lynchpin Posted May 11, 2009 Report Share Posted May 11, 2009 Hi all While out on Sunday for a drive around the south downs the 4 decided to dump some of its water, on inspection today i have found that the solid pipe from the rear of the water pump housing has cracked about 1" back from the union connection. The pipe runs along the side of the block around the back of the engine where it connects to one of the heater hoses. It looks like the poor old thing is suffering metal fatigue, as it looks quite thin walled i am not sure if it would weld. Any idea"s where i might get a replacement or has anyone out there had one repaired. Cheers for any help Phil.. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dale Moore Posted May 11, 2009 Report Share Posted May 11, 2009 Hi Phil Pipe in question is :- item 208606 PIPE, pump housing to bulkhead Available from Moss etc Regards Dale Quote Link to post Share on other sites
badshead Posted May 11, 2009 Report Share Posted May 11, 2009 (edited) Hi PhilPipe in question is :- item 208606 PIPE, pump housing to bulkhead Available from Moss etc Regards Dale I'm not sure these are still readily available as I've seen a few replaced with a bit of domestic copper tubing (15mm?) with soldered elbow - either way, you'll also need the olive for the connection to the water pump housing. Edited May 11, 2009 by badshead Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Menno van Rij Posted May 11, 2009 Report Share Posted May 11, 2009 They were readily availabe a few years back. No problem getting a new one then (Moss) Menno Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RAHTR4 Posted May 11, 2009 Report Share Posted May 11, 2009 Hi all While out on Sunday for a drive around the south downs the 4 decided to dump some of its water, on inspection today i have found that the solid pipe from the rear of the water pump housing has cracked about 1" back from the union connection. The pipe runs along the side of the block around the back of the engine where it connects to one of the heater hoses. It looks like the poor old thing is suffering metal fatigue, as it looks quite thin walled i am not sure if it would weld. Any idea"s where i might get a replacement or has anyone out there had one repaired. Cheers for any help Phil.. Phil, I have a new and unsued water pipe - pump to bulkhead. If interested send me a P.M. with your e-mail and I can send you photos etc. Regards, Richard Quote Link to post Share on other sites
littlejim Posted May 11, 2009 Report Share Posted May 11, 2009 Mine was clapped at the heater end. I've used copper water pipe to replace it; was able to retrieve the old olive to use at the WP end. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
phil.elsdon Posted May 12, 2009 Report Share Posted May 12, 2009 Hi Mine broke just behind the nut on the water pump housing, got a new stainless steel one from Rimmer for less than £20! Needed a small amount of fettling to get the bracket to fit, but otherwise looks great and will last forever! Phil Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted May 12, 2009 Report Share Posted May 12, 2009 (edited) They usually turn up from the people who do stainless master cylinder blocks etc. Always at International etc. But as already noted they do need a bit of fettling to get the right shape and are a pain to fit over the rear manifold stud and get the pipe far enough into the housing to get the nut to squash the olive up! If you are replacing with copper pipe dont forget to swage ( or compress another olive on to) the end were the rubber heater hose fits as otherwise they will slip off under pressure. Stuart. Edited May 12, 2009 by stuart Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianc Posted May 12, 2009 Report Share Posted May 12, 2009 And make sure the pipe is supported at the point where it passes the Number 4 exhaust manifold stud, else it will be moving whenever the engine moves (i.e. all the time) and will leak at the joint to the pump. The standard article has a small bracket at this point. Ian Cornish Quote Link to post Share on other sites
lynchpin Posted May 12, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 12, 2009 Hi All Thanks for all your helpful replies, I have got a pm from bob who has one spare, also a friend of mine says he can braize the pipe instead of weld which will not get too hot. Will let you know how it turns out.. Phil.. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
lynchpin Posted May 12, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 12, 2009 Phil, I have a new and unsued water pipe - pump to bulkhead. If interested send me a P.M. with your e-mail and I can send you photos etc. Regards, Richard Hi Richard Have been offered a pipe from Bob waiting to see how far away to post it, will be in touch if i need it . Thanks again Phil.. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted May 12, 2009 Report Share Posted May 12, 2009 Hi Stuart, to aid fitting the pipe bracket onto the rear manifold bolt, cut the bracket across the attachment hole so that you end up with a 'D' shape this way it simply slips into position under the spring washer. I know it is not a great engineering answer but does work. The other way is to remove the bracket altogether and have a seperate clip arrangement to hold the pipe to the manifold stud. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bob-menhennett Posted May 13, 2009 Report Share Posted May 13, 2009 Phil I've sent you another p.m. Bob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mandarawessels Posted May 13, 2009 Report Share Posted May 13, 2009 ' also a friend of mine says he can braize the pipe instead of weld which will not get too hot' these pipes can simply be soldered! cheers John. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
lynchpin Posted May 13, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 13, 2009 ' also a friend of mine says he can braize the pipe instead of weld which will not get too hot' these pipes can simply be soldered! cheers John. Hi all Have got a pipe coming from Bob and will keep repaired one as a spare thanks again for all the help Phil Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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