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Hi All,

 

Had a big problem last night driving my TR6. I just bought the car into Australia and picked it up after hours from the guy complying it and drove it for the first time in 2 months. He replaced the fuel pump because there was rust on it and woudn't pass inspection for a safety certificate. Anyway, about 4kms into the drive I noticed a pretty strong smell of petrol (stronger than usual) coming from the boot but kept driving until it became overwhelming. After I pulled over to check it out, I just about s*^t myself. The high pressure hose had split and had dumped about 1/4 tank of fuel into the boot around the tyres etc (the dash lights weren't working since being "complied" another issue so I didn't notice the fuel going down quickly) but the car was still running. Anyway, I jerry rigged it to get it home (only another 2kms away) and in better light, the rubber hose is obviously shot.

 

My question is, (apart from I am getting sick of people working on my car and would rather do it all myself):

1) is there a special rubber to use to replace the fuel lines?

2) Am I better going to braided steel (although would there be vapour lock problems in a hot climate) ?

3) Should I (I probably should - dumb question) replace all the fuel lines and then I know for sure when things were replaced?

 

The amazing thing is the car didn't miss a beat and ran great even after 2 months of non-use and most of the fuel going into the boot. It obviously had enough being delivered to the engine even though most of it was going into the boot, and onto the wheels - and exhaust!

 

Anyway thanks for the reply. I did a quick search and everything came up with fuel filters of fuel tank replacement.

 

cheers

Duncan

 

PS anyone in the Brisbane area?

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I don't know if it's special enough, but stock fuel injection hose, as found at any car parts store, will get rid of all your worries. I wouldn't replace the hardlines with it, but for the flex, it'll do just fine.

 

If you have a burning desire to spend money, you can go braided and AN fittings, but it's overkill.

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I agree with Alan. A mechanic who particpates in the Moss Forum said he was seeing the effects of alcohol diluted fuel on regular fuel lines. His advice was the same as Alan's.

I checked the spec sheet for both types of fuel lines at a parts store; the fuel injection line was specified as being "alcohol resistant" whereas the regular fuel line had no such specification. So for a few extra dollars, I think it's worth the conversion.

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Hi guys. Thanks for the advice. After having a better look in the daylight. It appears the mechanic mounted the fuel pump incorrectly and when he shut the boot, the hinge ripped the hose and bent the pump (also looks like he broke 2 mounts - he also had 2 manuals in the car to help him if needed). Anyway, problem fixed with the suggested hose. I also noticed a bunch of new dodgy electrics that was not there 2 months ago. But that is another story. The irony here is that he did the repairs and signed off the safety certificate to allow the car to be imported back into Australia. Anyway, car is back and running well. Next weekend = electrics.

 

cheers

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He replaced the fuel pump because there was rust on it and woudn't pass inspection for a safety certificate.

 

 

 

Sounds like the bloke was looking for ways of making a few dollars off of you, the only rust you would see on the fuel pump would be on the casing and would not affect its operation! :angry: Did he give you the old pump back by any chance ???? <_< Of course he knows you will not complain or else the compliance certificate would be called into question. :huh: If you have to use a mechanic in future steering clear of this guy would be very wise!!!

 

Cheers

 

Alan

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Hi Alan

 

Yeah, they were trying to gouge me from the outset. The fact that the car was previously registered in Queensland meant that there was very little in the way of admin they could go after me for and charge for it. But he was the mechanic that had to comply the car for it to be legal upon reentry back to Oz - so he held all the cards so to speak. I'll check out and see what authority he is under and see if there is any process I can take. But the impression was "do as I say of I can make this very long and drawn out." His workshop was extremely disorganised as well. Anyway. It's over. I had similar issues bringing the car to NZ. They used an ultrasound on the frame, put in a hi-stop, had to get engineering reports for safety mods (eg. retractable seat belts), and a whole bunch more ridiculous minor things on an old car etc etc. The guy's comment in Dunedin was "if you don't like it, you can ship the car back and sell it." He even said he hates British cars. So, I think these guys have a captive market and know it. I think the trick here is to stop moving countries.

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Getting compliance for NZ still gives me sleepless nights - 8 years after I imported the car. Completely stripped and shoddily put back together, wiring loom cut, fuel lines cut, an expensive respray complete with rampant orange peel and in the slightly wrong colour, sandblasting media everywhere (it still comes out of the heating vents to this day), sandblasting pits on the bootlid....

 

 

:angry:

Edited by Mike Goldthorpe
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