Chris Mountford Posted January 31, 2010 Report Share Posted January 31, 2010 Hi, Congrats on the new purchase. A neighbour of mine used to come and chat to me when I was restoring my TR in the late 70's early 80's and eventually asked me to look out for one for him.......Apparently its a very infectious disease ! Anyhow through our local group he bought a '62 TR4, a red surrey topped, wire wheeled and overdrive car in bits. He started work on it and I recall going all over the country with him to source bits but try as I might I could not get him to buy it a new chassis that it so badly needed. Eventually he went on to Stags and never did finish the car and I heard some years ago that he had sold it, still unfinished. The link to the thread of this subject is the registration number, which is amazingly similar. That one was '77 YPP' and you say yours is '77 JPP' seems spookily close. All the above shows that I need to get out more and get rid of the anorak !!! Enjoy the car. Chris Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted January 31, 2010 Report Share Posted January 31, 2010 77 JPP is now mine! Sorry no photos at present but the basics are this; body is good, ready for paint just requires some minor finishing. Chassis is A1 amazing - new everything - the previous owner did a fantiastic body off restoration renewing everything - poly bushes etc - totally unused! Car was on the road until 1984. Milage 38K....could be 138K - no signs of wear on the bore but could be new liners. Has unleaded head - engine and gearbox are at least very clean (apparently were running fine). Many many spares, extra wire wheels! Sadly no original steering wheel, no sign of soft tops...but there are a lot of boxes! Take delivery next w/e. Well done I would like to think that my offer pushed you in the right direction Quote Link to post Share on other sites
randall977 Posted January 31, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2010 Sorry it is 77 YPP....! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
randall977 Posted January 31, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2010 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR 2100 Posted January 31, 2010 Report Share Posted January 31, 2010 77 JPP is now mine! Just to add my congratulations. Not only do you have a TR4, but you also seem to have got the perfect lead to find out a bit of its history. And it's the best model 4 as well - white dash, TR3A style seats, curved gauges etc. I'm biased, of course. I have many many photos of TR 2100, just a few weeks older than YPP, taken in about 1985, before restoration. I can forward a copy if you wish - just PM me with your email address. What body/trim colours are you thinking of? AlanR Quote Link to post Share on other sites
graeme Posted January 31, 2010 Report Share Posted January 31, 2010 Hi Alan PM sent Cheers Graeme Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chris Mountford Posted February 1, 2010 Report Share Posted February 1, 2010 Hi Randall I half guessed it would be the same car! Its a car I first met about 30 years ago in Penkhull just on the outskirts of Stoke (on trent) town centre and owned by one of the original members of the Stoke TR Register. as was the norm back then it was parked up under a tarpaulin in a semi dismantled state. It was for sale for £800 but from memory £700 bought it. As far as I am aware the engine never ran and it certainly never ran on the road. the owner had a few TRs and he may be known to some of the contributors on the forum. He sold it to my neighbour (he lived directly opposite) at Grange Rd, Cheddleton, Nr Leek, Staffs. The body was taken off and restoration started but as was the norm at the time (early 80's) the shell was mostly patched. The shell was put outside under yet another tarp and the chassis propped up against the garage wall. It was like that in when I moved house around 1990. The chap who owned it kept it like that whilst he restored a Stag and I think that car finished him off, old car wise that is! I understand he sold it to someone else in the village some years ago. Seem to recall it had its original green logbook with it, which showed it had spent a good part of its life around Burton Upon Trent. Glad to hear that someone has given it the good chassis that it needed, the original was really rotten at the back. Enjoy the restoration, it looks like a great project that can be completed within a 'reasonable' timescale. Despite your comments I think it has been off the road since the late 70's. 30 year resto to date.?!?! .....go on, bite the bullet, get it painted and have some fun. Too many people have dreamt of doing that in it already. If you want names and contact details of the previous owners let me know and I'll send you a personal mail. Regards, Chris Quote Link to post Share on other sites
randall977 Posted February 1, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2010 (edited) Very interesting - that does tie in with the information I have. The only thing that doesn't is the MOT certificate from 1984 and extra milage of around 60 miles between 1979 (when it was last taxed) and 1984. The head has just been rebuilt as unleaded and the bores appear to have no wear - I'm hoping it will run when reconstructed. I particularly don't want to rebuild the gearbox. I am assuming that after all the work the previous owner put into the chassis and body they didn't refit a dud engine... Alan - signal red, black interior. As original as possible but do intend to retrofit the following; Servo braking, Kenlowe and Alternator. Would love the photo please, will send you email.. Thanks, Christian Edited February 1, 2010 by randall977 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
randall977 Posted February 7, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2010 Here's a few photos of the 4 this evening - they're not fantastic and I've not had time to clean the dust off... Can anyone tell me what the electrical compnent is in the photo, also any comments on the rads? Any comments generally greatfully recieved! Thanks Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted February 7, 2010 Report Share Posted February 7, 2010 Looks as if you have yourself a bit of a bargain there! I would use the second rad (later type) as the first one looks as if has had a bit of a bodge around the starting handle hole.. The one with the long neck is correct for the year of yours so you may want to get it re-cored and the electric part that has definitely seen better days is the control box for the dynamo. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
hensh2004 Posted February 7, 2010 Report Share Posted February 7, 2010 Hi, This looks a very exicting project ,I bought a very similar condition car ,about two years ago,and although a bit scary the thought of putting it back together, with plenty of reference it,s been a great learning curve and skill builder .You must keep us all posted on your progress. Andy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
randall977 Posted February 7, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2010 Thank you for your encouragement and the useful info! I certainly will be posting losts of photos and updates - you'll be beginning me to stop! I now have a huge number of spares - almost three of everything - some of it too tatty to keep. I have two manifolds, one standard and one with two branches - a 4a manifold I assume? Should I be concerned that the seals at the base of the wet liners might have been disturbed due to people turning the crank without the head in place? My father-in-law mentioned a freind of his in the 50's ruining an engine because he turned the pistons during a rebuild...water got into the base of the pistons... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted February 7, 2010 Report Share Posted February 7, 2010 Thank you for your encouragement and the useful info! I certainly will be posting losts of photos and updates - you'll be beginning me to stop! I now have a huge number of spares - almost three of everything - some of it too tatty to keep. I have two manifolds, one standard and one with two branches - a 4a manifold I assume? Should I be concerned that the seals at the base of the wet liners might have been disturbed due to people turning the crank without the head in place? My father-in-law mentioned a freind of his in the 50's ruining an engine because he turned the pistons during a rebuild...water got into the base of the pistons... That can be a problem. If the engine is still in bits then it would be worthwhile checking everything and maybe fitting new fig 8 seals.. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
randall977 Posted February 7, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2010 (edited) Hmmm, the engine is as in the photo - if something needs doing it should be done now. What about replacing the wet liners and pistons as well (£250 TR Shop) - there doesn't appear to be much wear to the bore but if I've got to do the seals anyhow... Edited February 7, 2010 by randall977 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted February 7, 2010 Report Share Posted February 7, 2010 Hi The engine needs to come out anyway NEVER trust a so called rebuilt engine unless you know who did it plus to paint the engine bay and sort out the over spray it is the only way to go Quote Link to post Share on other sites
randall977 Posted February 7, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2010 (edited) Would it be against any forum rules for me to put a shopping list of the bits I need in case anyone has any of them??? I was planning to buy most from the TR Shop (hence the prices) - do you get a discount as a TR Register member? Wet liners, pistons and seals £250 Brake calipers seals £43 Rear windscreen seal £55 Front Windscreen seal set £39.50 Brake pipes £49.50 Kenlowe Electric Fan Kit £105.00 Goodridge brake hose set £32.50 Lower dash crash pad £130.00 Dash top crash pad £120 Stainless steel exhaust £120 Uprated water pump £58 Front discs and pads £100.00 Vent lid £13.95 Steering wheel (eBay) £100.00 Door weather strips £22.50 Bumper set (Harrington) £643 Alternator £50 Does this seem like a reasonable list? I've added a few upgrades... Edited February 7, 2010 by randall977 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RAHTR4 Posted February 7, 2010 Report Share Posted February 7, 2010 Christian, From your photos, that really does look a cracking basis for a rebuild. In these photos I can see a few items that have not been fitted to the front and rear suspension, which I am sure you will find during your checks. Also I think that, on the body, the original TR4 type strengthening triangular plate and channel stiffener is missing from the bottom rear of the door opening? I have sent you an e-mail with pointers on your photos, plus a few of my own car to show the differences - due to the notes I have inserted I am not able to post these on the Forum, not that clever with computers..........!!!! Regards, Richard Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kiwifrog Posted February 8, 2010 Report Share Posted February 8, 2010 (edited) I now have a huge number of spares - almost three of everything - some of it too tatty to keep. Christian Do not throw anything away or sell anything before you have finished the resto, even if bits are tatty they can be godsends as patterns, as for other spares use them as swaps IF YOU ARE CERTAIN that you have a servicable part to put on the car. I could be mistaken but the control box doesn't look right for your car. Great project good luck Alan Edited February 8, 2010 by Kiwifrog Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted February 8, 2010 Report Share Posted February 8, 2010 Would it be against any forum rules for me to put a shopping list of the bits I need in case anyone has any of them??? I was planning to buy most from the TR Shop (hence the prices) - do you get a discount as a TR Register member? Wet liners, pistons and seals £250 Brake calipers seals £43 Rear windscreen seal £55 Front Windscreen seal set £39.50 Brake pipes £49.50 Kenlowe Electric Fan Kit £105.00 Goodridge brake hose set £32.50 Lower dash crash pad £130.00 Dash top crash pad £120 Stainless steel exhaust £120 Uprated water pump £58 Front discs and pads £100.00 Vent lid £13.95 Steering wheel (eBay) £100.00 Door weather strips £22.50 Bumper set (Harrington) £643 Alternator £50 Does this seem like a reasonable list? I've added a few upgrades... TR Shop will do you probably the best prices around. Doesnt make any difference if you are club member or not.Their dash tops and crash pads are the best as well. Stuart Quote Link to post Share on other sites
randall977 Posted February 9, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2010 Crash pads - quite a bit cheaper from Moss than from the TR Shop...but are they the same quaility? Also, how much would an original steering wheel set me back? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted February 9, 2010 Report Share Posted February 9, 2010 Crash pads - quite a bit cheaper from Moss than from the TR Shop...but are they the same quaility? Also, how much would an original steering wheel set me back? The TR Shop ones are virtually the same as the originals and far superior to the Moss ones. Remember you get what you pay for Original steering wheels do turn up on ebay fairly frequently and don't fetch as much as some of the aftermarket ones. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
randall977 Posted February 11, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2010 I've placed a large order with the TR Shop but there are still a few parts I need - rear axle check straps - are these available anywhere (I'm sure I've seen joist hangers which look like them in Wicks...)? Also I would like to replace the speedo and Rev counter with domed ones - where would be best to get these? Thanks Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted February 11, 2010 Report Share Posted February 11, 2010 I've placed a large order with the TR Shop but there are still a few parts I need - rear axle check straps - are these available anywhere (I'm sure I've seen joist hangers which look like them in Wicks...)? Also I would like to replace the speedo and Rev counter with domed ones - where would be best to get these? Thanks The check straps arent available new but if you talk to Lukas at TR Shop he may have second hand ones. Last time I looked the domed glasses were available so just keep the instruments you have and change the glasses. its a lot cheaper . Stuart Quote Link to post Share on other sites
randall977 Posted February 15, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2010 Well not too much happened over the last few weeks but I have ordered over £1000 worth of parts from the TR Shop. Next step is to paint the engine bay so I can rebuild the engine, install the brakes and a steering wheel would be nice! A couple of questions; 1. The stainless steel bumpers available from Harrington look great but they tell me they are 4a bumpers - so smaller over riders and different spacing. I do have about 4 pairs of over riders so should I just buy the bumpers somewhere else and if so where? 2. I am going to fit the Kenlowe fan kit - should I also upgrade to an alternator - costs around £150 for the kit. Can the dynamo cope - any advice? Thanks Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted February 15, 2010 Report Share Posted February 15, 2010 (edited) Well not too much happened over the last few weeks but I have ordered over £1000 worth of parts from the TR Shop. Next step is to paint the engine bay so I can rebuild the engine, install the brakes and a steering wheel would be nice! A couple of questions; 1. The stainless steel bumpers available from Harrington look great but they tell me they are 4a bumpers - so smaller over riders and different spacing. I do have about 4 pairs of over riders so should I just buy the bumpers somewhere else and if so where? 2. I am going to fit the Kenlowe fan kit - should I also upgrade to an alternator - costs around £150 for the kit. Can the dynamo cope - any advice? Thanks Run it without bumpers for the minute and look round for good originals to get rechromed as the repros leave a lot to be desired. You could fit an alternator and change to Neg earth but the dynamo will cope for the short periods that it runs for as long as you have a good size battery.And don't leave it outside for too long in primer Stuart. Edited February 15, 2010 by stuart Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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