jstone Posted May 24, 2009 Report Share Posted May 24, 2009 Hi All, Complete the long overdue Oil change and sods law the Sump gasket has now failed !! Are all sump gasket available from teh usual suspects the same ? Or is there a preferred one that gives plenty of live ? Any opinions / experience would be gratefully received. Thanks Jeremy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jstone Posted May 24, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 24, 2009 Hi All, Complete the long overdue Oil change and sods law the Sump gasket has now failed !! Are all sump gasket available from teh usual suspects the same ? Or is there a preferred one that gives plenty of live ? Any opinions / experience would be gratefully received. Thanks Jeremy Sorry, also meant to ask, if the sump is off is it worth replacing the big end bearings ? How easy a job is it ?? Thanks Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR6 Poor Posted May 24, 2009 Report Share Posted May 24, 2009 I would check to make sure the bolts are tight on the sump first. Usually it is not the sump gasket, it is the timing cover or seals that leak, and the oil runs down on the sump. I would check the sump bolts, and clean all the oil off, drive the car and then look and see if it is coming from somewhere above the sump. Cheers Quote Link to post Share on other sites
88V8 Posted May 25, 2009 Report Share Posted May 25, 2009 .. if the sump is off is it worth replacing the big end bearings ? How easy a job is it ?? If checking the sump bolts don't overtighten the ones that thread into the alloy sealing blocks easy to strip. Big ends in general - not TR6 in particular - show measurable wear after 15,000 miles, so as routine maintenance it may be worthwhile. You need to know the size, has the crank been ground? I would also change the big end bolts & nuts, although again check you are not throwing away something special such as ARP. Drain the oil a day ahead so you don't get dripped on (much ) Spark plugs out fan belt off, should be able to rotate the engine by hand by pulling crank pulley whilst lying underneath One at a time. Don't mix the caps. After each replacement check the engine still rotates easily. Careful not to scratch the crankpin with the con rods when manouevering them to get the top shell out. Don't worry about pushing the conrod up the bore you can't push them too far, not so happy pulling down the bore beyond their normal travel if the rings come out you're f....d. Lube the new shells liberally by oiling the crankpin, don't get oil between the shell and the conrod. Observe the tightening torque. Ivor Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jstone Posted May 25, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 25, 2009 Hi All, Found the leak. It was P*ssing out of the braided hose that I had used as a loop back / closed system from the spin on oil filter as I have not put a oil cooler in yet. Does any body know where I can get a 2 female connector braided hose with a decent pressure tolerance that will fit onto the spin on oil filter fittings ? for a sensible price ? Cheers Jeremy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Alec Pringle Posted May 25, 2009 Report Share Posted May 25, 2009 Hi Jeremy, try your local hydraulics shop - the place that looks after JCBs, diggers, that kind of thing. They'll probably knock up what you need for a very few quid, while you wait if you're lucky. Cheers, Alec Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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