TR4A Lever shocks

[ricky30dk]

4 minutes ago, Bleednipple said:

I would certainly try taking it off and see how it handles without. 

Nigel

I will try that - I presume that I could simply disconnect one side for a test run 

[stuart]

9 minutes ago, ricky30dk said:

Hi Micky,

sorry if I used the wrong term - I picked it up from here : https://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/17836-1966-tr4a-solid-axle-problem/ , which seemed to describe the same issue I am experiencing. Some comments in that thread suggest it’s a design “feature” or that a rear ARB will help, others that it isn’t and it won’t, but there was no conclusion as the author was intending to fit a different transmission system. Both you and Stuart point to the rear spring shackle bushes, so I will take a look again - I also realised that I hadn’t replaced item 51 in the above diagram - could wear in that also magnify the torque steer?

I very much appreciate your insight - there doesn’t seem to be much consensus of opinion, as far as I can tell.

cheers

Richard

 

If your front spring eye bush (item 51) is worn then yes your rear axle will move around enough to give you rear steer, I dont run any roll bars and with extra spring clamps on the rear and uprated rear shocks and front spax up at 8 out of 12 clicks mine corners on rails with minimal body roll, try disconnecting the front ARB (Both sides or your asking for trouble) and see what its like but your definitely going to need to do those bushes anyway.

Stuart.

Edited May 31, 2020 by stuart

[ricky30dk]

On 11/26/2019 at 10:19 AM, stuart said:

I would get your shocks rebuilt by  Stevson 

I would also replace the spring eye bushes and replace the rear shackle bushes with polybushes as well. I have a solid axle 4a and its very stable at high speed and can be thrown through bends with lots of confidence as I know where its going to go. I would also check your front shocks and bushes too.

Stuart.

I guess it helps to read posts properly in the first place.....if removing the front ARB doesn’t help, I will get new rear springs and spring eye bushes... 

[stuart]

1 minute ago, ricky30dk said:

I guess it helps to read posts properly in the first place.....if removing the front ARB doesn’t help, I will get new rear springs and spring eye bushes... 

Best read the other thread about reconnecting the shock links if you get new springs then as the new ones are too deep a dish really and I had a lot of problems fitting them and they still sat on the bump stops for ages, I would be inclined to just fit new bushes to your originals, get your shocks uprated and if you feel its still a bit soft on the rear then get some spring clamps to stiffen your originals up.

Stuart.

[ricky30dk]

Thanks Stuart - I will try that

[Motorsport Mickey]

No trouble Richard, it’s a forum and everybody Is entitled to an opinion, it’s up to you to define which may be more on the mark.
Basically if you have power on and the car wants to take off into the boondocks, and as soon as you take the power off it tucks in there’s something not compressed or loose in the suspension... normally the rear. Tighten up everything you’ve fitted and then try it again and see if you can notice a difference.

Mick Richards

[Andy303]

On 11/27/2019 at 3:29 AM, Lebro said:

I had that "torque steer" effect on my TR3 many years ago, it was caused by the locating pip (bolt) on the leaf spring moving back & forth in the hole which is in the bracket below the  axle. The hole had become worn into a slot. each time I accelerated, the axle would slightly move on one side thus causing a change in direction !

Fixed with a bit of welding.

Bob.

Regarding torque steer, rear twitch,  or yaw on acceleration as usual Bob's diagnosis was on the money. Having finally gotten around to digging into the problem  the issue was indeed the bracket or perch located on the bottom side of the axle tube. In my case the bracket was pushed in concave and the hole was badly worn so that the pip or bolt head on the spacer was no longer well locked into the hole. A new plate with the correct size hole was welded onto the perch. the spacers also need some attention.

There was also the case on another TR4 SRA as discussed in this thread on the Triumph Experience site: https://www.triumphexp.com/forum/tr4-and-tr4a-forum.7/diagnosis-rear-axle-movement-question.1694317/

 

[stuart]

15 hours ago, Andy303 said:

Regarding torque steer, rear twitch,  or yaw on acceleration as usual Bob's diagnosis was on the money. Having finally gotten around to digging into the problem  the issue was indeed the bracket or perch located on the bottom side of the axle tube. In my case the bracket was pushed in concave and the hole was badly worn so that the pip or bolt head on the spacer was no longer well locked into the hole. A new plate with the correct size hole was welded onto the perch. the spacers also need some attention.

There was also the case on another TR4 SRA as discussed in this thread on the Triumph Experience site: https://www.triumphexp.com/forum/tr4-and-tr4a-forum.7/diagnosis-rear-axle-movement-question.1694317/

 

Either caused by stretched U bolts or poorly located axle when it had been re-fitted at sometime previously.

Stuart.

[Tr4aJim]

When I took the leaf springs off my TR4A, I found that the inner U bolt was passed through the slots in the perch welded to the axle tube. The outer U bolt was just sitting on top of the axle tube, though behind a small tab welded to the tube. Perhaps having the inner U bolt captured by the perch helps stabilize the leaf spring? Here’s a picture of my reassembled spring.

Jim 

[stuart]

1 hour ago, Tr4aJim said:

When I took the leaf springs off my TR4A, I found that the inner U bolt was passed through the slots in the perch welded to the axle tube. The outer U bolt was just sitting on top of the axle tube, though behind a small tab welded to the tube. Perhaps having the inner U bolt captured by the perch helps stabilize the leaf spring? Here’s a picture of my reassembled spring.

Jim 

That isnt right, they should both go either side of the bump stop.

Stuart.

[Tr4aJim]

Hi Stuart. When I found mine configured that way at disassembly I was skeptical too, so I posted a query about it on the Triumph Experience forum. Another solid axle TR4A owner said his was configured the exact same way (see the picture below). On both his car, and mine, there is a wider “slot” on the inner side of the steel perch, that allows the U bolt to pass through. Also when I did a trial fit of the inner U bolt sitting outside of the perch, the U bolt appeared slightly splayed off vertical when passed through the lower mounting plate. 

Oh BTW - the RATCO frame company here in the US, offers steel distance pieces (not cheap).

Jim

 

Edited June 2, 2020 by Tr4aJim

[stuart]

Well thats definitely not the same as mine, I have a plate on top of that section and my "U" bolts definitely are either side, I can`t get to it at the moment but heres a couple of stock pictures from a while ago.

Stuart.

Edited June 3, 2020 by stuart

[cbxman]

Just had look at my 4A Rigid.  It looks like Jim's.  Is this something to do with Girling/Lockheed axles.......?

[Tr4aJim]

Stuart, yes you had shared that picture with me, but unfortunately it’s difficult to see that inner U bolt. However, the bump stop plate on yours does appear to have a different shape than mine. Maybe Jerry is on to something regarding different axle suppliers.

Jim

[Tr4aJim]

FYI - Here’s another example I found on Steve Maas’ web site:

http://www.nonlintec.com/tr4a/

Jim

 

[Andy303]

Mine is exactly like Jim's and Steve's pictured above.

Stuart your spacer block looks the earlier TR4 type with the mounting flange offset to one side and was originally mounted withe the flange to the front to accommodate the TR4 shock link.

The SPC lists those type of spacer as RH and LH with different parts numbers, so they must be "handed", whereas there is only one type listed for the TR4A SRA. That spacer has the flange in the center and is interchangeable either side.

The mounting plate or perch on the bottom of your axle tube looks like a nice thick U-channel, much more substantial than the one on my car and others I have seen elsewhere. Perhaps your axle was from a TR4 modified to work with the TR4A? Dare I ask if your VIN starts with CT or CTC?

[stuart]

16 hours ago, Andy303 said:

Mine is exactly like Jim's and Steve's pictured above.

Stuart your spacer block looks the earlier TR4 type with the mounting flange offset to one side and was originally mounted withe the flange to the front to accommodate the TR4 shock link.

The SPC lists those type of spacer as RH and LH with different parts numbers, so they must be "handed", whereas there is only one type listed for the TR4A SRA. That spacer has the flange in the center and is interchangeable either side.

The mounting plate or perch on the bottom of your axle tube looks like a nice thick U-channel, much more substantial than the one on my car and others I have seen elsewhere. Perhaps your axle was from a TR4 modified to work with the TR4A? Dare I ask if your VIN starts with CT or CTC?

The one fitted to mine is exactly how it came from the factory and when I got it more than 26 yrs ago it had never been dismantled and the numbers stamped on the casing is the same as the chassis number which is a CT number, its a matching numbers car. The distance blocks arent handed and are original.

Stuart.

[Tr4aJim]

Hmmm, that is a mystery. I looked through Bill Piggot’s book but there was nothing helpful. Seems like there’s not much data on the SRA cars. I’ll try some more digging and see if I can find any other info.

Jim

[stuart]

1 hour ago, Tr4aJim said:

Hmmm, that is a mystery. I looked through Bill Piggot’s book but there was nothing helpful. Seems like there’s not much data on the SRA cars. I’ll try some more digging and see if I can find any other info.

Jim

There is very little documentation thats correct though as they all went to your side of the pond originally there should be a fair few to cross reference there.

Stuart.