bograt Posted December 5, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 5, 2009 My trigger wheel came from Trigger-Wheels.com and was "Trigger wheel with 1/2 pilot hole. Size 7.25inch". It was later machined to fit on the machined front pulley, and was then assembled and balanced. Took me a while to work out how to do it. I'd seen some ugly ones with the trigger wheel on the front of the pulley - not very elegant. Have you sorted out your temperature sender? I can post some info if you want. Cheers, Ian if you could please any info would be good Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bograt Posted December 6, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 6, 2009 Gary, For sure keep the updates coming .. I am thinking about having mine uprated to K3 system with Lambda sensor .. What I would like to know is which injectors and manifold are you going to use .. Thanks ... Brian hello Brian if you are the Brian who sent me the personel email send it again with your email adress or i cant answer your question regards gary Quote Link to post Share on other sites
harrytr5 Posted December 6, 2009 Report Share Posted December 6, 2009 I wouldn't mind betting there are plenty of us on this forum who would seriously consider the EFI route. If somebody was prepared to compile a step by step guide and offer modified components on an exchange basis, as well as readily available parts, I wouldn't mind betting there would be a market for it. Certainly the advantages of much better fuel economy, better performance and greater reliability make it a no-brainer for me over originality. Is there anyone interested in giving it a go? Simon I am with you on this one Simon.Been thinking about this for a while,but not a clue how to go about installing a system,or where to source parts. Regards Harry TR5 Nutter Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Squire Posted December 6, 2009 Report Share Posted December 6, 2009 if you could please any info would be good I've uploaded some photos with comments about the temperature sensor to - http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/ianmsquire/TR5EFITemperatureSensor# I used the existing blanked hole in the thermostat housing and bought a 5/8 inch UNF setscrew, then drilled and tapped it for the M12 sensor. Sensor supplied by Emerald. That way I retained the existing temperature sender for the car's temperature gauge. Cheers, ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jean Posted December 6, 2009 Report Share Posted December 6, 2009 Ian, did you map your ECU on a rolling road, I have a Lumenition ECU including software and laptop. Did some mapping, to say Fuel and Ignition are the easy parts. scalars are more tricky, the most problems I had was setting the TPS and load maps which interact with fuel and Ignition maps. For those thinking to make their own loom be warned that the resistance of the wires is correct, if not the sensors might transmit wrong voltage/resistance information to the ECU. The hardware is in my opinion the easy part, but get the software in accordance with your specific engine is another piece of cake. Manufacturers invest millions in ECU software, so do not expect to beat them As my friend Neil use to say: It's not plain sailling Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Squire Posted December 6, 2009 Report Share Posted December 6, 2009 Ian, did you map your ECU on a rolling road, I have a Lumenition ECU including software and laptop. Did some mapping, to say Fuel and Ignition are the easy parts. scalars are more tricky, the most problems I had was setting the TPS and load maps which interact with fuel and Ignition maps. For those thinking to make their own loom be warned that the resistance of the wires is correct, if not the sensors might transmit wrong voltage/resistance information to the ECU. The hardware is in my opinion the easy part, but get the software in accordance with your specific engine is another piece of cake. Manufacturers invest millions in ECU software, so do not expect to beat them As my friend Neil use to say: It's not plain sailling Jean, My map for fuel is primarily based on throttle position and rpm, with adjustment tables for water temp, air temp. As I have a wide band lambda sensor I was able to do various runs at fixed throttle position, recording the Air Fuel ratio (AFR), RPM and other parameters. I was then able to check the graphs and adjust the fuelling table to improve the AFR for a particular throttle and RPM. The Emerald system has an excellent recording facility, as well as a feedback system that can be used to automatically correct the fuelling based on the AFR. I was told that ignition timing is best done on a rolling road - they adjust the timing whilst measuring the power at a fixed throttle and RPM. Hence I went to Emerald and let them do a full setup on their rolling road, after I had done as much as I could. The end result is not up to modern car standards - as you say manufacturers invest millions - but it is a darn sight better than the Lucas PI system on my car ever was. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jean Posted December 6, 2009 Report Share Posted December 6, 2009 Ian, it looks like your ECU is by far more user friendly than the Lumenition ECU. It was designed for racing/rallying purposes and in so far has too many adjustment parameters. Unfortunately when I purchased it more than 11 years ago it had no loop capabilities to adjust itself by measuring the AFR. I fitted a Lamda probe and I can follow Lamda values while the engine is running, this on a laptop or on a removable AFR display on the dashboard. In addition to TPS value my ECU also retrieves air temp.,cooling temp. and air pressure etc... More parameters to be set are engine settings, map scalars,cold start mods, load scalars and acceleration scalars. Every one of these scalars includes 4 or 5 settings. With the laptop connected you can follow exactly what the engine is doing and you can change the different settings, but it's easier on a rolling road. My system was mapped at Sigma Engineering in U.K. for fast road use. I have several maps stored on my laptop, just have to load them in the ECU. One of the Maps I modified for economic cruise, but it shows a little hicup between 2300 and 2500 rpm when accelerating, would probably need another rolling road session to further streamline the acceleration curve I run exactly the same throttle bodies on TWM manifolds as in your picture with a Colvern TPS. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
johnny250 Posted December 7, 2009 Report Share Posted December 7, 2009 I used a 'ring gear' type wheel from TriggerWheels and machined the rear of the crank pulley to accommodate it, there is no need to modify the cross tube. I did a bit of a write up earlier in the year in TRaction. john Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bograt Posted December 7, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 7, 2009 I used a 'ring gear' type wheel from TriggerWheels and machined the rear of the crank pulley to accommodate it, there is no need to modify the cross tube. I did a bit of a write up earlier in the year in TRaction. john hi john thats the way i have now decided to do it i have drawn up a trigger wheel that will just need the pulley step maching , like yours if any one wants one let me know i'm going to get 6 made and 6 sensor brackets help spread the cost . emerald supplied trigger wheel would have been a bit to much trouble to fit and not the best solution . " live and learn " regards gary "bograt" Quote Link to post Share on other sites
had17462 Posted December 7, 2009 Report Share Posted December 7, 2009 Hi gary put me down for 1, regards nick. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Martti Ojanen Posted December 8, 2009 Report Share Posted December 8, 2009 Please check my EFI installation at My site Current problem with one large throttle is some kind of overlap between original throttle inputs causing little jerking at slow cruising speed and not very good idle run. I should have used the original throttle flaps. Martti Quote Link to post Share on other sites
alan atkinson Posted December 8, 2009 Report Share Posted December 8, 2009 (edited) You sure you don't have a vacuum leak anywhere in all that plumbing? Mine idles just fine with a single throttle, but then my manifold is all one piece. That said, it was horrible when my IAC wasn't right. Edited December 8, 2009 by alan atkinson Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tony Millward Posted December 8, 2009 Report Share Posted December 8, 2009 Please check my EFI installation at My site Current problem with one large throttle is some kind of overlap between original throttle inputs causing little jerking at slow cruising speed and not very good idle run. I should have used the original throttle flaps. Martti Hi Marti, Nicely presented site..well done. I clicked on the 'Hestec' link but unfortunately it's not in English. Is there a site which goes into detail (in English), that you know of?. Cheers Tony Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mk1PI Posted December 8, 2009 Report Share Posted December 8, 2009 You sure you don't have a vacuum leak anywhere in all that plumbing? Mine idles just fine with a single throttle, but then my manifold is all one piece. That said, it was horrible when my IAC wasn't right. Agreed, my single body gives a very even idle but IAC is a bit confusing to set up with Megasquirt.. how is your IAC set up? BTW I am now using my 2500 with Megasquirt EFI for my daily commute of about 50miles in varied freeway and congested stop start traffic... will report back mpg over a week or so .. this should be a absolute minimum for a TR set up for the open road if not "thrashed" as I don't hang about and a TR is lighter with smaller frontal area than a saloon. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
alan atkinson Posted December 8, 2009 Report Share Posted December 8, 2009 Agreed, my single body gives a very even idle but IAC is a bit confusing to set up with Megasquirt.. how is your IAC set up? BTW I am now using my 2500 with Megasquirt EFI for my daily commute of about 50miles in varied freeway and congested stop start traffic... will report back mpg over a week or so .. this should be a absolute minimum for a TR set up for the open road if not "thrashed" as I don't hang about and a TR is lighter with smaller frontal area than a saloon. By getting rid of it. It was more trouble than it was worth. Used the setup from an 80s Nissan instead. It plumbs into the IAC port and just works... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
sixnick Posted December 21, 2009 Report Share Posted December 21, 2009 hello all any one out there in tr6 land have experiance of fitting electronic fuel injection and managment system in particular emerald to a pi tr6 regards gary bograt. if no one has done this i'm about to undertake this. can keep you all informed if you want Hi Gary I used the parts from Emerald,I used the trigger wheel as a template to cut in to the pulley direct.I used early pi manifolds with original butterflies. The front one now has a spindle with D shape sticking out to the front of engine with with bracket and pot fitted. Ive fitted a tech edge wb Lambda sensor to rear box so it can be run in closed loop or adaptive modes.I have a coil pack and no distributor. just some work to do with maps. Good luck Nick Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dave I O W Posted January 2, 2010 Report Share Posted January 2, 2010 hi john thats the way i have now decided to do it i have drawn up a trigger wheel that will just need the pulley step maching , like yours if any one wants one let me know i'm going to get 6 made and 6 sensor brackets help spread the cost . emerald supplied trigger wheel would have been a bit to much trouble to fit and not the best solution . " live and learn " regards gary "bograt" Hi Gary I could possibly be interested in a trigger wheel and sensor bracket when you have them made. Ive been following this topic with great interest keep us all posted your doing a great job. Cheers Dave. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bograt Posted January 2, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 2, 2010 hi all i have the trigger wheels made and one fitted to my car . i'm just finishing the throttle bodies ect . have been dealing with emerald and they are going to take some with my new design Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mk1PI Posted January 3, 2010 Report Share Posted January 3, 2010 BTW I am now using my 2500 with Megasquirt EFI for my daily commute of about 50miles in varied freeway and congested stop start traffic... will report back mpg over a week or so .. this should be a absolute minimum for a TR set up for the open road if not "thrashed" as I don't hang about and a TR is lighter with smaller frontal area than a saloon. Well my first 1000kms or so gave 25.6mpg commuting into Perth City everyday and towing trailers of combustibles (fire season) to the dump. Running very smoothly... no sign of any pinking so probably a little rich which I can live with until a Dyno session to set the max torque and max bhp fuelling / advance. I can work back from these maximums reducing the fuel a bit and advancing the ignition a tad at key points until best possible economy is achieved. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tony Millward Posted January 4, 2010 Report Share Posted January 4, 2010 hi john thats the way i have now decided to do it i have drawn up a trigger wheel that will just need the pulley step maching , like yours if any one wants one let me know i'm going to get 6 made and 6 sensor brackets help spread the cost . emerald supplied trigger wheel would have been a bit to much trouble to fit and not the best solution . " live and learn " regards gary "bograt" Hi Gary, Can you put me down for one too please. Cheers Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tony Millward Posted January 4, 2010 Report Share Posted January 4, 2010 Hi all, Just want to say thanks to Andy (MK1PI) for taking the trouble to pop in and explain the EFI system. Also for supplying me with a large butterfly valve, fuel rails, injectors and a 6 way HT coil block. You made it look a lot easier than trying to understand the Megasquirt website... Cheers Andy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mk1PI Posted January 4, 2010 Report Share Posted January 4, 2010 It was a pleasure. Hope the links I sent help make a bit more sense. Did the msq file work in Megatune? Good luck with the rebuild journey Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tony Millward Posted January 5, 2010 Report Share Posted January 5, 2010 It was a pleasure. Hope the links I sent help make a bit more sense. Did the msq file work in Megatune? Good luck with the rebuild journey Hi Andy, The links were really useful and I have yet to thoroughly go through them and absorb the info. I haven't tried the msq file yet as I have some emergency phones to set up and program but will play over the weekend. Bruce (Pollock) has agreed to machine the aluminium fuel rail for me which is great. Thanks again. Cheers Quote Link to post Share on other sites
alan atkinson Posted January 5, 2010 Report Share Posted January 5, 2010 You made it look a lot easier than trying to understand the Megasquirt website... Now there's a way to waste hours and hours. Which way are you going for spark? If you aren't set yet, take a hard look at EDIS-6. It's ubiquitous here on 80s Fords (so cheap) and the limp mode is really nice to have. If I ever upgrade and don't go full custom sequential, that is going in. Of course I'd have to ditch the 60_2 on the front that's not hooked up to do this... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tony Millward Posted January 5, 2010 Report Share Posted January 5, 2010 Now there's a way to waste hours and hours. Which way are you going for spark? If you aren't set yet, take a hard look at EDIS-6. It's ubiquitous here on 80s Fords (so cheap) and the limp mode is really nice to have. If I ever upgrade and don't go full custom sequential, that is going in. Of course I'd have to ditch the 60_2 on the front that's not hooked up to do this... Hi Alan, The EDIS-6 is the way I will be going. This is the one that Andy uses too. EDIS-6 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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