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Scuttle Vent Lid Removal

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What's the process for removing the scuttle vent lid and it's attached operating mechanism, or is it too much trouble for what it's worth? I want to replace the broken operating rod and respray the scuttle area.

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Open the lid as far as it will go and then undo the small hex headed screw that secures the operating rod, detach the spring and then lift the flap up to right angles and then undo the two round headed 2BA screws that secure the flap to the scuttle and in the best traditions of the Haynes manual assembly is the reverse! ;)

Stuart.

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What's the process for removing the scuttle vent lid and it's attached operating mechanism, or is it too much trouble for what it's worth? I want to replace the broken operating rod and respray the scuttle area.

 

Coop, it is the job from hell, but if I can do it, you can do it. My spring was installed upside-down, so the vent flap would only open about an inch, and would not stay open. I have little "girly-man" hands, and still had a time with it. Be sure to have a folded towel between your hands/tools and your paint. Taking it apart was easy.

 

The toughest part was putting it back together. The ends of the springs have to be attached to the lid LAST, not first, because the tension makes it impossible to line everything up.

 

The final operation takes THREE hands. I kid you not: needle-nose holding the stubby little clevis bolt and trying to slip it thru the brackets, another needle-nose holding the rod bracket, and your pinkie on one hand trying to adjust the height of the flap so that its bracket lines up with the rod bracket.

 

I finally got it on about my third or fourth try, as needle-nose don't provide much of a grip. I had to remove my class ring to make my hand as small as possible.

 

Looking at it now, I don't know why I had so much trouble with it. Maybe my hands were cold. Maybe I'm an idiot. Like I like to say, I didn't got to 9 years of junior college for nothing.

 

Good luck.

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For such a simple car the scuttle lid lifting mechanism is fiendishly complicated.

 

I managed to removal it all but I had to cut the heads of the two fixing screws at the front as they were rusted solid, nothing new there then. I've printed off your reassembly instructions and will keep them safe as I know when the time comes to refit it all my mind will be a total blank as to how it all fits back together.

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What's the process for removing the scuttle vent lid and it's attached operating mechanism, or is it too much trouble for what it's worth? I want to replace the broken operating rod and respray the scuttle area.

 

 

The mechanism is not detailed in any TR document, at least I haven't seen anything.

 

This sketch may help. It was drawn by Johannes Eichert, a TR enthusiast from Germany.

 

 

Vent_Johannes_Sketch_s.jpg

 

and this photo

 

P1030158.jpg

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Thanks for the photo, Frank! I think now I know why my task was so difficult. My flap STILL doesn't open as nearly as far as yours. (BUT, I AM LEAVING IT ALONE !!!!!)

 

My flap opens only 2-1/2" from the horizontal. Unfortunately, my task was exacerbated by the "raise" in my hood/bonnet that reduces the space of the opening to 1-3/4"!! Compound this small opening with my attachment screw, and you will see my dilemma. Your photo shows a nice looking bolt with a nut on the end. Well, my "original" bolt is a very short (1/2") clevis bolt WITH A COMPLETELY ROUND HEAD, and a hole for the clevis pin. Imagine trying to hold a round-headed bolt with needle-nose pliers.

 

Again, thanks for the photo. I am happy with my scuttle vent the way it is. It has a very firm action, both opening and closing. (My first TR had the two hinges broken, and was only held in place by the spring and rod bracket.) I will post a photo, IF MY [REPLACEMENT] CAMERA EVER GETS HERE!

 

Peace.

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I hope I don't come across as hijacking this thread, but the images attached above are easier to talk to.

 

Does anyone have a spare triangular piece and arm coming off the triangular piece, as seen in the sketch, that they are willing to sell? I don't have those, and of course haven't been able to use my vent at all. I've gotten other pieces, spring, rubber seal, the locking screw for the opening wire, but I still wasn't sure what I was missing until i saw these pictures.

 

I'm in the USA, by the way. I'd be willing to pay for shipping from abroad, just a heads up.

 

Thanks,

 

Eric

Edited by ronin

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Here is a sketch that I drew of mine in 1988 while restoring my 1958 TR3A. If you can't find one, maybe you could make one.

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Eric I have the whole mechanism if you would like it. PM me your email.

Stuart.

Ventflapmechanism001.jpg

Ventflapmechanism002.jpg

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George, what usually makes the vent flap stiff to open is rusted hinge pins at the back.

 

Next step is they snap off, as per your past experience.

 

Bit of freeing up lube in the flap hinges and lift mechanism pins should help.

 

Regards,

 

Viv.

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Stuart - Look at the sketch I drew in 1988. This was an exact reproduction of the parts that came off my early 1958 TR3A since it was new. They had never been removed before I made the sketch.

 

Your parts look curious to me. Are they correctly assembled as per my sketch ? Is it because the parts are up-side-down relative to my sketch ? You show permanently attached rivets instead of pins and clips and this would make it difficult to install or remove next time, in my estimation. Which side in your photos is the shorter side and the longer side ?

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Stuart - Look at the sketch I drew in 1988. This was an exact reproduction of the parts that came off my early 1958 TR3A since it was new. They had never been removed before I made the sketch.

 

Your parts look curious to me. Are they correctly assembled as per my sketch ? Is it because the parts are up-side-down relative to my sketch ? You show permanently attached rivets instead of pins and clips and this would make it difficult to install or remove next time, in my estimation. Which side in your photos is the shorter side and the longer side ?

 

Hi Don that's the complete assembly from a Moss repro as it was dispatched with flap that I didn't use for a job a couple of years ago. I just replaced the flap and discarded the rest as useful someday! ;)

Stuart

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Very illuminating. I think I now understand why mine has never worked properly, half the bits are missing. - Sod it!

It's very good this forum, particularly for finding out things that you didn't now you needed to know!

 

Clive

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Hi

 

I have a 57 tr-3 and the only part of the scuttle vent I am missing is the linkage, I saw the great picture of the likage and would like to know if someone has one available or can send me the dimensions so I can fabricate one. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

Thanks,

 

New member dennist

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Hi

 

I have a 57 tr-3 and the only part of the scuttle vent I am missing is the linkage, I saw the great picture of the likage and would like to know if someone has one available or can send me the dimensions so I can fabricate one. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

Thanks,

 

New member dennist

 

 

Hi.

 

Paul at NDM sent me this, if you need any others let him know

He has dimensions

post-7047-127668947885_thumb.jpg

post-7047-127668954692_thumb.jpg

post-7047-127668947885_thumb.jpg

post-7047-127668954692_thumb.jpg

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Hi.

 

Paul at NDM sent me this, if you need any others let him know

He has dimensions

 

 

 

Thansk for the pictures, can you tell me how to reach Paul at NDM/ I would like to get the dimensions.

Thanks,

captainde

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Thansk for the pictures, can you tell me how to reach Paul at NDM/ I would like to get the dimensions.

Thanks,

captainde

 

Hi

His No, is 01271322526

 

Pete

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The whole thing is available now, lid and mechanism. Item number 60 part number 800912 http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr2-4a/body-chassis/body-panels/front-body-panels-tr2-3a.html

Stuart.

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Revising this thread to see if there is a relatively easy solution to two issues with my vent. 

First, the front of the vent stands proud when closed so the bonnet fouls on it when I open it. Solution is to open the vent before opening the bonnet...if I remember of course!

Secondly, the rubber seal is not fixed to the scuttle. 

The rubber seal may be too tall and so stopping the vent from closing sufficiently. If so. I need to remove the seal and 'shave it' in some way to reduce its height.

in order to remove it, do I need to detach the two springs and lever attached to the vent before undoing the two screws on the hinge at the rear of the vent (to remove the seal)? Or, is it possible to undo the two hinge screws without disconnecting the springs and lever?

Not really looking forward to this task but both the vent and bonnet are getting scratched too often. If this is all too difficult I might just cut out the rubber seal, shave it and glue it back into place. Not obsessed with originality!

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Miles, my recollection is that until you free the operating rod from the lever you cant open the lid far enough to do anything. Once the rod is released from the trunnion it is simple enough to disconnect the spring and get access to the screws that secure the hinge to the scuttle.

The repro seals are always too big and may need trimming on the top and the bottom to allow the lid to sit properly. There is a very small amount of adjustment and the tolerances are quite close. My repro lid was a smidge bigger and that complicated things further. For me it was all trial and error and compromise until I got it all to work. Then on the first time I tried to open the lid the rod pulled out of the trunnion.

Good luck, be patient and preferably not in the medical sense as there are sharp objects in there.

Stan

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Thanks Stan. As  I thought.

There is a spring on either side of the lever. If I release them, is there any risk of them disappearing into the bowels of the car? Being lazy as I admit I didn't look closely in that area when contemplating the problem. 

In terms of order of work, Stuart says detach lever first then springs. No reason to doubt Stuart (ever) but just want to make sure as this looks like a fiddly one!

Unrelated, but quite a few photos in this thread have survived which is useful.

Miles

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4 hours ago, MilesA said:

Thanks Stan. As  I thought.

There is a spring on either side of the lever. If I release them, is there any risk of them disappearing into the bowels of the car? Being lazy as I admit I didn't look closely in that area when contemplating the problem. 

In terms of order of work, Stuart says detach lever first then springs. No reason to doubt Stuart (ever) but just want to make sure as this looks like a fiddly one!

Unrelated, but quite a few photos in this thread have survived which is useful.

Miles

The greatest flight risk is the small trunnion that secures the rod to the lever. Once the lever is pulled out keep track of that trunnion as you dont want it to end up in the heater.

Stan

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