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Crank rear oil seal conversion instructions


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Hello,

 

The kit fitting instructions says that " You have to drill 2 extra 3/8" dia. oil drain holes in the bottom of the rear main cap, one each side of the original at a similar angle. This will remove all unecessary pressure from the seal and will not affect you oil pressure or the main bearing lubrication ".

 

 

But the figure provided do not shows if the holes have to be parallel to the original hole and in that case it should look like the red dots on the two pictures (notice that the red dot are done by me as a projection for the holes.)

 

Can someone who had the opportunity to see these holes confirm or invalidate this proposal.

 

Regards,

 

Guy Notte

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Edited by gnotte
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I think that is correct, its about 4 years since I had mine done but I was supplied with a good engineering drawing and not red dots.

 

I am certain others will confirm/deny my findings very soon Guy.

 

Ascroll comes to mind too!

Edited by pfenlon
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To confirm,

 

You must drill the holes to reduce pressure build up.

 

I assembled an engine and omitted the new holes. The engine leaked a large amount of oil.

 

I removed the bearing cap and drilled the holes and have stopped oil leakage.

 

I drilled the holes, positioned by eye, with a pistol drill. The bearing caps are cast and easy to drill,

 

Regards,

 

Tony

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Thanks Tony but my question was how to drill the holes,I have drawn two red dots on the photos of the cap to show how I imagine the in and out site of the hole will be, is that correct ?

regards, Guy

Edited by gnotte
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Guy,

 

I drilled my holes for a crankshaft seal yesterday like Tony says, I used a pistol drill.

 

Clamp the bearing cap bearing mating surface down and put a small piece of wodden dowel in the existing hole to use as an angle guide.

 

Then centre pop your starting points approximately where you have mafked your red dots and drill a pilot hole with a 3/16 or similar drill keeping in line with the piece of dowel. You should end up with your pilot hole emerging in the root of the oilway on the other side.

 

Because you are only drilling through relatively soft casting material you can make fine adjustments as you progessively open out your holes to 3/8.

 

Worked for me, but like you I was nervous until I saw Tony's comment so thanks for raising the subject.

 

Rgds Ian

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