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Lost door catch!!


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My near side door was shutting but would not open without a gentle push on the door to release the catch. The chaps i use to do the repairs said he thought it might be the locking mechanism. I have just had one delivered from TR Shop(great service by the way)and I have fitted it myself.(this is quite an achievement for me) Unfortunately I was not been able to get the door to close properly so I began adjusting the retaining catch but no matter where I put it the door would not shut properly.

 

Then i thought lets unscrew the retaining catch to have a look and as I did it I was surprised to find that the back plate has fell down inside the panel presumably into the sill. Ouch!!... How on earth do i manage to retrieve this part and put it back on the car as it appears to be closed off? Surely they didn't fit this catch and then build the car around it? Is there access under the car?

 

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

Cheers

 

Chris

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Hi Chris,

they did indeed start off with this plate and put the car around it.

It should be attached (loosely but retained) on the rear face of the front of the B post.

 

Luckily it will not have fallen into the sill but is residing at the bottom of the B post.

 

How to retrieve - not easy. The only thing you can do (I think) is to cut a hole into the rear of the B post.

Normally the B post is covered by side wall panelling so a hole will not notice.

 

If you put the hole at the same height as the position where you need it then refitting will be easy.

 

Go for it.

 

Roger

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  • 9 years later...

Won't work it will be inside the hollow B post.

Thinking about the issue, think I would cut the section behind the striker plate, fold that outwards,

then fish up the retaining plate with a magnet. You then need to repair the cage that holds the retaining plate, fold back the cut section and weld carefully back up.

Careful welding and grinding back, MIGHT, mean that nothing or little is visible once the lock mechanism is replaced, just some thoughts.

John.

 

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As per Johns post. Cut a 2" x 2" hole in the rear of the B post at the same height as where it should fit on the front face.

Once put back in place fold the flap back in place and tack weld. As it is covered by the upholstery it will not show.

 

Roger

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Magnet will stick to everything but the plate!!  .... I've tried ..... a big hole as has been suggested and one of those flexible grabbie things, even then the plate somehow seems to wedge it's self in the most difficult place!!, ...... actually I took a dislike to the plated repair patch idea and replaced the complete back, the panels available fit well and you have the opportunity to fully fix the backing plate retainer.

Happy New Year and

Cheers Rob

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A cunning plan is needed...here it is...I think.

 As Rogers post cut a flap (I'd make it easier to get in with a 3" square flap) level with the front retaining catch position and fish out the retaining plate from the bottom of the B post cavity. The larger hole access will allow a curved stiff magnet holding rod which is easier to prevent being attracted to everything you don't want.

Whilst you have the retaining backplate out drill through the securing holes in the back plate you've just recovered if they are blind, if not even better,  with a dia drill just under the screw threaded overall dia. Then get securing screws for the backplate about 12mm overlength to those used currently, and file down (or use a lathe if you have one) the threaded end into a dia (roughly , not important) enough so it will protrude through the back plate when screwed into position holding the front of B post retaining catch by about 4 or 5 mm.

Fit the retaining catch from the front of the B post in it's normal position, push the longer securing screws through it and the B post and into the threaded backplate (held by you through the cut out and bent down flapin position...don't drop it) and screw through until the longer screws are fully into the threaded back plate with the filed down diameter's poking through the back of the plate. Then use some washers with a large enough internal hole to just push over the roughly filed diameters on the securing screws and through the cut out and bent down flap tack weld with a MIG into position. Now you have screws with their own individual securing plates (the washers) behind the B post retaining plates securing them from being unscrewed too far and departing into the bottom of the B post. Also because you've not touched the front of the B post either cutting or welding it grinding down weld or repainting will not be required.

Reweld the 3" flap back into position on the back of the B post, and finish off with paint and underseal or your chosen anti rust method (I'd spray the inside of the B post with Waxoyl or whatever you use) and then refit the wing and the jobs done. 

Mick Richards

Edited by Motorsport Mickey
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Hello All,

For anyone who has yet to remove items like the catch plate and don’t want to end up in the same situation (with the threaded plate disappearing) do this:

First obtain two lengths of threaded rod the same thread as the screws you need to remove and about 3 inches long.

Remove just one of the screws that hold the plate in place and replace it with one of the pieces of screwed rod.

Then remove another screw and replace it with the second piece of screwed rod.

Then remove any other screws needed to free the plate.

 

Because the threaded rods stick out so much you can hold onto them and pull the plate off without fear of the threaded plate falling inside the “B” post.

When the outer plate is removed simply put a nut on the end of the screwed rods to keep them from falling, until you need to refit the front plate.

 

I’ve used this method on my side screen car door hinges (even though the threaded plates are fairly easy to get at.), so I know it works.


Charlie.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I managed to fish the plate out with two magnets. No need for cutting holes or anything :-). I was very glad when the plate appeared in front of one of the square holes in the B post. It was hanging upside down so it took me a while to get it in the right position (this included dropping the plate back in the B post again, but I could quickly fish it out again). Big learning! Now need to figure out how to get my door aligned, it is sticking out about 1 cm at the rear and the door adjustment was the whole objective of my fooling around. Are there any good tips/threads on proper aligning of a door?

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Hello Robert

Glad you have recovered the door plate.

Re alignement - as Roger says a fiddly job. When I was trying to line up my drivers door I slightly loosened the hinge bolts and door catch so I was able to push and pull the door into position. I also loosened the bolts holding the front end of the rear wing because that can move in and out a bit as well. If the various bolts are not too loose then you can then open the door once it is in line and do up the bolts. It may also then be necessary with a hammer and piece of wood to 'adjust' the lip of the door opening to get the furflex to fit properly. There is also some in/out movement on the rear edge of the front wing. It may also be necessary to add or subtract from the packing between the rear of the body shell and the chassis.

Once you have the door in the best fit you can achieve then wind up the windows and look at the gap between the glass and the windscreen. Again there is some adjustment on the brackets under the dashboard each side that hold the windscreen on. Curved spanners are useful to get at the nuts holding these brackets. Altering the angle of the windscreen will then have altered slightly the fit of the hood, surrey or hard top so that might need some adjustment as well. 

It's all a bit like a giant Rubik's cube. 

Good luck

Keith

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