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I'm a TR6 novice and have been looking at previous postings about priming the injectors. I started mine today after not using it for a week. It eventually started but churned over loads and loads before firing. When it eventually started (on full choke) it just burst into life without any spluttering or misfiring and then runs like a dream. The battery is 4 years old so I'm going to treat myself to a new heavy duty one on the assumption that faster cranking will help matters. When it's running it runs really well and thereafter starts 'on the button' when warm. Is this fairly normal for a TR6 that's not run for a while? I'm assuming that if (after eventially starting) that it runs well, that no priming/bleeding is necessary?  ???
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It sounds like you have a blockage of some sort somewhere in the fuel tank/line/pump/injectors.  Once the engine starts and flow begins, the dirt, sediment or whatever just keeps swirling around and the engine runs fine.  But when you turn off the engine and the sediment settles, - well - it sounds like this sediment settles down somewhere and is setting you up for the next difficult start.

 

Don Elliott, Original Owner, 1958 TR3A (with twin SU carbs)

Montreal, Canada, TR Register member since 1987

http://mysite.freeserve.com/trebor/don3a_big.JPG

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Seems to be a common Pi thing , before I took mine to bits I renewed the pi system completely but found that ,as with most , to start it first time straight away you have to get the fuel pressure up. It only takes about 5 - 10 secs . When you get in the car turn the ignition on so the pump is working , by the time you have your seatbelt on it should be ready for an instant start .
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Bill, You might check the connection of the choke cable to the metering unit. It does not necessarily say that choke is set when applying the knob. You probably know injection cars have a twin choke cable, one connected to the metering unit.

Make sure that there is not too much slack on the metering unit side and that the clip retaining the sleeve is well in position. If not, there will be not much action at the M.U. side.

Depending the general condition of the injection system, fuel pressure might drop in the injector pipes after a few days and a certain delay in engine starting may occur, but it should fire after a short cranking. Realize that injectors only open after the necessary fuel amount/pressure is present.

A good battery is paramount for injection cars. With a poor battery cranking the engine can draw all the current available and there will be little left to drive the high pressure fuel pump.  

Jean

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Bill,

I don’t think you have any problems with the PI system at all, in fact if it runs on all 6 as soon as it fires you are doing better than most! The poor cold starting may be down to electrics, what ignition system do you have fitted? If it’s not electronic consider getting one but in the meantime make sure that coil, leads, plugs, points, cap, rotor, & condenser are all in good condition. They are so cheap I used to replace mine every 6K miles anyway (not coil & leads) & this helps keep the voltage up (for a decent spark) when cold cranking the engine, I also use the heaviest duty battery available. As Scotty says, always let the pump run for around 10 seconds before attempting to start & go for deliberate short bursts rather than sustained churning & I always use the throttle as soon as it kicks  in, don’t forget it’s not a modern car where you just turn the key & the ECU takes over.

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How about thinking simple! Could the injectors be loosing fuel pressure slowly. When it is cold you need a long time to start and when it is warm they still have some pressure left? Just try some new injectors and start the car and the season well.
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How about thinking simple! Could the injectors be loosing fuel pressure slowly. When it is cold you need a long time to start and when it is warm they still have some pressure left? Just try some new injectors and start the car and the season well.

Could be, but metering unit seals letting by or duff injectors usually causes the engine to spit & fart on 3 or 4 injectors initially before they all kick in. If Bill's engine fires up on all 6 as he says, I would have a good look at the electrics first.

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Thanks for all your helpful suggestions. The ignition system is in very good order (not electronic) and recently serviced. PI system also seems very sound having had replacement alloy tank, recon metering unit and Bosch pump conversion etc in recent times. I am guilty of jumping in and cranking the starter straight away, so I'll try giving the pump a few seconds next time. The battery has seen better days as the engine turns more slowly than it ought despite 4 days connected to a battery conditioner.

 

Hopefully the combination of a new heavy duty battery and giving the pump a bit of time to prime the system will improve things - a new battery in my other toy (82 Alfa Spider) made a world of difference albeit with Bosch electronic PI. I'll let you know.

 

Can anybody recommend a good battery? Will good-old Halfords do or is it best to go for an original type from Moss/Rimmers?

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Thanks for all your helpful suggestions. The ignition system is in very good order (not electronic) and recently serviced. PI system also seems very sound having had replacement alloy tank, recon metering unit and Bosch pump conversion etc in recent times. I am guilty of jumping in and cranking the starter straight away, so I'll try giving the pump a few seconds next time. The battery has seen better days as the engine turns more slowly than it ought despite 4 days connected to a battery conditioner.

 

Hopefully the combination of a new heavy duty battery and giving the pump a bit of time to prime the system will improve things - a new battery in my other toy (82 Alfa Spider) made a world of difference albeit with Bosch electronic PI. I'll let you know.

 

Can anybody recommend a good battery? Will good-old Halfords do or is it best to go for an original type from Moss/Rimmers?

it may also be the starter is "gummed  " up with 30 years of muck. If a new battery does not quicken it , take it out , strip it , oil it & put it back together . This can be done with simple tools takes a couple of hours & makes a world of difference. So much so I did not have to get a new battery when I did mine even though the symptoms suggested I should.

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Mine usually takes about 20 seconds to start (I never use the cold start), but at least the oil is circulated and the pressure up.   The newer hi-torque starters are said to improve things.   For a cheaper and better battery, go to your local motor factors eg. Partco etc. rather than Halfords.
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Hello Bill

 

For what it's worth - they all have a mind of their own and perform as such.  I switch on - leave pump working for twenty or so seconds - crank starter in very short bursts and right foot it as soon as some sort of firing seems evident - hey presto!  Eventually you will become an expert on your own starter procedure - you have good advice here from some clever guys.  I never crank my starter for more than two/three seconds at a time - it is counter productive. As Richard says - check your electrics - and timing.

 

Cheers

 

Phil

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Can anybody recommend a good battery? Will good-old Halfords do or is it best to go for an original type from Moss/Rimmers?

If you want a good original looking hard rubber battery with exposed terminals try Lincoln Batteries of Southend - 01702 525374. Good service, an original looking battery on the outside but with modern internals but not at the fancy prices some charge, if you get my drift!

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Success - I've treated myself to a new battery and now leave ignition on for approx 15 secs before cranking and it fires up almost instantly from cold! Thanks for all your advice, particularly the need to give the system some time to prime before attempting to start.

 

For info - I'm using an off-the-shelf battery intended for a Landrover Discovery. Correct terminal configuration and fits neatly into available space and chunky enough to cold crank a 2.5 ltr diesel, so ideal for an electrically demanding TR6.

 

Here's hoping for a summer of trouble free motoring (when I've got the non functioning speedo sorted)

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Hi Bill

Could you tell me the make and model number of the battery you got and the price if you don't mind. A Landrover Discovery battery sounds a really good idea to me. The batteries I get recommended by the major battery/tyre suppliers just seem to get smaller and smaller and don't last as long as I think they should.

Many thanks

Les

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