix with the gearbox and O/D in situ or a box out jobbie and a pain in the backside? Cheers Andrew Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dean Posted August 14, 2010 Report Share Posted August 14, 2010 There is an O ring behind the little leaver. Drive out the split pin, remove the leaver and replace the o ring. Not easy but I have done it in the car. Dean Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andrew Smith Posted August 14, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 14, 2010 (edited) Thanks Dean, It's not shown in either the parts book of the Moss catalogue (not that I can see anyway) which makes life difficult - do you have a part number and/or a supplier? Cheers Andrew Edited August 14, 2010 by Andrew Smith Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dean Posted August 14, 2010 Report Share Posted August 14, 2010 The part # is 500594. The same o ring is used on each end. The parts books only show the solenoid side. It is under the side cover on the solenoid side. Requires removing the solenoid and cover. If not leaking on that side I would leave that until you need to be in there for another reason. Love that OD, keep that fluid clean and filter clean and it will last for years. Dean Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andrew Smith Posted August 14, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 14, 2010 Thanks Dean - PM sent. Cheers Andrew Quote Link to post Share on other sites
vivdownunder Posted August 14, 2010 Report Share Posted August 14, 2010 Hi Andrew, It's important that the supplier sends you the exact sized # 500594 - o ring, rather than close enough. Compare it with the one taken out before fitting. A wrong o ring can cause too much friction for the solenoid to overcome, and the O/D then operates in delayed time, or not at all. Moss has them listed. But if out of stock, most bearing suppliers carry o rings and hopefully could match the old one. Regards, Viv. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andrew Smith Posted August 14, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 14, 2010 Thanks Viv, I’ve emailed to Overdrive Repair Services (http://www.overdrive-repairs.co.uk/) as although Moss supply can the 500594 O Ring they only list 'call' for the Mills Pin, so I'm guessing they can't supply it? That said, I suppose if push came to shove I could probably reuse the old one. But in any event, no one is going to get rich on this order! Cheers Andrew Quote Link to post Share on other sites
littlejim Posted August 16, 2010 Report Share Posted August 16, 2010 Not too sure I will be satifacted by the ed hardy products, think I'll stick with Moss. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mjdearing Posted August 16, 2010 Report Share Posted August 16, 2010 Hi Andrew let us know how easy the O ring is fitted, sounds like it fits in a recess or is it just trapped in when the lever is refitted. I have shy'd off this job for years but likewise fed up of topping the box up. Martin. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted August 16, 2010 Report Share Posted August 16, 2010 Hi Andrew let us know how easy the O ring is fitted, sounds like it fits in a recess or is it just trapped in when the lever is refitted. I have shy'd off this job for years but likewise fed up of topping the box up. Martin. It does fit in to a slight recess. Care must be taken to ensure the sizing is exactly correct as otherwise the drag on the arm will sometimes stop the overdrive dis-engaging.(Dont ask how I know that ) Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andrew Smith Posted August 16, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 16, 2010 I believe the replacement 'O' ring would have been straight forward enough, BUT I have another problem now! Whilst just checking that all the nuts holding the OD to the gearbox were tight (as I also had some slight weeping from gaskets too) I managed to shear off one of the bolts (latent metal fatigue?) - now I have a big oil leak and the gearbox will have to come out! So, out with the OD gearbox this weekend and I’ll have to drop in TuRK’s original non-OD box which I still have and has been out of the car since about 1970 – still, it worked when it came out (so I’m told) so hopefully it will get me to Little Gransden during the Bank Holiday weekend and out and about until the OD box is sorted? Fingers crossed! Cheers Andrew Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Don Elliott Posted August 16, 2010 Report Share Posted August 16, 2010 Andrew - While you have it out, check that the adaptor plate sandwiched between the gear-box and the O/D is not cracked. They can become fragile whilst torquring on the bolt you snapped. A crack in the aluminium adapter plate can cause one super oil leak. Don't ask how I know. I bought my new one at "The TR Shop" in Chiswick in 1987. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
vivdownunder Posted August 16, 2010 Report Share Posted August 16, 2010 Geez Hercules, what a bummer. Takes me back to when I last snapped an exhaust manifold stud. I too thought metal fatigue but the wife said mental fatigue. Regards, Viv. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted August 16, 2010 Report Share Posted August 16, 2010 Andrew Pm me for a phone number that will be able to sort it .......... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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