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Scuttle Vent Lid Removal

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Why remove the control cable when you are just fixing the seal?

Just remove spring and operating clevis - I used a stainless clevis and 'R' clip .

Cheers

Peter W

 

 

 

 

Edited by BlueTR3A-5EKT

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Here's how I modified the scuttle vent lid on my 3A to give extra adjustment. Note the elongated hinge mounting holes.

Tom.

IMG_1954 - Copy.JPG

Edited by Fireman049

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Peter 

I would not go near the control cable as you suggest - I think Stan was giving a general warning of potential mishaps. Thanks also for the photos. Feel much more confident now!

Tom

Always an admirer of your innovations but I lack your skills. Keeping it simple just about gets me by!

Miles

 

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Miles,

Answer for the less gifted than Tom. Cut slots in the rubber gasket, back off the screws as described slide new rubber and hope that it is not too thick so it does not allow the lid to close fully.The rubber will be more than captured by the hinge plate and screws.

Be aware that repro ones seem to be much thicker than the Original and sometimes wont compress enough to get a good flat fit. I was lucky to have a NOS one that fitted and remains flat.

Insert a nice fresh yellow duster into the bottom to prevent dropped objects descending into the heater then get the most useful workshop tools being a telescopic magnet. Do not doubt magnet strength as they will easily pick up a socket.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/16-Lb-Telescopic-Magnetic-Pick-Up-Tool-Heavy-Duty-750mm-Long-Reach-Amtech-S2235/273275786918?

I have one of these as well 

Bergen Long Pick Up Telescopic Tool with Magnet Magnetic 2lb BER6727

Edited by Rodbr

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Thanks for the link Rod, just ordered one.

Bob.

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Rod

Good practical idea re the duster. Already have one of those magnetic wands - a pristine one that has sat unused in a kitchen drawer for years! And you are right, the magnet is strong. Thanks.

Miles

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Hi Guys,

Nice when people acknowledge something that helps.

There is another one that I was given with a torch round the outside, torch was rubbish but the magnetic end has a flexible which means that you can pick up at 90 degrees. And for those really heavy items I have 4x150lb magnet bars which are used to bolt the ladders inside tubes where welded tabs are forbidden due to fracture issues in the tube due to torque. i.e. Turbine towers.

Miles,

If fitting a repro rubber seal you may have to trim down the thickness to get it fit flush, do this on the underside so that the hack job is not so visible. Put a duct tape tab on the lid which allows you to push lid down but lift it again without having to reconnect the linkage till finally completed. It would be well to remove lid and get the hinge lid moving freely and use waterproof spray grease. if you get it right the lid shut snap shut against the spring and form a good seal but it needs to be well lubed for this. If not eventually the hinge tab breaks off at the hinge pin and you are well screwed as it is welded to the lid.

Ideally do it onc,e do it right!!!

Rod

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Thanks again Rod - its those little details from experience which make all the difference even to what looks like a modest job. This thread now looks like a comprehensive guide from various Forum users for future readers. Thumbs up for Forum users!

Miles

 

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On 3/1/2010 at 2:49 PM, angelfj said:

 

The mechanism is not detailed in any TR document, at least I haven't seen anything.

 

This sketch may help. It was drawn by Johannes Eichert, a TR enthusiast from Germany.

 

 

Vent_Johannes_Sketch_s.jpg

 

and this photo

 

P1030158.jpg

Hi Guys 

Does anyone by chance have a copy of these pictures to hand as I don't seem to be able access them.

Many thanks

Stephen

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