Guest stagmann Posted March 19, 2004 Report Share Posted March 19, 2004 Ok, I've driven and owned quite a few V8 engined cars over the last twenty years, mainly stags but i have never driven a TR7 with one in. Well, now I own one and its somewhat completely Hatstand. Im not complaining though. It makes a great sound, would put olly Reed and George Best to shame due to the amount it drinks and [strangely] has superb brakes. The problem I have is the heavy steering. Yes, I know I have mentioned this before but im sure something is amiss. The whole of the front suspension has been renewed along with poly bushes and new steering joints but it just refuses to recentre after coming out of any corner. I have to fight to get it straight if the rear steps out. Any one got any suggestions ......? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
andrewt Posted March 22, 2004 Report Share Posted March 22, 2004 Is it lowered with an anti dive kit fitted, if so that is your problem. Lowering the car reduces the castor, then adding an anti dive kit reduces it even more. I would check your castor settings. Standard is something like 2 or 3deg, i expect you will find you have none or some the wrong way. I use a works type antiroll bar mount which pulls the anti roll bar forward approx 1/2" to give more castor angle. (around 7deg on a lowered car) I also prefer the car without the antidive. Stiffer springs don't really need it anyway. The car does self centre even though the steering is heavy enough to stop girlfriends from wanting to drive (part of the plan!!) Cheers Andy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest J Frith Posted March 22, 2004 Report Share Posted March 22, 2004 I have a modified original TR8 coupe ( kind of an Oxymoron that). I originally put wider wheels on it, these put all their extra width outwards from the car. They looked great filling the arches etc, but the stearing was very heavy. I have now fitted the works fibre glass arch kit, and even wider wheels 8" alround. The stearing is now lighter, the reason is that the extra width of the new wheels was inboard as well. Its all to do with the leverage on the stub axle in relation to the pivot points. The lowering of the front anti roll bar does also screw things up, I have 10mm spacers pushing the TCA arms back to where they should be. Hope this helps... :blues: Quote Link to post Share on other sites
andrewt Posted March 22, 2004 Report Share Posted March 22, 2004 I guess the spacers go behind the lower arm to push it forward? Similar result to the method i use of pulling the whole a/r bar forward, the difference being the spacer route will reduce the anti roll stiffness marginally. (Maybe not a bad thing of course) As always, one problem lots of good solutions. Andy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
chris turner Posted March 22, 2004 Report Share Posted March 22, 2004 An original TR8 coupe should have power steering. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest stagmann Posted March 22, 2004 Report Share Posted March 22, 2004 Thanks Guys. It is lower than it was and it does have the Anti Dive kit. I'll try it without the Anti dive set up and see if it makes any difference. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ajttriumph Posted March 25, 2004 Report Share Posted March 25, 2004 I have to fight to get it straight if the rear steps out. Any one got any suggestions ......? This is normal!! Even with the power steering they can be a handfull to keep on the road/track i added a limited slip differential to my 8 which makes it more controllable but it still can be a handful, the trick is to set the suspension up properly (softer at the back) and avoid letting the back end step out in the first place. I have found the 8 can be as bad as an early 911, during my first hill climb many years ago i managed to spin my 8 twice in the one run just because of a heavy right foot! Feed the power in smoothly and in most cases in the dry you shouldnt have a problem, traction just wont happen in the wet! even with wet weather racing tyres the car will be a handful. Best of luck Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Larry J-C Posted March 25, 2004 Report Share Posted March 25, 2004 I have had many 8s on many size tyres including 8 inch slicks at the front and never had heavy steering, even with a quick rack !! However do you have heavy steering or do you lack self centering? Also is the turn-in easy or do you have to fight the car into a corner? If it is just heavy sterring look at the toe in - between 0 and 1/4 degree toe in is all that is needed (I know some who even use a tad of toe out). If the steering lacks self centering check castor - as has been said by someone else about 3.5 degrees is more than enough any more and everthing becomes heavy. I hate to disagree with previous posts but it is too much castor that makes steering heavy, not too little so don't have more than 3.5 degrees. Also check that the steering is light with both wheels off the ground - if it isn,t then the rack could be binding (sometimes just loosening off the top and bottom knuckle joints to take any preload off the column works) you may also find that the top mounts are stiff. Finally if the problem is only as you state, ie it is only heavy when the back steps out - then I would agree with previous posts - welcome to world of cars with loads of grunt and b**gger all grip ! Larry Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest stagmann Posted March 25, 2004 Report Share Posted March 25, 2004 Cheers Larry. Its ok with the wheels jacked up so im going to take of the anti dive kit and take it from there. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
andrewt Posted March 26, 2004 Report Share Posted March 26, 2004 Agree with Larry re the steering being heavy with more castor. My thinking (and i apologise for not being very clear) was that if you have to turn the wheel to wind lock off due to lack of castor then this may give the perception of the steering being heavy. Mine with approx 7deg of castor turns in beautifully (such that the the tail will come out just from turning in hard on a trailing throtte) but if you then release the wheel the castor has the effect of actually starting to wind on opposite lock if you let go of the wheel. i.e. you don't need to force the wheel back, it lightens up & self centres. Hope that is clearer. Cheers Andy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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