timing

[littlejim]

Today was timing day as well as a repechage session on the carbies.

 

I found these references very helpful;

http://www.vtr.org/maintain-index.shtml

 

http://www.macysgarage.com/myweb6/ign-timing2.htm

 

It seems determined to idle at 1500RPM and no lower, so who am I to argue.

[TR 2100]

I know our cars often have minds of their own, but 1500rpm is

way too much.

It may settle down with use but there are various items you

can check/adjust.

My well-tuned lump ticks over at 600rpm cold, about 900rpm hot.

 

AlanR

[littlejim]

I know our cars often have minds of their own, but 1500rpm is

way too much.

It may settle down with use but there are various items you

can check/adjust.

My well-tuned lump ticks over at 600rpm cold, about 900rpm hot.

 

AlanR

 

I was aiming for within cooee of that but once all the idling and throttle screws were backed off out of contact, it flatly refused to go slower. in my eagerness to hear it make a noise after all those years I haven't had a go at the float bowls. I'll have another tuning session after I've worked my way down the 'to-do' list.

Tomorrow I think I'll shave a bit off the front of the driver seat runners. It seems cheaper than getting an extra inch grafted into tibia and fibula of each leg, or buying some platform driving shoes.

[TR 2100]

I was aiming for within cooee of that but once all the idling and throttle screws were backed off out of contact, it flatly refused to go slower.

 

Butterflies, perhaps?

Don't take No for an answer. 1500 really is too much -

it will drive you crazy once the joy of hearing the

engine running for the first time wears off.

 

AlanR

[PJM]

Air leak somewhere? Possibly the inlet manifold, get hold of some carb cleaner and spray it along the joint, if there is an air leak the revs will drop once the cleaner is sucked in temporarily stopping the leak.

[Roly]

Carb cleaner is so volatile it gives rise to an interesting conflagration.

WD40 is a safer option.

 

Roly

[Alec Pringle]

Catrol R is the best bet for checking air ingress - if any is sucked into the combustion chambers there is absolutely no mistaking the aroma, and no cat system hides it either !

 

Alternatively Automatic Transmission Fluid works well enough, in terms both of sealing the ingress point momentarily and then making its smoke presence visible out of the tailpipe.

 

Cheers,

 

Alec

[Ade-TR4]

Check the throttle spindles too: A notorious wear point on the carbs.

 

Even on a lumpy cam you should be able to get it down below 1000rpm.

 

One thing I've noticed which has made a big difference is fuel pressure.

My rebuilt original AC pump seems to have been overpowering the floats - everytime I got home from a run, there'd be fuel staining down the lid/ side of the float bowls. I've put a pressure regulator in-line (in preparation for DCOE install), set it to 3psi, and it's cured the flooding AND the car is running better.

 

Wish I'd fitted it years ago!

Adey

ps: I would love to have told you what the original pressure was and even bought a fuel pressure gauge to check it: which then proceeded to leak fuel everywhere!

Edited June 23, 2010 by Ade-TR4

[Kiwifrog]

Catrol R is the best bet for checking air ingress -

Cheers,

 

Alec

 

 

 

Alec

 

I have managed to roll my cat into a ball but just cant manage to get it into the carb intake, and how do you stop it biting and scratching when trying to insert into the inlet? At least the meowing covers up the sound of the noisy tappets

 

Cheers

 

Alan

Edited June 23, 2010 by Kiwifrog

[Ade-TR4]

Try rolling it lengthways

[littlejim]

Alec

 

I have managed to roll my cat into a ball but just cant manage to get it into the carb intake, and how do you stop it biting and scratching when trying to insert into the inlet? At least the meowing covers up the sound of the noisy tappets

 

Cheers

 

Alan

 

Catrol R is the best bet for checking air ingress - if any is sucked into the combustion chambers there is absolutely no mistaking the aroma, and no cat system hides it either ! -Alec

 

 

I took it to mean a cat kidney product not the puss itself. Maybe the R is a typo and it should be P.

 

 

Thanks to all for the advice, left it at 1500 today and worked on fitting a blue LED (with in situ resistors to match 12Volts) into a threaded tube that would look OK in the existing hole in the dash panel. it is for the O/D. I already have red and amber LEDs for the electric water pump and fan thought I'd better change colour, otherwise when one lights up I'll need a check list as long as the space shuttle one to work out what is going bung.

B*gger the seat runners they can wait.

Edited June 23, 2010 by littlejim

[Alec Pringle]

First put the cat through the mincer, then the liquidiser . . . . .

 

Alternatively, rather than exploring the 102nd use of a dead cat, employ CASTROL R

 

For the want of an S the pussy was carbied . . . .

 

One more to explain to St Peter ?

 

Cheers,

 

Alec

[mfperks]

I am a little worried about the use of feline fuel additives, one has to determine the μ factor in all calculations.

 

 

 

[Alec Pringle]

Wasn't it Esso who offered a Tiger in Your Tank ? Probably not allowed any more, non-PC and all that.

 

As for Shell, the guy at my local filling station had me in stitches with his comment on a tatty old MGB being filled up with high-octane fuel . . . . "V-Power, Viagra for old dogs, and it doesn't work on cars either!"

 

Cheers,

 

Alec

[Ashley James]

Quite often a fast tickover that won't slow down is caused by the timing being too far advance, so check it again.

 

Setting SU Carburettors is easy, there is one way to do it and guarantee success. Proceed as follows: Start (depending on your carbs) by making sure that the float needles close when the two legs are 7/16" of an inch from the face of the lid. Use the shank of a drill. Unless this is done everything else will be wrong. Next job is to synchronise the butterflies and I do this with a 1.5 thou feel gauge. I take the dashpots off, put it under them one at a time and make sure the effort to remove either is identical. Then I screw in the tickover adjustment screws by the requisite amount. Finally I set the main jets with a vernier gauge so that they are between 38 and 40 thou below the jet bridge. Works perfectly every time if the ignition timing is correct.

 

Burlen do an SU workshop manual which is sometimes useful and costs about £8, they also do a parts list for a bit more.

 

Ash

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