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TR6 FAN ON A 62 TR4 ,will it fit??


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Sounds pretty close to me.

Can you lean the rad away on the mounts?

If not, try sourcing the 6-blade "tropical-Spec" TR4/4a metal bladed fan. (or get a Kenlowe/ Pacet "pusher" fan hidden inside the radiator cowling!)

 

Adey

Edited by Ade-TR4
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Andy,

 

I think you will find that you will have to fit a fan extension piece and fixing bolt from a side screen car to obtain sufficient clearance.

 

The TR4 extension - 128318 - is 4.3/8" long.

 

The earlier type - 108493 - is 3.3/4" long.

 

Thus you gain 5/8" in clearance.

 

Regards, Richard

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Thanks chaps for the info,iv,e repostioned the rad further back by drilling a new hole further along the rad mounts and adjusted the two top bars aswell ,and it,s given me about 12 -13 mm clearence, which is about 5/8 in old money, which is what Richard said is the right gap in his reply , .Many thanks for both of your inputs . Andy

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Thanks chaps for the info,iv,e repostioned the rad further back by drilling a new hole further along the rad mounts and adjusted the two top bars aswell ,and it,s given me about 12 -13 mm clearence, which is about 5/8 in old money, which is what Richard said is the right gap in his reply , .Many thanks for both of your inputs . Andy

 

 

Andy,

 

Another thought, will the radiator duct still fit after moving the radiator that far forward?

 

Regards, Richard

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For my money fit an electric cooling fan kit - There are many on the market that are tried and tested.

 

If the fan is too close to the rad you will not be able to change the fan belt.

 

In the 70 s we'd make an electric cooling fan for our TR s with an old wiper motor, bits of Dexion, exhaust U clamps, length of wire and a switch, Meccano and an Ford Escort Mk 1 plastic fan. Today nearly every car in the breakers yard has an electric fan fitted, surely there is one there to adapt.

 

Just an aside here...

An old boss of mine was development/test engineer at Triumph when they had continual problems with plastic fan blades chewing into the radiator of certain models in very wet conditions.

 

The BOW test was born.....

 

It involved running the engine at 3000rpm with the bonnet open and tipping a B(ucket)O(f)W(ater) onto the rotating fan. That determined whether the fan blades had sufficient clearance from the rad when running on flooded roads. It also confirmed the strength of the plastic used for the blades. Too soft and they bent, too hard and they cracked.

 

What happens in the test is the water (think rain from the road) caused a non compressible flow around the blades making the tips 'bend' forward and chew into the rad.

 

Peter W

Edited by BlueTR3A-5EKT
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Thanks for all the comments ,want i had,nt realised was that the rad cap now fouls the underside of the bonnet because i,ve moved the rad back.(it must have been a close fit before) so much so, the bonnet won,t shut down ,i nearly had a nice rad cap shaped bulge on the bonnet!!!! .So it,s plan B an electric fan, and i,ll put the rad back to it,s origonal postion. Again thanks for all the valuable comments.Andy

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Am I right in thinking that a new rad is £550ish?

 

 

Hi Randall,

A couple of points - contact Moss and ask for one of their catalogues - they do contain one or two howlers, but are pretty informative and give you a good guide to prices of parts etc.

 

Second - how about joining the Register and then a local Group? The Forum is great for many things, but sometimes you just need to get your head under another bonnet and talk to like-minded people.

 

Regards

 

Geoff

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Thanks for all the comments ,want i had,nt realised was that the rad cap now fouls the underside of the bonnet because i,ve moved the rad back.(it must have been a close fit before) so much so, the bonnet won,t shut down ,i nearly had a nice rad cap shaped bulge on the bonnet!!!! .So it,s plan B an electric fan, and i,ll put the rad back to it,s origonal postion. Again thanks for all the valuable comments.Andy

 

It is, thats why I said it would foul.

Stuart.

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