spiro Posted April 28, 2004 Report Share Posted April 28, 2004 just bleed the clutch system and found that I am not getting full travel on the clutch fork lever arm. The piston on the slave clynder is set right back and I have extened the rod but still no joy, it feels as the master cylinder can`t supply enough fluid to the slave. All the parts are new, car is at the end of its major restoration. (had clutch problem before the car was stripped) I have seen other TR`s with the slave cylinder spaced outwards. Is this a common fault also is there anyother type of cylinders I could try. Any ideas anyone Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richard Crawley Posted April 28, 2004 Report Share Posted April 28, 2004 spiro, clutch problems are, unfortunately, a common problem & it comes up on the forum every couple of months or so: So, first look back & read the 6 forum previous posts for guidance on what causes it & what to do about it. Try not to extend, shim or re-drill things in an effort to cure the problem as it really is not the answer. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest harry dent Posted April 28, 2004 Report Share Posted April 28, 2004 Spiro, As Richard said check former post,s.Have you looked at the clutch pedal arm to master cylinder push rod for wear in this area. A simple fix is to drill out to 3/8" and fit the same size clevis pin.If you do not have 5/8" movement on the slave cylinder push rod suspect a broken pin on the cross shaft.Have you checked that your thrust washers are the correct clearance 6-8 thou on the crankshaft.Is the slave cylinder bleed nipple on the top side as you will not bleed it upside down due to trapped air.Faulty master cylinder and or pipe leading to slave cylinder. Clutch cover the wrong type? Regards Harry. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tim_trinda Posted April 29, 2004 Report Share Posted April 29, 2004 spiro Have a look at the Buckeye Triumphs web-site, there is a whole section on clutches. Good luck Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter Douglas Winn Posted April 29, 2004 Report Share Posted April 29, 2004 I went down this road some years ago with the same symtoms. After a garage (a relative's, which was very embarassing) did a rebore, the clutch did not work properly. To my expense we found out that the thrust washers for the crank had dropped out and every time the clutch pedal was used, the crank bored itself a bit more into the block. Result a new engine. So just in case please check your crank endfloat. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tom Fremont Posted April 29, 2004 Report Share Posted April 29, 2004 At the risk of preaching to the converted, it were well to absolutely minimize the time the clutch pedal is depressed on these cars. That means putting it in neutral each time we stop ( rather than holding the pedal down until the light turns green ), etc. Practicing this religiously for the last 30 years on TRs I've never had a problem with thrust washers, putting well in excess of 100,000 miles on them and still no excess end float. The method can even extend to shifting into neutral without de-clutching whilst the drive is momentarily unloaded.... ??? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ron Posted April 29, 2004 Report Share Posted April 29, 2004 Spiro If you have a 0.7" master cylinder it would be worth your while changing to a 0.75" master cyl from an early car as this gives a better clutch action albeit at the expense of a slightly heavier pedal. Ron Quote Link to post Share on other sites
spiro Posted May 4, 2004 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2004 thanks for replies, did have some luck by re-bleeding the system again with fresh fluid instead of what I had on the shelf. Got a better pedal but it could still do with a bit more. As I said before all parts are new including engine rebuild. I might try what Ron said and try a 0.75 master cylinder (did have a poor pedal before car restoration.) :rock: Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tom Fremont Posted May 4, 2004 Report Share Posted May 4, 2004 SpiroIf you have a 0.7" master cylinder it would be worth your while changing to a 0.75" master cyl from an early car as this gives a better clutch action albeit at the expense of a slightly heavier pedal. Ron This is probably why, having just switched out an entire engine/gearbox assembly with clutch slave cylinder attached, marrying to an early type master cylinder, the pedal releases the clutch near the top of the stroke instead of mid-way. ( First time in my experience having the release point so high. ) Not likely due to differences in linkage slop, so by deduction it would have to be the master cylinder! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
spiro Posted May 5, 2004 Author Report Share Posted May 5, 2004 It does feel that the master cylinder has bottomed out and that the slave cylinder could do with more fluid delivered to it. Thats why I asked if there was an alternative master cylinder available. I assume that a 0.75 master cylinder will do this, yes? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tom Fremont Posted May 5, 2004 Report Share Posted May 5, 2004 Doing the math yields 14.7% volume increase, therefore the same increase in stroke for the slave cylinder. Can anyone confirm whether the larger master cylinder is still available? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andy Moltu Posted May 6, 2004 Report Share Posted May 6, 2004 If the clutch is still not fully disengaging with a 0.70 master it suggest there is a problem & swapping to a 0.75 might make an improvement but won't solve the problem - unless the master cylinder itself was the fault! (The clutch should fully disengage with the 0.7 mastercylinder) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richard Crawley Posted May 6, 2004 Report Share Posted May 6, 2004 The clutch should fully disengage with the 0.7 mastercylinder I agree with Andy. Fitting the earlier 0.75 cylinder is only masking the problem really. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ron Posted May 6, 2004 Report Share Posted May 6, 2004 My clutch did fully disengage with the .7" cylinder it was just too near the floor for my liking, so I tried a .75" cylinder and the release point is now further up and to my liking. Remember the car was originally designed with a .75" master cyl, they only changed it to to .7" to suit customers with weak left legs!! Tom,The larger master cylinder was still available last year, I think I got it from Moss UK. Ron Quote Link to post Share on other sites
spiro Posted May 7, 2004 Author Report Share Posted May 7, 2004 Its at the very bottom end of the pedal as Ron said and that`s before I have the carpet and felt fitted hence my concern:rock: Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richard Crawley Posted May 7, 2004 Report Share Posted May 7, 2004 Its at the very bottom end of the pedal as Ron said and that`s before I have the carpet and felt fitted hence my concern:rock: Mine is running the 0.7 cylinder & clutch action is perfect; firm but not excessive & dis/engages around half way up travel. But I have made certain that it’s all set up properly (the dreaded taper pin) & absolutely nothing is worn, including the cross shaft bearings which, maybe, some neglect to check/change! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JohnC Posted May 9, 2004 Report Share Posted May 9, 2004 Richard, Likewise! I even went as far as fitting two bushes at each end of the cross shaft in the hope that I'll never have to remove it again My one remaining potential trouble spot is the pedal box. Everything's fine so far, but I expect that's where play will appear next. John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richard Crawley Posted May 10, 2004 Report Share Posted May 10, 2004 My one remaining potential trouble spot is the pedal box. Everything's fine so far, but I expect that's where play will appear next. I seem to remember there are actually bronze bushes fitted into the pedals where they go onto the cross shaft so these are usually pretty bullet proof, especially if they have been lubricated on the odd occasion. I did however, have to fill weld & re-drill the clevis pin holes & fit new clevis pins. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kneeslider Posted May 11, 2004 Report Share Posted May 11, 2004 Just a thought, but have you put the slave cylinder on the bracket in the right place? The pipe from the cylinder should be threaded through the bracket, then the cylinder bolted up. I thought that was the problem with my setup first! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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