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rodofcv

TR2 overheating

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I've just been reading through the 'overheating' threads of the past in an attempt to find a possible solution to my overheating problem but there's soo much information my little brain couldn't take it all in and I'm not sure that my particular situation was described. If I describe what happens here, I'd be very grateful if some of you with much patience would suggest a possible solution.

 

My engine had had some (unknown) work done on it before I bought the car but it then stood idle for 16 years during which time it was only turned by hand. Recently the engine has been started again. The radiator is new; all hoses are new; the water flows freely from the drain plug at the back of the block; the thermostat is new. The engine was left to tick over and we could tell from the gauge when the thermostat opened and the bottom of the radiator got hot. On taking the car for an intended quickish run of about 2 miles, the temperature gauge shot up to the stop in literally just a few seconds. When it had cooled a little (but still hot enough to require a protective blanket) there was no hiss of pressure when the radator cap was released. Some time later we ran the engine with the thermostat housing off to check the water pump and though water was moving it was no Trafalgar Square fountain. There are no water leaks to the outside world, there is no steam in the exhaust. What happened to the pressure that should have been released by the radiator cap?

 

From what I read, it would seem that the head gasket and/or water pump are the usual suspects but your views would be most welcome.

 

Many thanks

Rod

Edited by rodofcv

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Sounds like the water pump is slipping, some of the threads point to this as a common problem. Maybe its fine on tickover and slipping under load causing the sudden rise when driving.

 

Just my 2p worth.

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Check the car has the correct pressure cap. There are some which do not seal the radiator as the plunger on the bottom of the cap is not long enough to seal against the radiator filler hole shoulder. Been there done that

 

Cheers

 

Alan

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Kwikfrog is correct in that the pressure cap has to have the cirrect length so that it seals properly on the inner ring of the radiator.

 

I took a rubber hose from the overflow to a pressure vessel mounted opposite the distributor . This vessel has a 4 lb pressure cap and an overflow of it's own. The radiator has a plain cap with no spring. The pressure vessel is only 1/2 full and as the water heats it expands and as it cools water is drawn back in to the radiator. This system leaves the neck of the radiator always full of water and I never overheat. Long jams in hot weather can show an increase on the guage and the Kenlowe will cut in. I never have to shut off the engine now. I used to in the past but it was a dreadful starter when hot. A recon distributor from The Distributor Doctor cured that nonsense after 12 years and now it starts like a modern car. I also have a fancy water pump from Racetorations which although a bit costly has eliminated all the leaking pumps and spindles and seals and nonsense. It is very important to buy a new pulley at the same time from the same maker and always fit both at once. Don't forget to slip a bolt through the lower pump fixing before fitting the new pulley.

 

My overheating problems have gone away. Is your new radiator also 16 years old? Good luck.

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It might actually be a good idea to get a digitial laser type thermometer and check the engine temperature at varying points (radiator top, back of block, front of block etc)

 

Sometimes the temp senders can send false readings to the gauge, so it looks like it is getting hot when it isn't.

 

Has the capillary type temperature sender been changed for an electrical switch and different gauge?

 

Just a thought.....

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Is the correct sleeve thermostat fitted, if not is the bypass hose virtually blanked off (see other threads). I haven't got a fan on my 2 and it is a VERY rare that I ever have to switch on the electric one.

Best of luck

Nigel (with TS952)

 

ps Peter if you read this, providing it stops raining tomorrow I will get the photo's off.

Edited by Nigel Lay

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Hi Rod,

I had a similar problem with my TR2 even after I had the block cleaned out.

I solved it in 3 ways:

1) A Kenlow fan

2)I made up a stainless steel heat shield between the exhaust manifold and the carbs, this stopped the problem of fuel vaporisation on restarting when the engine was hot.

3)I ran a piece of flexible ducting from just behind the radiator to play cold air on the engine.This is simply fixed with cable ties.

 

I now have no problems.

I hope this helps

Roger

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most cheap multimeters have a thermo coupling - run the engine up to temp with the rad cap off and stick it in the rad neck and find out what the temp actually is when the gauge is showing hot.

 

andy

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Thanks very much one and all. All avenues will be explored until a satisfactory solution is found.

 

Rod

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