Jump to content

HS6 Linkages and Springs .........


Recommended Posts

All,

 

I've known that there has been a small problem with the SUs since I got her. Simply because when warm she will idle at 1000 RPM, but if I pull back on the accelerator, she'll drop to 800 RPM.

 

At first I thought this would be an incorrectly seated throttle butterfly (met that one before) but after poking and prodding, the reason is that the rear carb throttle return spring is under absolutely NO TENSION when the car is at low revs. Therefore the rear carb throttle butterfly does not properly close. Pulling on the accelerator helps to force things shut a bit more!

 

Here are a few pics I've managed to get of the engine bay.

I suspect that this is the original "Stromberg" manifold - can anyone confirm this and got a picture of the "right" one and what the difference is??

mini-P6140417.jpg

 

 

Here you can see the front carb spring located on the bracket - nicely positioned and vertical

mini-P6130409.jpg

 

Here similarly you can see the rear carb spring located on the bracket - at quite an angle to the carb.

?? Is it meant to be at such an angle? I suspect probably since otherwise it would probably foul the horizontal accelerator rod.

You can also see that there is quite a marked difference in height between the two springs where they are anchored to the bracket. The left (rear) one being higher than the right (front) one.

mini-P6130411.jpg

 

Slightly different shot....

mini-P6130413.jpg

 

And some more leaning over the engine looking down the back.....

mini-P6140415.jpg

 

Notice the bracket that looks like it's been "doctored" to allow passage of the accelerator rod.

mini-P6140416.jpg

 

I've got plenty of receipts that show that one of the previous owners went to reasonable pains to convert this car, loads of parts from our usual suppliers and a fortune with Burlen, but I think that the throttle bracket is incorrect (although I have the receipt for the part from one of our very famous suppliers).

 

Can anyone tell me:

Is the throttle bracket incorrect - do you have a photo of the correct bracket?

Any reason why I shouldn't "adapt" the bracket (drill another hole) to bring the spring under tension

Any other comment.

 

Cheers,

Brian.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Many thanks Bill!

 

I suspect yours is original - we can see the AUD209R label on the rear carb fuel chamber which is a bit of a give away. I have no such labels. I know that my carbs didn't originally come from a TR, I think they were another member of the Triumph family, and then correct parts added to bring them into line.

 

Your bracket and spring layout does look much much better, and different springs.....which is interesting, because I have a receipt for the springs and they're not like yours...

 

More investigation I think, then a decision to either get the right bracket, or fabricate something to put the spring under more tension.

 

Anyone out there recognise the parts that I've got?

 

Cheers,

Brian.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Brian,

 

My 4A is exactly the same as Bill's setup which I believe to be original. I don't recognise your bracketry at all.

 

Cheers

 

Graeme

Edited by graeme
Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Brian,

 

You need to block off the 2 short 45-degree pipes just in front of the dash-pots. They're later carbs and the angled pipes are part of a breather system that the TR4 doesn't employ (Dolly Sprints etc used them).

 

The earlier HS6s don't have that arrangement, without blanking off the pipes, you'll be pulling in loads of air.

 

Stick a bolt in the end of the pipe.

 

Cheers

Adey

PS: I know Revington's stock the full linkage assembly as that's where I got mine from; It's identical to Bill's

Edited by Ade-TR4
Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Adey,

 

The pipes are already blanked off - just can't see from the photo!

 

I'll try to ring the previous owner that did the conversion and see why he went down this route ....... can't imagine a bracket like that being in short supply, but then these things do happen occassionally.

 

Cheers,

Bri.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Just spoke to the chap who did the SU conversion back in 2002, and he says that he had some trouble getting some of the parts, and that bracket was the closest that he could find at the time. So it looks like there was a rush on HS conversions about that time and some parts became scarce.

 

Thanks for all you help again chaps, and for your photos Bill. I'm off to surf the suppliers websites and buy a bracket!

 

Cheers,

Brian.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I hadn't realised the linkages were in such short supply - this explains why back in the winter the Forum member to whom I gave a new set of linkage and all the gubbins insisted on proffering a good single malt rather than the bottle of Grouse that I'd suggested !!! :D

 

Cheers,

 

Alec

Link to post
Share on other sites

Brian,

 

I see that Moss do list most of the parts you require - Page 45, illustration part numbers 78, 79, 80, 81, 82 & 84 all of which come to a grand total of £37.82.

 

For some reason Moss do not supply the connecting shaft between the carbs - illustration part number 63 - however the item you currently have fitted looks OK to me.

 

Regarding you other request for Triumph information on the SU HS6's, I have an original TR4A Owners Handbook printed in 1966 which has a four page supplement for those particular carbs.

 

If of interest, send me your e-mail in a PM and I will forward a PDF copy.

 

Regards, Richard ;)

Link to post
Share on other sites

Cheers Richard,

 

I've been in touch with Moss this morning and ordered the bracket (part number 84 - 218410) which was surprisingly half the price of revingtons.

 

I don't need the other parts - the bell crank and fittings, the one's that I have are the correct ones, I've got the Moss receipt from 2002 when these were bought, it was just the bracket that he couldn't get at that time.

 

PM sent for the scanned PDF

 

Cheers,

Brian.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Brian

 

Check the dimensions of the whole thing when you have it set up - if misaligned the linkage has a nasty habit of jamming open, which means it foot hard down time. If you want me to measure up the one I have let me know - youre also welcome to borrow if if it helps you out !

 

Im on cabled twin webers on everything now, so i won't use it.

 

Regards

 

Tony

Link to post
Share on other sites
Check the dimensions of the whole thing when you have it set up - if misaligned the linkage has a nasty habit of jamming open, which means it foot hard down time

 

Thanks for that bit of advice Tony (and the offer of a loan), Now you say it, I can imagine how this can happen, so I'll do the checks.

 

Cheers,

Bri.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Package arrived from Moss today :)

 

Exactly the same bracket that I've got today :(

 

Can you believe it! What utter rubbish!

 

Now I've got to send it back and try to source a real part!

 

Feeling brassed off,

Bri.

Link to post
Share on other sites

You could always try Burlen Fuel systems or Andrew Turner Carbs.

Stuart.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Brian,

 

I'm not surprised that Moss have sent something not quite right as they will send whatever they can have made.

 

Why not simply bite the bullet and buy Tony's.

 

You may feel that it is expensive but in reality it isn't. It's the correct part in superb condition that you are seemingly struggling to find elsewhere.

 

In my opinion, it's good value for money.

 

David

Link to post
Share on other sites

Sorry - £150 for the whole lot, when all I need is a bracket? nope, not got that much money to burn.

 

For now, I've drilled a hole lower down in the existing bracket to at least get the spring/throttle under some tension. Not ideal, but will give me plenty of time to find the right bracket, I hope.

 

Ho hum, all part of the joys of owning an older car.

 

Thanks again for all your help - and thanks Richard for emailing me pics and documents.

 

Cheers,

Bri.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Brian,

I know they are not exactly local to you, but would suggest you contact Southern Carburetters at Wimbledon 020 8540 2723. They are very helpful, carry a large stock of parts and their prices are keener than those of MOSS (to whom I believe they supply spares).

 

Geoff

Link to post
Share on other sites

Why don't you just use stronger springs on the throttles to make sure they return properly? If that is really the problem - I have found that a bit of slop or excess length in the rods can cause the same problem.

 

The mechanical linkage is IMO a bit imperfect anyway, compared to cables, you could find that you source all the correct gubbins and you still experience the same problems after fitting - you have to get all the connecting rods etc absolutely spot on in length to make sure that you get both fully open throttles and also throttles returning properly to their stops - I have got the correct brackets and it is still a bit of a ball ache to get it set up right.

 

cheers

 

Andy

Edited by 67_gt6
Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm sure the right bracket will turn up eventually.

 

However in the short term, I have lowered the front carb spring to a lower hole, Drilled a hole as low as I can for the rear carb and now the springs are under good tension, just a little awkward.

 

Having done that, it is now possible to tune them. Hardly surprising with the throttle springs as they were things were out. Mixture was pretty good, but she was idling solely on the rear carb - so balance was completely out! I'm surprised she ran so smoothly - must be down to a good balancing tube ?!? Also the choke was only pulling on the front carb jet.

 

The lost motion on the throttle shaft can now be properly set and Wow! what a difference in a responsive throttle! Woo Hoo!

 

Now I've developed a bit of 'run on', which is common according to other threads. I'll leave alone for a while and see how it develops. Fuel is good - 95 Octane unleaded with a good glug of Tetraboost real lead additive which will also boost the Octane to 97-98 ish.

 

Bri.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Maybe they will give it away or sell for 50p,or a quid or 2 as they dont know!

Plenty out there who dont realise that rarity has value! ;)

Whatever the part is! :)

Its on my list of things to look out for at classic events I go to Bri,as you never know whats gonna turn up next! ;)

At least its all working well now! :)

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 11 years later...

Recycling this topic; my question is what is the correct orientation for the SU throttle bellcrank ? I have seen pretty much every permutation in manuals and on threads various (as per pic), is there a correct one? Also my HS6s (came off a TR7 but refurbished by Andrew Turner to TR4a spec) don't have return springs fitted, there is an integral return spring on the throttle connecting rods, but I can't see anywhere on the rods or the clamps to attach a return spring, what am I missing?

Many thanks

David

Bellcrank.JPG

Link to post
Share on other sites

Like this.

Stuart.

 

5 - Original SU HS6 operating linkage.JPG

543112_3105953803006_1089104818_32343508_1336163788_n.jpg

546913_3105954163015_1089104818_32343509_32456576_n.jpg

 

Edited by stuart
Link to post
Share on other sites

Hello All,

Question when it comes to the linkage back to the throttle pedal. Where the "contorted metal rod" comes out of the passenger compartment it goes through a plastic bush and is then attached to an Actuating Lever, this then joins to the Long Throttle Rod. Does your Actuating Lever (sorry cant find the correct description) sit horizontal to the ground or is it inclined at about 30 degrees?  

My problem is the car sits and idles ok and will accelerate gently but if I open the throttle a bit more enthusiastically the car dies. I am wondering if the arc of taken by the Actuating Lever is opening the butterflies too quickly. A bit like the lobe on a cam which gives a small amount of movement over the first few degrees then accelerates the amount of movement as it rotates.

It may well be distributor timing which may also be influenced by a sudden drop in vacuum but thought I would ask the question and eliminate any complications or easy fixes first.

It is a TR4 with a TR4A linkage as posted by Stuart.

Thanks

Edgar

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.