klashorst Posted October 13, 2009 Report Share Posted October 13, 2009 A colleague of mine has a TR6C that is leaking strongly at the front part. Replacing the oil seal seems to be in order. Does he need any other parts than the oil seal and a new gasket? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
foster461 Posted October 13, 2009 Report Share Posted October 13, 2009 A colleague of mine has a TR6C that is leaking strongly at the front part. Replacing the oil seal seems to be in order. Does he need any other parts than the oil seal and a new gasket? It depends on what you find once you pull the front cover off but the timing chain tensioner and even worn out timing gear are all candidates for replacement at this time. Be aware that the timing cover bolt that is under the dowel on the left hand side goes into a waterway so be prepared for that by either draining the block before you start or sticking your finger in to stop the flow. Oops sorry, wrong northern European country Check the condition of the crank damper and the fan belt while you have those on the bench. And make sure the leak really is from the timing cover and/or the front oil seal and not from the oil pan or the front engine block, two other popular places to leak from. Stan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Red 6 Posted October 13, 2009 Report Share Posted October 13, 2009 As above. If it were my car I would replace the timing chain, the tensioner as well as the oil seal. That way when its back together it will sound like something good has been done. Changing the chain and tensioner is very straightforward and easy. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mk1PI Posted October 14, 2009 Report Share Posted October 14, 2009 (edited) Be aware that repro tensioners currently available are very poor quality (too soft) ... best stick with the original if it looks OK. Duplex chains are VERY hardy and rarely develop serious play except at huge mileages... best leave it alone (and consequently the timing etc) if it seems in order. One thing you may need is a refaced or speedisleeve on the (detachable) crank spacer in front of the gear wheel where the oil seal runs.. this can develop a groove and make a decent seal difficult to achieve. Beware overtightening the bottom screw/bolt as it is into the (cheeselike) alloy of the front bearing bridge thingy. These will strip in an instant causing more leaks. http://www.imaconstruction.com/sealingblock.htm These look like the ultimate solution A trick to prevent damaging the seal on replacement is to install the timing cover with new seal BEFORE putting the crank spacer on. Grease it up and gently slide it through the seal and tap into place before refitting the front pulley etc. BTW removing the waterpump + housing whole will make access a lot easier.. so get a new head to waterpump gasket too Edited October 14, 2009 by Mk1PI Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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