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Honeybourne Mouldings hardtop


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I think that one was the bargain of the week that everybody was falling over themselves to buy off the forum a couple of weeks ago. :angry:

Stuart.

 

 

 

That was Geoff P, I think - although is it the same one that's been bought by someone else and now being re-sold perhaps?

 

Stuart - I have sent you a PM

 

John

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So, coming back to the Honeybourne version, what do you think would be the cost of having it professionally sprayed a rather fetching shade of Wedgwood Blue?

 

Regards

 

Peter

 

 

Yes it will look cool Wedgewood Blue

Bugger that I want to know who I can trust?

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Gents,

 

The ad says Moss offer the glass - is it glass or plastic? Anyone know how it fits? :unsure:

 

 

Moss sell both the glass as well as the perspex item. I have no idea about fitment. Last time I checked, it was already 600 pounds :blink:

 

EDIT 6 days and 16 hours and 716 pounds already. Is this still worth it? One would have to fit the headliner, glass window, rubbers, chrome strip, have it prepped and painted. Could become quite expensive. Any estimates?

 

Regards,

Kristof.

Edited by TR4AIRS
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  • 1 month later...

Today I picked up my hardtop from Honeybourne Mouldings. I am very pleased with it. I got them to fit it for the first time, and it went OK. One can just see some mould imperfections if one looks really hard, but I view this as a functional add on and not a concours object. The inside is good and neat as well.

 

hardtop1.JPG

 

hardtop2.JPG

 

Roly

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Roly - As coincidence would have it, the hardtop that I ordered from Honeybourne arrived with me today (after slow shipment across the Atlantic with a bunch of other personal effects finally retrieved from the UK).

 

Obviously, I do NOT have them to fit it for me, so is there any chance you could post a couple of photos of the B-post attachment and the fitting at the top of the screen so I can copy the method?

 

Anything else you think pertinent would be great too (e.g. remove the lift-a-dot fittings or not, etc.).

 

Thanks!!

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Tim

 

Rocket science and elegance for fitting it aint!

 

I will get round to elongating the holes where the bolts from the front of the hardtop go through the hardtop itself, You can see the angle where they dont go straight down, the other side is similar.

 

It is necessary to push a screwdriver through the trim where the bolts would pass all the way through the top of the screen. One can feel the hole through the trim just in front of the visor.

 

The B post area is also simple.

The supplied bolts were not long enough for the B post clamp, so J bolts were substituted.

 

Tighten so that the seals seal, no need to hugely tighten......

 

The lift the dots remain in position.

 

Basically, drop top onto car, tighten down the front, tighten down the sides. It is that simple.

 

I am sure than one can make it look more business like very easily, if one so wanted.

 

hardtop3.JPG

 

hardtop4.JPG

 

hardtop5.JPG

 

I'll drop more images if you want.

 

Cheers

 

Roly

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Hi Roly,

not a bad job at all ;)

On the B post attachment would it be possible to bend the bracket that is sticking out of the HT so that it is pointing downward and flush(ish) with the side panel.

Then connect the bracket to the hood frame mounting hole with a flat extension piece.

It would put the icing on the cake.

 

Roger

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Hi Roly,

not a bad job at all ;)

On the B post attachment would it be possible to bend the bracket that is sticking out of the HT so that it is pointing downward and flush(ish) with the side panel.

Then connect the bracket to the hood frame mounting hole with a flat extension piece.

It would put the icing on the cake.

 

Roger

 

 

Yes I am sure there is a lot of scope for making the fixings look much better.

I did even wonder if the B post bracket could be arranged to be mounted with the hood sticks still in place.

 

Roly

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Yes I am sure there is a lot of scope for making the fixings look much better.

I did even wonder if the B post bracket could be arranged to be mounted with the hood sticks still in place.

 

Roly

 

 

I do hope so.

 

I was strongly tempted to buy one, but now that I've seen the B post fixing arrangements, it has put me right off (no offence Roly)

 

Regards

 

Peter

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I do hope so.

 

I was strongly tempted to buy one, but now that I've seen the B post fixing arrangements, it has put me right off (no offence Roly)

 

Regards

 

Peter

 

I wouldnt have thought it would be very difficult to make up some more discreet fixings than those and still be able to keep the hood frame fixed as well.

Stuart.

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I do hope so.

 

I was strongly tempted to buy one, but now that I've seen the B post fixing arrangements, it has put me right off (no offence Roly)

 

Regards

 

Peter

 

 

The real McCoy at £1,000 or more put me off :o

 

I would have thought that one could view this like a model making project where you buy the basic model and finish off to taste. Nice pieces of stainless steel should be quite easy to fashion, to get an expensive looking finish. Which has given me an idea as I work for a fasteners company which also has a range of marine products, I will go and take a look in our catalogue and ask for some samples.

 

Roly

 

 

Roly

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  • 4 years later...

Hello,

Sorry to revive an old thread but I'm thinking of getting one of the Honeybourne one piece tops for winter use on my 4A. I want to keep the car as a convertible, but having the option of being able to bolt on a lightweight lid for those days when the top just isn't going to go down sounds like a good idea to me.

I've got one slight concern in that my car has a roll over bar fitted at the back which I want to keep. I don't expect it would be a problem as all the race boys use these tops, but it would be good to know for sure that it will fit before buying one.

Does anyone have one fitted and the time to take a few measurements for me?

I need a height of 27" from the rear deck measured at a point 4" back from the front face of the rear deck. It needs 27" over the middle 22" or so then it starts curving down at the ends.

The bar was made for a 4A convertible and fits well under the hood, I'm not sure if the hardtop has the same height and window rake at the back.

Thanks in advance.

 

Keith

 

 

 

 

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Hey Keith - I have a 4 and have just fitted a rollover bar with the same dimensions as yours which fits easily under the TR4 hood. I have a Honeybourne one piece top too, although it's not fitted right now so I haven't checked clearance (although I can't imagine any issues as this top follows the shape of the original surrey/hardtop).

 

If no-one pops up with an answer in the next day or so, I'll drop my hardtop on to check for you.

 

Cheers,

Tim

Edited by TorontoTim
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Deleted my original post - need to re-read everything again!!

Edited by TRnorm
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Great timing for this topic, by coincidence I was talking with another TR owner this week, here in NZ about importing these hard tops as we are both thinking about one for our cars.. Just out of interest Tim what was the freight cost to canada! sounded like you opted for sea freight! I assume because of size.

 

Cheers Jim

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Has anyone managed to get a measurement yet?

The same measurement on the standard surrey top would be useful as I believe it is essentially the same dimensions.

 

Ta,

 

Keith

I will have a measure up for you tomorrow.

Stuart.

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Sorry for the delay...

 

My one piece fits comfortably over my bar which seems essentially identical to yours in terms of dimensions. My estimate it that it clears the bar by about an extra inch over the TR4 soft top.

 

I'm not sure where you are based, but is there any chance you could visit honeybourne and drop one of their tops on your car (assuming they have any in stock)?

 

Jim: I shipped it over with a number of other things, so don't have a definitive cost, I'm afraid.

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