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scuttle shake cure


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These may be seem like some of those silly questions, but the answers intrigue me.

 

My restoration is still ongoing and I have yet to drive a road going TR3, but in a lot of my reading scuttle shake seems to be a regular discussion point.

How much of an issue is it?

Looking at TR4s they have a dashboard support bracket, can these be modified/ or is it worth modifying to fit a TR3, would that assist with the problem (assuming there is one)

Lastly has anyone done it? and do you have photos of such an installation?

 

I would be intrigued to see what it looks like.

Cheers

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The bracket does reduce scuttle shake on the TR4/5/6 quite considerably, so a good idea in principle.

On the TR2/3/3A, the top of the gearlever moves very close to or under the front edge of the dash when in 1st or 3rd gear, so you would need to fit a TR4-type gear lever, which is angled backwards (this is easy, as it is a direct replacement and there must be many knocking about at our usual suppliers).

In addition, you would need to provide mountings for the bracket on the floor/chassis and the underside of the dash - perfectly possible, of course.

Finally, you would need a bracket - these are difficult to find and might not fit, so it might be advisable to construct one to suit your own needs, possibly in sheet steel, with reverse folds to give it rigidity.

Ian Cornish

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I restored my 1958 TR3A exactly as it was originally and I've have never had any skuttle shake. Why do you worry about something which may never happen if you restore it as it was originally ? At 80,250 miles from new, I restored mine and since 1990 have driven it another 102,000 miles.

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Hi Jim,

 

Scuttle shake isn't a big issue on recently rebuilt cars where new inner sills have been fitted, and the A post is securely welded to the sill.

 

Even less if you fit a hardtop, and it's always been a part of the charm of motoring in a TR, along with the water leaks, draughty side curtains, rugged ride etc.

 

Most of the problem is due to the scuttle weight sitting on the inner sill where it is cantileved forward of the chassis mount point.

 

Severe shake is seen more on cars with weakened structural integrity due to rusted inner sills, and bottom A post junctions.

 

I've seen frames installed inside the A posts, with horizontal side to side bracing beneath the dash, which is difficult with all the obstacles.

 

I've also seen dash braces fabricated like on the TR4, with arms either side of the gear lever and secured down to the chassis, but they look a bit odd.

 

My solution was to have heavy duty galvanised inner sills made, which is a fix that still looks original, yet removes nearly all shake.

 

I doubt you'll be taking your car over too many goat tracks, so I wouldn't worry about it.

 

Regards,

 

Viv.

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My restoration is still ongoing and I have yet to drive a road going TR3,

but in a lot of my reading, scuttle shake seems to be a regular discussion point.

 

 

Hi Jim,

 

If you haven't driven a TR3 yet, I think you will find the heavy steering

far more difficult to get used to than the scuttle shake.

 

Scuttle shake was always mentioned as a bit of a problem, right from when

the cars were new and before rust had set in and weakened the structure, so

I can't really agree with Don and Viv. I think it's more a case of getting

used to the shake (and heavy steering) so it ceases to become a problem.

 

When I was restoring my 3A, I had the vertical seams welded up solid. I can't

tell you what effect it had as I disposed of the car without finishing it.

 

The TR4s don't suffer the same scuttle shake, mainly due to the bracket.

On both my TR4s, I had solid sheet metal welded into the rear bodywork,

partly for safety reasons, partly to stiffen the rear bodywork.

 

The stiffness of the inner sills on the TR2s and 3s (much more robust than

on the TR4s) is a major factor. I'm sure the TR4 would suffer from even more

severe scuttle shake than the earlier cars were it not for the bracket,

as TR4s don't have the same hefty inner sill.

 

I don't know if it is viable to weld in a triangular plate to stiffen the

A post to sill connection. It would be a good idea if you could, and give

the same treatment to the B posts as well.

 

Other than that, be confident that you will get used to it, though it may

well take a month or two of driving before you start to think about other

problems and forget all about the scuttle and steering.

Oh yes, and heavy brakes.

When I first drove my TR after many years off the road, but then fully restored

and everything working as it should, I found the brakes and steering heavy.

And that's a TR4!

 

AlanR

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DSC03746.jpg

 

Hello Jim,

 

I welded a small angle iron frame around the battery box inside the car to strengthen it.

 

Then re enforced the transmission tunnel with a pair of steel hoops and bolted steel tubes from the A post to battery box and another 2 tubes to

 

the transmission tunnel, see pic and NEVER had any scuttle shake, hope this helps.

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When I rebuilt the 2 did almost exactly the same as Peter, if my memory serves me correct (at my age that is often doubtfull) I got the idea from the Australian TR site. Never had scuttle shake but of course would there have been scuttle shake without the mods?

Nigel (with TS952)

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I welded a small angle iron frame around the battery box inside the car to strengthen it.

 

Then re enforced the transmission tunnel with a pair of steel hoops and bolted steel tubes from the A post to battery box and another 2 tubes to

 

the transmission tunnel, see pic and NEVER had any scuttle shake, hope this helps.

 

Good idea Pete but (IMNSHO) totally unnecessary.

Anyway, just how many miles did you drive it before giving up on that magnificent machine?tongue.gif

You really should have persevered - it's worth the effort of learning to drive a properly rebuilt sidescreen car.

 

For anyone who has the chance, give it a 1000 miles or so before you start making mods.

The scuttle shake becomes irrelevant once you get used to it, and at least gives you the original period experience which is surely the point of owning and driving any classic - or am I alone? mellow.gif

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Hello Brian,

 

In my time I have owned 15 sidescreen TR cars, so no driving lessons are needed, some say I couldnt drive a greasy stick up a dogs --se, but they were

 

all women. Scuttle shake is not a figment of the imagination, it does exist but you are quite correct you can live with anything if you pretend its not really there, acka Andrews bent bumper for example. And expecting talent on television.

 

Don amazes me that he doesnt have scuttle shake, but cars in the US arent made to go round corners are they, could it be the same in Canada.

 

I bet if he were to bring it here and drove over the holes in the road after out recent frosty spell, he would have to admit its existence.

 

The TR's range of cars were never going to set the world alight with any decent form of roadholding, and I think if we had some honest replies

 

they would admit that the better drivers, were those who knew just when to back off before the wonderful beast bit you in the arse!

 

Nowheres far in a TR is OK, but so is never rush in the Rain. Still miss that black monster though.

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Thanks everyone i appreciate the thoughts and suggestions. The bracket is not something I have made an actual decision to do, the querys were more in the line of me wondering out loud, has anyone else done it?, is it desirable to do?, because it will be easier to look at the issue now and correct rather than latter when the car is trimed and finished.

Thanks for the photos I hope mine eventually looks as good as TRusty.

Jim

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A few years ago there was an article for modification on an Australian webside that was supposed to reduce scuttle shake. In fact the pictures displayed a kind of horizontal and vertical bars fitted under the dash and connecting the battery box with the A posts, like Peter mentioned in his picture. Have no idea in how far it worked, but carefully balanced front wheels can do magic :)

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Hello Brian,

 

In my time I have owned 15 sidescreen TR cars, so no driving lessons are needed, some say I couldnt drive a greasy stick up a dogs --se, but they were

 

all women. Scuttle shake is not a figment of the imagination, it does exist but you are quite correct you can live with anything if you pretend its not really there, acka Andrews bent bumper for example. And expecting talent on television.

 

Don amazes me that he doesnt have scuttle shake, but cars in the US arent made to go round corners are they, could it be the same in Canada.

 

I bet if he were to bring it here and drove over the holes in the road after out recent frosty spell, he would have to admit its existence.

 

The TR's range of cars were never going to set the world alight with any decent form of roadholding, and I think if we had some honest replies

 

they would admit that the better drivers, were those who knew just when to back off before the wonderful beast bit you in the arse!

 

Nowheres far in a TR is OK, but so is never rush in the Rain. Still miss that black monster though.

 

 

Hi, my experience is with a 4A which, despite its support bracket, suffers from a bit of scuttle shake over poor surfaces like nearly all convertibles of that era (and many moderns). Road surface is everything as you say - the car is a delight on a smooth surfaced road, of the type which seems to be common in every country except the UK.

 

Andy

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The roads in England are as smooth as silk compared to the local roads around my area. Triumph didnt have country Queensland in mind when they designed the TR suspension.

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