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Longest TR4 restoration ever?


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Okay time to introduce myself... or possibly of more importance the multi coloured rusty/dusty lump in my garage otherwise known as a 1961 TR4.

A couple of things worth mentioning:

1) I have had this car now for almost 26 years

2) I have never driven it!!... orhttp:// for that matter any TR4. is it all worth it I wonder?

 

I bought it at as partly restored non-runner from Falmouth in Cornwall where it had spent its entire life. I took up the challenge and continued with the restoration work which included rebuilding the complete drive train, suspension and brakes etc...so that probably brings us up to about 22 years ago..............................................and that’s it - children/houses/mortgages/...all the normal stuff really but I did manage to keep the car!

 

So I possibly could be in line for the longest restoration project known to the forum?

 

Anyway a couple of pictures for you to see. My main concern now is the body work (albeit I realise that I’m probably going to have to re–do a lot of the mechanical work that was done two decades ago – perishing seals/gaskets & internal corrosion etc)

 

th_002.jpg

 

th_001.jpg

The problem is that a very large number of panels were replaced by the previous owner and I’m sure it wasn’t done ‘by the book’ so there has been a body off restoration without any bracing or reference points for me to work to so I’m going to be very grateful of advice with regards to correct panel fit and body lines from all you experts out there.

The boot and bonnet are original and until I start stripping the rest of the body I’m not sure about how much else is original.

 

002.jpg[/img]

 

001.jpg[/img]

 

001-1.jpg[/img]

 

 

I ‘m fairly confident with all things mechanical, I have the tools and have just completed a body work course with my eldest son at the local college so we are gearing up to set about the task.

 

I will try to update with the progress and pictures if this is the right pace to do it!

John

Edited by Chilliman
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Welcome to the Canteen . . . .

 

Only 26 years ? Hmmmm, not quite a record, not by a decade or two ! :D

 

Don't worry about it, that looks like a darn sight better basis than most restorations that have featured on here.

 

And central heating in the garage too - lucky blighter ! :P

 

Cheers,

 

Alec

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Hi John

 

Welcome on board: 26yrs ?

 

I think a couple of guys in the North London Group may also be able to give you a run for your money.........

 

The good news is the wealth of experience available to you regarding managing a 26 yr restrorationlaugh.giflaugh.giflaugh.gif

 

Looking forward to following your progress !

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Welcome John,

ask your questions - it gives us something to do between car jobs.

 

Get along to your group meeting and ask them as well - why should they escape the barrage of questions and photo's.

 

Take loads of pic's of the on-going rebuild.

 

If the car hasn't run for so long be careful with the engine when you go to start it!!!

 

Roger

Edited by RogerH
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Welcome to the wonderful world of TRs. Looks to me like a very easy restoration as you seem to have considerably more of a car than a lot of us started with ;)

Stuart

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hi john , it would be probabley rude to ask a fellow member how much they paid for their car, but after 26 years its intriguing to know for some of us "tongue in cheek" younger/newer members.has it kept up with inflation???

thanks

pete

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Thanks for the interest, I’m glad you are able to see the pictures I wasn’t sure I’d loaded them properly as I’m not able to see them myself on the forum, just a number of links which I can’t follow either!...Almost certainly operator error somewhere along the line.

 

I’ve just bought a set of those car wheel skates so I can spin the car around in the garage and give me access all round.

 

Just to answer a couple of the questions the bonnet bulge – I’ve read that they started small and got progressively bigger over the production run but I don’t have anything to compare this one with, it measures 31” from start to finish in old money – is that correct for the year (not that I’m a purest enough to want to change even if it was possible!)

 

For Pete - The price I paid 26 years ago was £550 of hard earned beer vouchers, I haven’t found my notes yet covering the restoration of the engine and running gear but I guess that was in the order of £3K back in the mid – late 80’s.

 

But that small change compared to the hassle of keeping her safely housed over the years – garage rental etc. Plus the garage she is in know I built with a view to this restoration taking place – inspection pit, separate workshop/compressor room and heating as you’ve seen!

 

I’ll load more pictures as soon as I work how to do it properly.

John

:rolleyes:

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Look forward to your on going restoration John.You will experiance some frustration and as you have gathered this forum has a wealth of knowledge to help you achieve your goal.It is going to be well worth it in the end.The joy of driving something you have restored and with your son will live forever and the grin factor we all get never leaves you.You will know what we mean when it happens to you.

Welcome to our world.

Regards Harry TR5 Nutterbiggrin.gifbiggrin.gifbiggrin.gifbiggrin.gifbiggrin.gif

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Hi John,

 

You'll need to check the Chassis (CT) number on the N/S bulkhead to check what size bonnet bulge is correct.

The very early cars had the shortest bulge, the later ones (like mine) had the longest: The bulge extending to the back edge of the bonnet.

 

Bill's book is the place to start!

 

Ade

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Can anyone advise me on chrome plating? – it’s quite clear that although there are no holes or serious rust to contend with I am going to need to get all the bright-work re-chromed. I’ve read a number of horror stories about various different chroming processes that have lasted until the first rain fell!

 

Bearing in mind I live in the (not so sunny at the moment) southwest a local firm with a good reputation would be ideal but in the end I do want it done properly and am happy to pack it off, or even find an excuse for a night away & deliver it all.

 

I would rather go with personal recommendation from someone that has had it done than take pot luck, can anyone help?

 

Thanks

 

John

:unsure:

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Can anyone advise me on chrome plating? – it’s quite clear that although there are no holes or serious rust to contend with I am going to need to get all the bright-work re-chromed. I’ve read a number of horror stories about various different chroming processes that have lasted until the first rain fell!

 

Bearing in mind I live in the (not so sunny at the moment) southwest a local firm with a good reputation would be ideal but in the end I do want it done properly and am happy to pack it off, or even find an excuse for a night away & deliver it all.

 

I would rather go with personal recommendation from someone that has had it done than take pot luck, can anyone help?

 

Thanks

 

John

:unsure:

 

Chroming is expensive these days due to the high cost of materials etc. For top notch long lasting (albeit expensive) proper English triple plating I always use London Chroming 02076396434. For a fairly local company that have done some good Nickel plating for me (and do chroming as well) is SMB plating in Launceston.

Stuart

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Thanks Stuart,

 

I'll give them a call - which department of expensive am I looking at? small white lies to the wife or full blown conspiracy to divert funds!!

 

John ;)

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Thanks Stuart,

 

I'll give them a call - which department of expensive am I looking at? small white lies to the wife or full blown conspiracy to divert funds!!

 

John ;)

 

Depending on how many bits you need doing and also if the bits need any repairs (Which they are one of the few companies that do them and do them really well) Then possibly the latter.But as far as Im concerned they are the best.

Stuart.

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A few more pictures. As the boot just happened to be the nearest part to get to I thought I'd start and have a look at how bad it was under the semi sanded paint.

I've stripped it back both sides with chemical stripper and then a little spot blasting on some of the small areas of surface rust. Overall I think it's in pretty good condition. The only part that needed surgery was the bottom left corner and the inner skin along the bottom. this is the progress so far.

 

th_004-1.jpg

 

th_002-2.jpg

 

th_003.jpg

 

th_009.jpg

 

th_017.jpg

 

th_047.jpg

 

 

 

I've got to complete the inside of the boot and then do a little lead loading to the bottom edge outside before etch primimg....busy weekend coming up! :D

Edited by Chilliman
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Nice job. Looks as if you know what youre doing, man after my own heart with the leading. Keep it up chap.

Stuart.

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I'm just starting the repair to the inner leaf at the bottom of the boot edge - I'm fabricating new sections for either end where the bad corrosion is - but can anyone tell me - should the inner skin be fixed back to the oputer skin at the ends? On mine the ends seem to be floating in mid air - several mil above the outer skin, I suspect they may have been spot welded together originaly, hopefully the picture will show what I mean

 

thanks

John

 

th_Bootrepair012.jpg

 

th_Bootrepair009.jpg

Edited by Chilliman
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It should go right to the end and lip slightly to meet the skin return and spotted together.

Stuart

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Thanks for that fast response Stuart, I was fairly sure it should be, but without anything to refer to I did't want to do it wrong.

 

I'm a bit of a Neanderthal when it comes to computers - I take it you are able to see the pictures I attach as I can't & I'm not sure I've done it correctly or they're too large?

John :huh:

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Thanks for that fast response Stuart, I was fairly sure it should be, but without anything to refer to I did't want to do it wrong.

 

I'm a bit of a Neanderthal when it comes to computers - I take it you are able to see the pictures I attach as I can't & I'm not sure I've done it correctly or they're too large?

John :huh:

 

I managed to view your pictures by using the link to your Photobucket site. When you want to post pictures so everyone can see them copy and paste the Direct code into the drop down box that is activated by clicking on the little square icon that is the second one along from the smiley icon at the top line of the reply box just below the square that says sizes. I have only just lately learned how to do this as well. ;)

Stuart.

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Just emptied the inside of the tub - which was made up of all the outer panels stacked on top of each other! One door is still complete and one door has no skin - albeit there are also two new skins here as well.

 

I think one of my main problems is going to be correctly identifying what is original and what isn’t. There has clearly been a lot of work done on the body but I’m dubious about some of it. Especially the rear deck and rear valance which clearly don’t have a good line with the boot edge and are probably going to have to be worked on......somehow!

 

th_043.jpg

 

The original colour was (I believe) called powder blue which is what I would like to return it to

th_039.jpg

 

th_042.jpg

 

And of course Santas little helper....

 

th_049.jpg :unsure:

Edited by Chilliman
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Chilliman

 

Have edited your images post

 

Cheers

 

Alan

 

047.jpg

 

 

 

043.jpg

 

 

 

The original colour was (I believe) called powder blue which is what I would like to return it to

039.jpg

 

042.jpg

 

 

Little helper

049.jpg

Edited by Kiwifrog
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Thanks kiwifrog....that looks a lot better - I obviously haven't got the hang of the picture stuff yet!!! :)

John

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Does look like a very easy one to do though as you have a considerable amount more good metalwork than I ever start with! ;)

Stuart.

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