CP Throttle ajustment

[steved69tr6]

Does anyone know what clearances are needed on the throttle butterflys on a CP engine from cold, for set up?

 

I dont want to upset my neighbours, and I cant run the car round the block at the moment, so I need to have a rough idea so i can run it round the block and adjust

 

Steve

[Guest ntc]

Fast idle cam on or not?

[steved69tr6]

it does have a fast idle cam, but im not fitting it, as it does not work propally

[Guest ntc]

it does have a fast idle cam, but im not fitting it, as it does not work propally

 

 

You should make it work well worth the trouble

[tonytr7]

fag paper clearance is what i set mine up to.

and held an offcut of pipe to my ear to balance the three bodies up,by getting all the hisses the same.

worked for me

[steved69tr6]

fag paper clearance is what i set mine up to.

and held an offcut of pipe to my ear to balance the three bodies up,by getting all the hisses the same.

worked for me

 

 

 

Cheers guys, my dad who used to work for a Triumph Dealership has just given me a service training notes for lucus petrol injection for the TR5, its the same on early 6's so I should be all ok now according to the book the gap should be 0.002" (0.05mm) so fag paper

 

Steve

Edited June 2, 2010 by steved69tr6

[Andy Moltu]

You should make it work well worth the trouble

 

 

The fast idle cam is an almost irrelevant device on a PI TR6.

 

If your car has the air bleed valve on the front manifold then you should aim to have the butterflies closed but perfecly aligned so they open synchronously. If you close the air bleed valve the car should stall. Only the TR5s and very early 6s had no air bleed - in which case the fag paper method is fine.

[Guest ntc]

The fast idle cam is an almost irrelevant device on a PI TR6.

 

I

 

If you want to sit there on a cold morning trying to keep it running by blipping the throttle your loss .And the old fag paper trick is well known,try it with carbon build up

[peejay4A]

Mine's really nasty to drive without the fast idle when cold.

[steved69tr6]

Mine's really nasty to drive without the fast idle when cold.

 

 

My TR6 is CP25243, so a VERY early one. bt i do have an air bleed screw thats fully home.

 

hurry it drove on the road today for the first time, but its overheating gurrrrrrrrrrrrrr, hopefully its just the gauge playing up.

 

the air bleed is fully in, and its idleing sometimes at 2 thousand rpm, and sometimes 1.2 rpm, its all anoying after and £2.5K engine rebuild includeding new exhuast, new head complate new fuel inject systerm throughout, all at home, and reverting from carbs back to fuel injecton.

 

All teething issues, but I keep telling myself be positive Steve it works (sort of) now after 8 months off the road.

 

Steve

Edited June 4, 2010 by steved69tr6

[Guest ntc]

Mine's really nasty to drive without the fast idle when cold.

 

 

Over to you Andy

[AndrewP]

Steve,

 

Ive also got an early 6 (not as early as your though), and the early linkages have pretty much no adjustment in them. On mine there doesnt appear to be any adjustment screw between banks, and your basically relying on the folded 'stop'on the LHS of the throttle body (later ones appear to have adjustment screws), then from what I can see the whole 3 banks are overall controlled by the main idle adjustment screw.

As others have said though, it should stall if the bleed screw is fully in AND the idle screw is adjusted out. If you cant get it to stall by adjusting the idle screw then you have a vacuum leak (see a post of mine from a while back) so check all your hoses and fittings. Check the servo and its operation (make sure its holding vacuum).

My throttle linkage is currently off the engine so if you need any pics then I can snap a few.

My understanding with the fag packet is its basically there to stop the butterflies closing fully and therefore burring or bruising the ally.

 

EDIT..worth checking the fast idle cam as others have mentioned. Make sure the spring is fully returning the fast idle back to full stop. I found I needed to fit double return springs (dont think they are original) as they didnt have the spring to return the cam back fully every time.

For what its worth, I found my car is almost impossible to keep running when cold without it, I needed to keep blipping the throttle to keep it going. I ended up putting the dual choke cable back in and sorting the fast idle. Much much better starting now.

 

Cheers

Edited June 5, 2010 by someone1975

[steved69tr6]

Cheers Andrew,

 

I'll give some thought to what you have said, and give it a good look over next weekend. Currently I'm working on keeping it cool (stop the overheating) and I need to get it though another MOT in July

 

Steve

[Andy Moltu]

Over to you Andy

 

 

Can't see how the fast idle makes a difference to how it drives. On a standard car the choke has 2 cables - one to the metering unit to richen the mixture by opening up the max fuel lever. The second goes to the throttle mechanism & opens the butterflies a little to speed up tick over. Effectively doing what your right foot does when you press the accellerator. The theory being that when you squirt the extra fuel in needed when the engine is cold it slows tick over so the fast idle compensates so that the car doesn't stall.

 

If you are gentle with your R foot & don't intend to leave a cold car fast idling the fast idle is of limited relevance as the 6 cylinder PI cars don't stall easily.

[steved69tr6]

Can't see how the fast idle makes a difference to how it drives. On a standard car the choke has 2 cables - one to the metering unit to richen the mixture by opening up the max fuel lever. The second goes to the throttle mechanism & opens the butterflies a little to speed up tick over. Effectively doing what your right foot does when you press the accellerator. The theory being that when you squirt the extra fuel in needed when the engine is cold it slows tick over so the fast idle compensates so that the car doesn't stall.

 

If you are gentle with your R foot & don't intend to leave a cold car fast idling the fast idle is of limited relevance as the 6 cylinder PI cars don't stall easily.

 

 

 

Thinking about the cold start cam and reasons why I'm not bothering with it has to do mostly with my old Spitfire. Yes I know my Spit is a carb car and the TR6 is injection so two diffirent animals. But my point being I used to drive a Spitfire everyday for 2 years no matter what the weather snow rain the lot. I tuned that up perfectly and did not use the cold start cam on that. I disregarded it for a gentle right foot, and I never had any issues

 

Steve

[Guest ntc]

Can't see how the fast idle makes a difference to how it drives. On a standard car the choke has 2 cables - one to the metering unit to richen the mixture by opening up the max fuel lever. The second goes to the throttle mechanism & opens the butterflies a little to speed up tick over. Effectively doing what your right foot does when you press the accellerator. The theory being that when you squirt the extra fuel in needed when the engine is cold it slows tick over so the fast idle compensates so that the car doesn't stall.

 

If you are gentle with your R foot & don't intend to leave a cold car fast idling the fast idle is of limited relevance as the 6 cylinder PI cars don't stall easily.

 

 

Set up correctly with a control knob in good working order (ie locking) it is a pleasure to use

[SpitFireSIX]

Hi,

 mine was Orings on injectors.

What is the thread on the idle screw? I want to blank mine.

Cheers,

Iain.

[michael pridham]

Hi Steve,

I would definitely connect the fast idle cam, when I bought my car it was not connected and was a pig to start and keep running, once reconnected it is a different car.

Michael