malcolm Posted March 31, 2004 Report Share Posted March 31, 2004 I think I know the answer to this one but am open to other suggestions. I was busy bleeding brakes on the 7FHC this evening and I've managed to damage the thread that the bleed nipple screws into on the LH caliper. New caliper? or is there another way round the problem? Thanks Malcolm. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
chris turner Posted March 31, 2004 Report Share Posted March 31, 2004 Reconditioned calipers are reasonably priced at around £40 I get them from S+S. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
malcolm Posted March 31, 2004 Author Report Share Posted March 31, 2004 Thanks for the reply Chris. I thought as much I'll give them a ring in the morning and get them to stick one in the post. Cheers Malcolm. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest trminator Posted April 1, 2004 Report Share Posted April 1, 2004 Nooooooo.... Is it just damaged or totally wrung Malcolm? You may be able to re-tap it (with a tap and die set) if the thread isn't totally wiped. -Kyle. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
andrewt Posted April 1, 2004 Report Share Posted April 1, 2004 Guys ,what about helicoils? Just be careful when tapping for the insert that you dont run the tap onto the sealing cone at the bottom. You may need to gradually cut the end of the tap down to get enough thread depth all the way down. This junks the tap but is still cheaper than a recon caliper. The other option is to tap the hole out to the next size & buy a bigger nipple from you local motor factor. This is a common on 205 calipers which use a tiny nipple as standard in an alloy caliper....Grrr. Best of luck Andy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
malcolm Posted April 3, 2004 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2004 Thanks for all the help. S&S reconditioned caliper now fitted and all working fine. Notice the new copper brake pipe - made up by Spectrum hoses for just £3 incl. the fittings! Malcolm. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jonlar Posted April 3, 2004 Report Share Posted April 3, 2004 Hmmmmm? Shouldn't it be braided flexible? Gives you some scope for Brasso though!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest pilbaratr7 Posted April 3, 2004 Report Share Posted April 3, 2004 ??? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
malcolm Posted April 3, 2004 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2004 errr, no. This is meant to be copper. It attaches to the flexible brake hose by the union at the top end of the pipe. Brasso - LOL, one for the concours boys I think Malcolm. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rosey Posted April 3, 2004 Report Share Posted April 3, 2004 Malcolm, I would be worried about the pipe fouling the inner wheelarch if it's not profiled to the strut leg. Dave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
andrewt Posted April 5, 2004 Report Share Posted April 5, 2004 Malcolm, looks like it is a bit generous, (unless the pic is deceptive) should the line not run tucked in closer to the caliper & strut to minimise the chance of damage. The copper is easy to bend so it is very easy to form a neat shape. Just be careful either to use a proper bender or take a lot of care not to flatten the pipe whilst bending it. Cheers Andy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
malcolm Posted April 5, 2004 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2004 The picture is a rather deceptive yes, but thanks Dave & Andrew! I'll bend it in a bit closer before I take the car out again. I value the advice from those who have been there as I have had little practical mechanical experience until recently. Been making a real effort to remedy this in recent months though :cool: Malcolm. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jonlar Posted April 5, 2004 Report Share Posted April 5, 2004 errr, no. This is meant to be copper. It attaches to the flexible brake hose by the union at the top end of the pipe. Brasso - LOL, one for the concours boys I think Malcolm. Malcolm, my concern was exactly the same as Dave and Andy, steel and copper brake pipe needs to be supported as firmly as possible. Copper pipe is very soft, but vibration and movement will cause metal fatigue and premature failure. Such a free length of pipe will vibrate and move a lot. I endorse Andy's comment about using a pipe bender, they cost around £12 from motor factors, but make sure all parts of bender move easily. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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