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Cracked Chassis


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Hi all,

 

Ive posted this on 6-pack so apologies if people here read both forums.

 

I had both front wheels off today (replacing brake lines) and noticed that the passenger side has had some strengthening work done on the lower suspension mount point. Looks like a plate has been arc welded in.

 

Unfortunately the drivers side doesnt have any strengthening, and has begun to crack around the mount area.

 

Has anyone had this problem before and whats needed to rectify it?

Can it be left for a few months (job to do in winter) or does it need immediate attention?

 

Is it the sort of thing a home DIY'er can fix with a gassless MIG? does the whole suspension assembly have to come off to get to the area to fix? What sort of ampage do you need to get good penetration of the weld?

Im also assuming that once fixed (cracks welded and ground back) that I`ll need to fit strengthening plates to the drivers side also to stop it happening again?

 

Thanks for any help/advise people can offer.

 

Andrew

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It does need doing immediately as it could possibly fail next time out on the road with nasty consequences. To do it properly you do need to strip the lower arms out so you can get to everything. I wouldnt have thought a gasless MIG would really be man enough to penetrate properly. I use a 160 amp mig about half way up the amps scale. You can buy a kit of re-enforcing plates from the usual suspects or make your own from 3mm steel.Note the angle of the forward plates on the rearmost mounts, this is to clear the mounting nuts and bolts.

MarksTR5086.jpg

MarksTR5087.jpg

MarksTR5088.jpg

MarksTR5089.jpg

Stuart

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Stuart,

Excellent photo,s.How do you manage that size as I can only post small thumbnails.I know this subject has been done to death but I am a computer dummy.

Regards Harry TR5 Nutter.

 

You need to set yourself up a Photobucket account (Free) and then its a bit like uploading your pictures here but you upload them to the photobucket site and once they are on there then you just copy and paste the "Direct link" which will show up on there if you hover the cursor over the required picture. Then use the upload picture tab above your reply. I tend to get my photobucket page up at the same time as I am answering a topic and then its just a quick couple of clicks to transfer them. As I have thousands of pictures of rebuilds I tend to only upload the relevant ones at a time but by doing it from photobucket the photos stay on here rather than having to remove them with due to our 500k limit so future references to specific topics still have the pictures there.

Stuart

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Stuart,

 

Many thanks for the photos. I`ll try to get the wheel off tonight and get some photos. Mines certainly not as clean as your chassis, but it does look different (any differences between the years?) but then again maybe I didnt pay much attention to the general arrangement and just the cracks!

 

Tony,

 

I keep failing miserably at getting round to see you! I was being all 'romantic' this weekend and took the car up the coast to Mindarie for a ride. Was very enjoyable and the TR didnt miss a beat. I`ll try to make it over this week...not permitting for sick kids and other life problems in the meantime. I`ll give you a call to make sure its still OK.

 

Ive just booked the car into Markich motors to get it fixed up next Monday, so I`ll speak with him and get the whole thing strengthened while Im there.

 

Im happier that at least the cracks will be welded up and repaired, as I can see over time the cracks getting longer and eventually breaking right off.

Only trouble is now is while the suspension is off, maybe its worth looking at bush replacement etc!

 

My poor bank balance :(

 

Hi Andrew,

 

It is also worthwhile adding (welding) a strengthener across here too. I've done these mods if you want to see them.

 

Cheers

 

Tony

 

 

MarksTR5088.jpg

 

Edited by someone1975
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I can remember when I was the Register's Technical Editor (1971-1986), we started to receive reports of suspension collapse on the TR4As, then later on, the TR5s and TR6s. Most owners were fortunate in that the collapse occurred at low speed, when the force required to turn the wheel left to right (and vice versa) in a manoeuvre is greatest. It was then that suppliers started to produce kits of parts to strengthen the mountings. In addition, the swinging arms and differentials started to fall off these IRS cars. These horror stories have reinforced my long-held belief that the IRS cars were never properly engineered, and that one is better off having the stronger TR2-4 model without these risks and without wobbly wheels at the rear.

Anyone owning a TR4A/5/6 needs to get all these mountings strengthened BEFORE an accident occurs! If left, it is possible that the owner may not live to enjoy the car, and that his/her executors may be left to "pick up the pieces".

Ian Cornish

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The welding on this thread is very boring. It lacks texture and dynamics.

 

By way of contrast...

 

Ivor

 

Wishbonemountweld.jpg

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The welding on this thread is very boring. It lacks texture and dynamics.

 

By way of contrast...

 

Ivor

 

Wishbonemountweld.jpg

 

Jeez, that looks familiar. You haven't hacked into my Picasa files have you?

Definitely done in the first week of MIG ownership, before purchase of the 500 watt workshop light, north end of the vineyard.

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Ha you think that's bad here,s why I had to replace one mount completely in the photos previously posted.

MarksTR5059.jpg

MarksTR5060.jpg

MarksTR5061.jpg

Stuart

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Ha you think that's bad here,s why I had to replace one mount completely in the photos previously posted.

Stuart

 

 

laugh.giflaugh.gif Quatermass and the MIG

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Stuart,

Excellent photo,s.How do you manage that size as I can only post small thumbnails.I know this subject has been done to death but I am a computer dummy.

Regards Harry TR5 Nutter.

 

In addition to what Stuart described, where you see the "UPLOAD Images & Video" button on Photobucket, just below it you'll see "(more options") where you can select the image size you want saved.

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You are all wrong , here is the one and only way to strengthen the brackets :lol::lol:

 

Blimey Jean judging by the state of the rest of the chassis that would be the least of your worries! ;):blink:

Stuart.

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JESUS!!!! I thought I had seen most bodges on the welding front but bloody hell,nothing,nothing like the pctures posted.They must be the worse finds ever or am I misstaken.Is there a worse find/picture out there to beat this!.Thanks for the info on posting pics Stuart and others.Amongst the many lethal bodges I have found in the past was welded up wheel studs on the front hubs.When tapped the welds parted.Could not beleive it.It is just as easy to do the job properly than bodge it.I do not understand the logic.But what do I know.......

Regards Harry TR5 Nutter and looking forward to a better time this year.biggrin.gifblink.gifrolleyes.gif

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Wow..there are some seriously dodgy welding jobs going on out there. I can only hope that someone hasnt paid good $$ into getting that sort of job done.

 

Anyway, as promised Ive climbed all over the front suspension (with the wheels still on so apologies if the pictures arent the best)and managed to get some half decent picture of the cracked chassis.

From what I can see, the strengthening plates are all welded in (and a pretty good job too) BUT the chassis has still cracked, but on the leading side.

Anyway..here are some of the pics Ive taken. Others are on the photobucket page if people want more.

 

Here you can see the overhead pic, with one strengthening plate on the right (right is towards the rear of the car). Seems to be missing the 2nd plate (as in Stuarts pics at the top of the page)

 

DSC_2392.jpg

 

Another pic from the side, again crack is front side of the rear-most wishbone mount (drivers side).

 

P2150124.jpg

 

One more from above, this time you can see the 2 crack lines.

 

P2150122.jpg

 

Anyway..hope you can get an idea of what it looks like.

Im slightly happier that at least the rear fixing of the mount is healthy, and already has one strengthening plate in. Least the whole drivers side front end wont just fall off...least not yet!

Monday I`ll get the additional plates welded in to prevent the other side from going.

 

Anyway..as per normal..any help/advise/pi$$ taking most appreciated. :lol:

Edited by someone1975
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That crack is typical of ones without the extra plate. That was what it was developed for. You will still need to strip it all out to get it welded properly though.

Stuart

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Hi Andrew,

 

Stuart is right, it will need stripping to be done properly. You are in good hands with Dave Markitch though, He has a good reputation here in WA. Ask him about all chassis mods while you are at it, it will pay dividends in the long run.

 

Cheers

 

Tony

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Stuart, this is what they sell on the Continent as a Californian import car B) and in so far buyers are made to believe that they are rust free :lol::lol:

 

Hmm briefly passed through California at sometime in its life ;):lol:

Stuart.

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