front suspension

[david ferry]

I would have thought that it's rather important for the adjustability to be smooth, rather than in steps.

 

It's vital to ensure that the fulcrum is securely fixed and cannot move under stress.

 

If Chris's idea were to be used, the 'teeth' would need to be fine to ensure smooth(ish) adjustability, which may then compromise security of the fulcrum under stress.

 

Aren't we trying to invent the wheel as there are tried and tested solutions from Revington TR (Moss and Bastuck), along with Racetorations.

 

David

Edited October 15, 2010 by david ferry

[Badfrog]

I agree with David there.

The adjustable arm from Racetorations and the negative camber link from Moss or others are of excellent design and largely enough for a general/mild rallye competition use.

Conversely, I don't support the complicated adjustable upper gizmo (Revington, Moss). I think it is less interesting due to mandatory inner wing cutting plus welding of the mounting. The clone made by Greasybuildup may be a good option (if manufactured in large quantity with associated reasonable cost) since only welding is required.

 

Anyways, the neg links go in tomorrow. I will report.

 

Cheers,

 

Badfrog

[Ade-TR4]

Badfrog,

make sure you re-check your toe-in settings after fitting!

(don't ask how I know this...)

Enjoy

Ade

[MadMarx]

For the racing people it is mandatory to respect the racing rules as they say no unibal joints if they weren't in use at that car at that time.

 

The other solutions are made to weld in and are not adjustable after welding.

 

I'm not sure if smoothness of the adjustment is needed for camber. It doesn't matter if you have 1.5 degree or 1.3 or 1.7.

 

You won't feel the difference with the high profile tires we use.

 

Cheers

Chris

[Badfrog]

Badfrog,

make sure you re-check your toe-in settings after fitting!

(don't ask how I know this...)

Enjoy

Ade

 

 

 

You bet !! Makes good sense.

 

Badfrog

[Badfrog]

I'm not sure if smoothness of the adjustment is needed for camber. It doesn't matter if you have 1.5 degree or 1.3 or 1.7.

You won't feel the difference with the high profile tires we use.

Cheers

Chris

 

 

 

I agree. The bottom line is to change the camber to respect the change in tyre reaction between nylon plies and steel radials. hence the easy solution of the fixed neg link.

 

Badfrog

[Badfrog]

Hi all,

 

I took Lady Ann to Valenciennes yesterday, so that Chris59 would take care of the front axle. You won't be surprised that the starter motor started to break loose on the freeway. Juice backfeed cable jumped off and there I was, silent as a bird...

A bit of tarmac crawling and repair got me safely at destination, with black hands, dusty pants and a mosquito-ridden upperlip. Nothing special.

 

Badfrog

[Kiwifrog]

Hi all,

 

I took Lady Ann to Valenciennes yesterday, so that Chris59 would take care of the front axle. You won't be surprised that the starter motor started to break loose on the freeway. Juice backfeed cable jumped off and there I was, silent as a bird...

A bit of tarmac crawling and repair got me safely at destination, with black hands, dusty pants and a mosquito-ridden upperlip. Nothing special.

 

Badfrog

 

 

 

Its what british cars are best at, falling apart at the most unexpected moments. Have just repaired the starter motor on the MGB after the lazy solenoid gave up the ghost. An hours cleaning soldering and putting back together and was good to go. At least they are repairable at the roadside using lump hammers bits of wire and chewing gum also known as Origonal spec materiels if they are Leyland built

 

Alan