randall977 Posted March 19, 2010 Report Share Posted March 19, 2010 The final stage of my engine strip down is to remove the wet liners. I can see that there is a considerable build up of rust inside the water jacket - the engine has not been run for over 30 years (drained of coolant). I made a wooden block and using a club hammer had a go at freeing the liners but no movement at all. I assume this is not an uncommon problem - what is the best way of freeing them? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kob666e Posted March 19, 2010 Report Share Posted March 19, 2010 If you are replacing the liners with new ones get a length of steel instead of wood, and a good hammer! If you're reusing them use some sort of cushioning........ Quote Link to post Share on other sites
randall977 Posted March 19, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2010 Reusing. The block of wood was the cushion and the club hammer was the encouragement... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Roly Posted March 20, 2010 Report Share Posted March 20, 2010 I made up a top hat shaped mandrel and with threaded rod and spacers wound it all up under tension and gave the mandrel a really good whack from underneath and the liner came loose. Â Roly Quote Link to post Share on other sites
randall977 Posted March 20, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2010 Works well on three of them but cylinder no.4 just will not budge! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted March 20, 2010 Report Share Posted March 20, 2010 Works well on three of them but cylinder no.4 just will not budge! Â Then leave it soaking with the tension on it. It will go in the end. Stuart Quote Link to post Share on other sites
randall977 Posted March 20, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2010 I've WD40'ed around it quite a lot and it's currently under maximum tension...should I have soaked it in another way? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted March 20, 2010 Report Share Posted March 20, 2010 I've WD40'ed around it quite a lot and it's currently under maximum tension...should I have soaked it in another way? Â Try diesel and give it a thump now and again. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Roly Posted March 20, 2010 Report Share Posted March 20, 2010 I had my water gallery soaking in caustic soda for a couple of days. Thats not a lot of help to you at this stage..... Â It will give in the end, lubricant, patience and brutality...... Â Roly Quote Link to post Share on other sites
randall977 Posted March 20, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2010 Thanks for the advice - I'll give it another go tomorrow with a bigger hammer! Maybe when I get there it will have already released...wishfull thinking I think! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
littlejim Posted March 21, 2010 Report Share Posted March 21, 2010 Any way of getting some serious heat on to the block, say paint stripping heat gun, without burning the joint down? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
randall977 Posted March 21, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 21, 2010 (edited) I would say that no.4 wet liner has moved 1000th inch - definitely cracked around the top. I would have expected it now to move (with force)...but no, still stuck. I'm now using a sledge hammer! Next step - mount block with the wet liner aimed down, small piece of scaffolding and a huge wack. After that, heat gun... Edited March 21, 2010 by randall977 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted March 21, 2010 Report Share Posted March 21, 2010 I would say that no.4 wet liner has moved 1000th inch - definitely cracked around the top. I would have expected it now to move (with force)...but no, still stuck. I'm now using a sledge hammer! Next step - mount block with the wet liner aimed down, small piece of scaffolding and a huge wack. After that, heat gun... Â Be careful! You dont want to miss and hit anything else. Be patient and leave it to soak for a few days, if it has cracked the seal then penetrant will get in there. "More haste less speed!" Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Alec Pringle Posted March 21, 2010 Report Share Posted March 21, 2010 If you start using a sledge hammer it's probably wasted effort - as in you'll finish up skipping what might previously have been a perfectly good block. Alternatively you'll discover resultant cracks in the block in due course when you start using the rebuilt engine . . . . Â Kettle descaler judiciously applied can sometimes loosen/dissolve some of the crud glueing in the liner, ideally mixed in to the coolant before dismantling - but a bit late for that now ! Try getting some descaler in neat, or soak the whole block in diluted descaler, preferably hot. Â Cheers, Â Alec Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gaz2trs Posted March 21, 2010 Report Share Posted March 21, 2010 hi ive a spare engine if you hit it to hard Quote Link to post Share on other sites
randall977 Posted March 21, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 21, 2010 It is very frustrating! Three came out fairly easily - what is it with no.4? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted March 21, 2010 Report Share Posted March 21, 2010 You are clearly doing this the wrong way Your attempts to loosen the liner is known by the engine. You need to convince the engine that you don't want the liner to move - speak to it. Otherwise, when you attack it the engine holds on to the liner for all its worth. You need to get ready to attack, then at the last moment distract the engines attention by pretending to clean a gasket face etc Then suddenly pounce. Be careful though or the liner may catch you a pearler as it flies out.  I hope this helps  Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
randall977 Posted March 21, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 21, 2010 Thanks Roger, I've had strong words with the engine already but maybe I will try your tactic! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Allan Westbury Posted March 21, 2010 Report Share Posted March 21, 2010 No 4 is always the worst as all the crud seems to get stuck at the rear of the liner. I agree that time , patience & oil are the three best ingredients but you will still need to get fairly brutal. I used wooden blocks plus a club hammer but when this failed resorted to club hammer with socket extension directly onto the bottom of the liner, going round the edge one belt of the hammer at a time. resulted in a chipped but removed liner. chips & dents on the bottom edge are not a problem providing the liner is not cracked as the bottom portion of the liner doesn't actually do anything once it is in situ. I ended up with a triangular section probably an inch deep chipped out of the liner but it has subsequently been bored & used for around 9000 miles with no problem. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
randall977 Posted March 22, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 22, 2010 (edited) In the words of Iggy Pop - 'Horray success!'... Â Edited March 22, 2010 by randall977 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted March 22, 2010 Report Share Posted March 22, 2010 (edited) See, all you needed was some good advice  Roger Edited March 22, 2010 by RogerH Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BrianC Posted March 22, 2010 Report Share Posted March 22, 2010 That's a surprising picture. The accumulated crud associated with overheating normally occurs at the back of the engine, whereas this photo suggests the front is worse (unless you've cleaned up the rear as part of the liner extraction marathon). Either way, it demonstrates the need for regular flushing (or use of Forlife as many have recommended, although I've yet to try it). Quote Link to post Share on other sites
randall977 Posted March 22, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 22, 2010 The gearbox end had the worst build up - you can see the colour is different where all of the rust / silt is - this is what was stopping the liner moving, bear in mind this engine has not run since 1979! Glad I did it as the engine would surely have overheated. I have just ordered new wet liners, pistons and bearings - the engine has only done 33K but one of the pistons had some minor damage so thought it would be a false economy not to do it. Many thanks for the advice! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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